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REVIEW – Smartwool Merino Baselayers by the CGR UK Team
17 January 2011, 6:24 pm

With winter raging on (well it was until now) the CGR UK team test a range of wool baselayers from Smartwool to see how ‘smart’ they really are…

Midweight NTS Zip T by Dave Sarkar I have used Smartwool socks on my Stubai Glacier Tour in the summer and swear by them, so I was very keen to see if the Midweight NTS 1/4 Zip T matched their performance…  

Smartwool Men's Midweight NTS Zip T Rating (out of 5)



Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £69.95

 

I could quite happily live in this top, it feels like cotton against the skin and I have worn it every day (not for the entire day mind) for 10 days now and I still can’t get it to smell of anything other than my deodorant.

The top is a quarter zip, 250g/m2 , long sleeved, superfine merino wool t-shirt and I found it a very versatile baselayer, better for me than a crew neck as I could zip the collar up when stationary and vent it when on the move. I wore it running, snowshoeing, rock climbing and as a pproper baselayer for winter climbing and it performed very well in all those activities.

The Midweight NTS features set-in sleeves and shoulder panels that  eliminated shoulder seams and flatlock stitching which eased the chafing,  especially when I was carrying a pack loaded with winter kit. When the  top was damp with sweat, it dried out very quickly and then felt fine to  climb in. Ideally though, I found it best if I walked in with a  different top on, and then changed into this before climbing. Supreme  comfort and snugness was what I covered myself in, when layered up with  fleece and soft-shell top I never noticed I had it on, especially in the  pub at the end of the day. I’ve worn some tops that smell so badly I  can’t even talk to myself, let alone offer to buy a lady a drink and  recall tales of bravery!

Smartwool Men's Midweight NTS Zip - perfect for high aerobic activities.  

Strangely I’m a medium in all clothing, except baselayers where I’m a large. Advice from Smartwool was that they sized their products on the large size so I got a medium, this fitted very well and although athletic wasn’t too tight a fit. More advice on the box stated that they are made slightly longer to allow for some shrinkage in the wash, but I didn’t really notice any shrinkage if I washed it on a wool wash cycle with Stergene or other gentle soap.

On the plus side I really loved the sleeves which were easy to roll up above the elbows aiding venting and for psyching up! This did mean that the sleeve cuffs felt a little baggy and loose around the wrists, but that didn’t detract from the performance, they would also feel a little short for people with a positive ape index. Another down side was the small zip pull, I would have liked to have seen it slightly bigger to make it easier to use with gloves on.

Conclusion  

A great midweight top with all performance of a synthetic baselayer and non of the stink! It’s super snug and feels great against the skin, I loved the sleeves which were easy to roll up when the going got tough. They need to be a little longer though if you’re tall (then again, it’s a small price to pay for being able to cruise all those reachy boulder problems!).

Lightweight NTS Zip T by Kevin Avery Smartwool describe the Lightweight NTS range as being great for those who run a little hot… Smartwool Lightweight NTS Zip T Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £59.95

I’ve used my Lightweight NTS zip top for a little over 2 months now for activities including running, ice/mixed climbing, ski touring, bouldering and walking in the hills. I really like it’s versatility as a layering piece and it has quickly become the staple part of my layering system. I found it comfortable worn next to the skin with no chafing, itching or uncomfortable seams. It is cut long enough so that it doesn’t ride up when tucked into my legwear (it’s amazing how many companies get this wrong!) and the sleeves are also long enough so they don’t turn half-mast when my arms are above my head! I tested a size small and this is my usual size in most brands. I have found very limited shrinkage after washing the top…just follow the manufacturer’s instructions, no boil washing!

The zipper on the front provides ventilation on warmer days or when you are exerting yourself on walk-ins or during long periods “skinning” up hill. This is also useful for aerobic activities such as running and I’m sure it will be invaluable in the warmer summer months. When stationary you can zip it up to the neck, providing warm snugness. I have found the Lightweight NTS to be adequate on its own for strenuous walk-ins or runs when the wind has been absent, but I’d add a lightweight windproof such as Marmot’s Ion top on windier days. I’d then remove the windproof for climbing, add a mid-weight top such as a Patagonia R1 then a shell layer over the top. Under my other layers, the Lightweight NTS felt so comfortable I could easily have forgotten I was wearing it! Surely a good sign? I agree with the criticism of the zipper tab on mid-weight top though and would like to see a more glove friendly zipper tab on the Lightweight top as well.

Having walked in to Creag Meagaidh in my Smartwool  NTS I layered a thin fleece and softshell jacket over the top for the route and stayed comfortably warm and dry all day! In terms of breathability I have found the NTS to wick moisture at a satisfactory rate during all of my winter pursuits. I still get the customary damp back when carrying a pack on grueling walk ins but nothing is going to stop this other than perhaps getting your mate to carry both packs! I will be interested to see how it fairs during the warmer months though as in the past I have found wool products to be best in the colder months but then gone back to synthetic layers in summer when I have found them to offer superior moisture transportation. Smartwool disagree with this so we’ll have to wait and see! When damp with sweat though, it certainly dries quickly enough.

On the subject of odor, I wore this top for an 8 day period in the Alps over new year and I never noticed any lingering bad smells…I’m sure my climbing and skiing partners would have brought it to my attention too! Oh, and there was no ten metre cordon around me in the pub later either, before you ask!

Conclusion All in all I’ve found the Lightweight NTS T to be a comfortable and warm base layer. I like the cut, length of body and sleeves, warmth to weight it offers and the breathability. I’d like to see a more glove friendly zipper tab but other than that, it’s a great piece of kit.

• Visit the Smartwool website for more information on NTS baselayer products as well as information on the benefits of wool
• Smartwool is distributed in the UK by Timberland UK Ltd. Contact them via phone: 01753497190 or email: Europe@smartwool.com for UK stockist information

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar
30 January 2011, 6:00 pm

Dave looking very happy on top of Gable Crag, Winter 2010 Work’s been pretty hectic lately, way too much of it and definitely not enough play. Kev seems to be doing fine with great tales of winter adventure; he’s young, single and hungry! I finally got some time free and decided to head over to Almscliffe, a gritstone crag, famous in Yorkshire for its ferocious routes and outstanding bouldering. On the way over I suddenly felt really happy, I hadn’t actually got to the crag but the anticipation of being there was very pleasurable.

 There’s lot’s of happiness talk about at the moment, it’s even reached the Prime Minister’s ear. We’re not happy and the he’s going to do something about it! I doubt it, happiness is a very real, personal and intense emotion and it’s very different for each and every one of us. Happiness for some is money, for others sex and for others it’s experiences. These are, of course, emotions at the radical end as relentless pursuit of one is obsession and is definitely not healthy. Research has shown that happiness is a combination of factors; to define it you need to strip out the human basics of food, shelter and sex. We have an abundance of these in the west (OK, we may not have an abundance of sex, but as my mum used to say to me ‘there’s plenty of fish, you just need to go fishing more often’). Strip these out of the happiness equation and you have three headings to ponder.

Pleasure: nailing the redpoint, topping out on the boulder problem you’ve been trying all winter, talking about that Grade V ascent in the pub, basking in the sun on the summit. These are all pleasure activities.

Challenge: this goes without saying: trying that boulder problem time and time again. Falling off and working out new sequences for your redpoint. Gritting your teeth and fighting the gnarly spindrift on Point 5 Gully. Planning for a successful Alpine ascent or training your butt off down the gym all winter. These are all challenge events, they may not feel like happiness when they are happening, but you are fully engaged.

Meaning: this is a big ask, it’s all about contribution and belonging. It could be participating in BMC area meetings, doing stuff for your Climbing Club; enjoying crag clean ups;  helping mates get into climbing and just generally just being part of the climbing scene. It could even mean you being an enthusiastic forum user and ethics defender (say no more!).

Happiness lies in a combination of all three, when we are engaged in all three we enter a ‘flow’state. This is where we are operating at peak performance, we have all experienced it somewhere, our first lead, leading the Rogue pitch on Point 5; cruising the red point and crushing the boulder problem. The problem is it doesn’t happen very often so is hard to pin down. So it’s worth finding time to develop the state. Well thanks to Rana Betting of www.climbingpsych.com we can train to achieve it, she advocates:

Having clear goals (i.e. get to the top of the climb…).

The activity is set up to give you immediate feedback (i.e. popping off of a climb or successfully making it to the top is definitely immediate feedback).

There being a balance between the level of challenge and your level of skill.

Having a high degree of concentration and focus.

You have a sense of control over the activity

You become so absorbed in what you are doing that you experience a loss of self-consciousness (as in worrying, am I doing this technique right?), time flies by (wow, I can’t believe we’ve been on this route for an hour!) and your focus of awareness is narrowed to only the activity itself (you’re not thinking about bills you need to pay or the drama you had with your sig. other last night).

It’s fun and rewarding! (This one is important. Otherwise, why climb?)

I would also like to add that although we spend a lot of time planning and thinking about future climbing adventures in far away places happiness is often to be found closer to home. Oh and the crag? It was bloody freezing, but I was happy  Thanks Rana.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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BLOG: Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar
30 January 2011, 6:00 pm

Dave looking very happy on top of Gable Crag, Winter 2010 Work’s been pretty hectic lately, way too much of it and definitely not enough play. Kev seems to be doing fine with great tales of winter adventure; he’s young, single and hungry! I finally got some time free and decided to head over to Almscliffe, a gritstone crag, famous in Yorkshire for its ferocious routes and outstanding bouldering. On the way over I suddenly felt really happy, I hadn’t actually got to the crag but the anticipation of being there was very pleasurable.

There’s lot’s of happiness talk about at the moment, it’s even reached the Prime Minister’s ear. We’re not happy and the he’s going to do something about it! I doubt it, happiness is a very real, personal and intense emotion and it’s very different for each and every one of us. Happiness for some is money, for others sex and for others it’s experiences. These are, of course, emotions at the radical end as relentless pursuit of one is obsession and is definitely not healthy. Research has shown that happiness is a combination of factors; to define it you need to strip out the human basics of food, shelter and sex. We have an abundance of these in the west (OK, we may not have an abundance of sex, but as my mum used to say to me ‘there’s plenty of fish, you just need to go fishing more often’). Strip these out of the happiness equation and you have three headings to ponder.

Pleasure: nailing the redpoint, topping out on the boulder problem you’ve been trying all winter, talking about that Grade V ascent in the pub, basking in the sun on the summit. These are all pleasure activities.

Challenge: this goes without saying: trying that boulder problem time and time again. Falling off and working out new sequences for your redpoint. Gritting your teeth and fighting the gnarly spindrift on Point 5 Gully. Planning for a successful Alpine ascent or training your butt off down the gym all winter. These are all challenge events, they may not feel like happiness when they are happening, but you are fully engaged.

Meaning: this is a big ask, it’s all about contribution and belonging. It could be participating in BMC area meetings, doing stuff for your Climbing Club; enjoying crag clean ups;  helping mates get into climbing and just generally just being part of the climbing scene. It could even mean you being an enthusiastic forum user and ethics defender (say no more!).

Happiness lies in a combination of all three, when we are engaged in all three we enter a ‘flow’state. This is where we are operating at peak performance, we have all experienced it somewhere, our first lead, leading the Rogue pitch on Point 5; cruising the red point and crushing the boulder problem. The problem is it doesn’t happen very often so is hard to pin down. So it’s worth finding time to develop the state. Well thanks to Rana Betting of www.climbingpsych.com we can train to achieve it, she advocates:

Having clear goals (i.e. get to the top of the climb…).

The activity is set up to give you immediate feedback (i.e. popping off of a climb or successfully making it to the top is definitely immediate feedback).

There being a balance between the level of challenge and your level of skill.

Having a high degree of concentration and focus.

You have a sense of control over the activity

You become so absorbed in what you are doing that you experience a loss of self-consciousness (as in worrying, am I doing this technique right?), time flies by (wow, I can’t believe we’ve been on this route for an hour!) and your focus of awareness is narrowed to only the activity itself (you’re not thinking about bills you need to pay or the drama you had with your sig. other last night).

It’s fun and rewarding! (This one is important. Otherwise, why climb?)

I would also like to add that although we spend a lot of time planning and thinking about future climbing adventures in far away places happiness is often to be found closer to home. Oh and the crag? It was bloody freezing, but I was happy  Thanks Rana.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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BLOG: Ben Nevis Mixed Action by Kevin Avery
2 February 2011, 6:18 pm

Happiness is a 300 mile drive… Kev Avery and Adam Lincoln happy to be enjoying awesome views on Ben Nevis after topping out on Darth Vader, 29/1/2011 (Copyright Adam Lincoln) Weekends are a mission, a mission up North usually to Ben Nevis or the Cairngorms. If I’m lucky the Lakes will be in nick and then we get the luxury of a shorter drive but since the Christmas bout of Arctic weather it’s been pretty disappointing in that neck of the woods and Scotland it has had to be. Monday at work and I’m more tired than I was on Friday, at the end of my working week, but that’s probably because the weekend goes something like this:

Friday 3 pm: finish work and drive 300+miles

Saturday 4.30am: get up and walk for 3 hours, climb all day, walk out.

Sunday: repeat the above or ski (harder than climbing but more of a lie in!), long drive home, sleep

During the week I’m teaching, catching up on sleep, training and…getting psyched for the weekend! The last couple of weekends have followed this pattern, In fact since the end of December I’ve spent only one weekend at home! It’s 100% worth it though. In his latest blog post, CGR UK co-editor, Dave Sarkar asks the question: “Does climbing make you happy..?”

So to answer Dave’s question here are a few images from the last couple of trips to the Ben, I’ll let you make your own mind up!

Chris Reid, leading steep ground on Sioux Wall VIII 8, Ben Nevis 22/1/2011 (Photo Kev Avery) Kev Avery belayed by Chris Reid on Sioux Wall VIII 8, Ben Nevis (Copyright Victoria Crookes). The mixed climbs around Number 3 Gully have been in superb condition over the last couple of weeks. All of the classics have had ascents and the hard additions of Apache VIII 9 and To Those Who Wait IX 9, have both had second ascents. Standards are most definitely on the up. An unknown climber enjoys Winter Chimney, V 5 on Ben Nevis, 29/1/2011 (Photo Kev Avery) Kev Avery leading pitch 2 of the Ben Nevis classic, Darth Vader VII 8, climbed with Adam Lincoln on 29/1/2011 (Copyright Adam Lincoln) Kev Avery about to enter the chimney proper near the end of pitch 2 on Darth Vader, VII 8, Ben Nevis (Copyright Adam Lincoln) Kev Avery leading the crux pitch 3 of Darth Vader, VII 8 on Ben Nevis (Copyright Bob Wightman) Winter Conditions and Weather Links

• For Lakes conditions check out The Epicentre Blog
• For a range of reports and conditions links try TheFrontPoint
• Needlesports: A great round up of winter conditions links, blogs, weather and the crucial SAIS forecasts.
• UKClimbing.com: Winter logbooks and forum

Climbing Kit

• Black Diamond Fusion axes
• Petzl Dart crampons
• La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme boots
• Black Diamond Xenos Harness
• Metolius Inferno Wiregate quickdraws x18
• Wild Country Rocks 1-10x 2 sets
• Black Diamond wired hexes
• Black Diamond Camalots 0.5 to 3
• Black Diamond ATC Guide
• Assortment of slings and screwgates
• Petzl Meteor III helmet
• Beal 8.5mm x 60m ropes – dry treated

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Base Layer Top
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.

• For more information about Arc’teryx base layers, visit the Arc’teryx website
• For UK stockist info contact Big Stone

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Neck Base Layer Top
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.

• For more information about Arc’teryx base layers, visit the Arc’teryx website
• For UK stockist info contact Big Stone

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Gear News – Patagonia London Flagship Store
18 February 2011, 1:07 pm

Summer 2011 sees the highly anticipated opening of Patagonia’s first UK flagship store! The Patagonia store, Hathersage, Peak District UK  

Ideally situated in the heart of London, Patagonia is proud to announce the opening of its first UK Flagship store in Covent Garden. With 2,500sq ft of retail space, the store will be a showcase for the full Patagonia offering from core technical alpine and ski/snowboard products, to Patagonia’s renowned lifestyle range and the new footwear collections. 

This will be a partner store in collaboration with Outside, who successfully opened Patagonia’s Hathersage store in the Peak District and continue to be passionate supporters of the brand. As with all Patagonia stores, the Covent Garden space was selected in keeping with Patagonia’s retail brief, to use historic sites and to preserve the integrity of the building.



This is certainly the case in Covent Garden, whereby this listed location was formally part of the Watney Combe & Reid brewery, founded in 1837, which produced the popular Watney’s Red Barrel beer. Furthermore, the basement of the premises formally housed the fruit and vegetables, which were stored ready for the Covent Garden market.  

Patagonia and Outside intend to work collaboratively with the architects to ensure sensitivity when working with the historical aspects of this unique space, which they hope will in turn be enhanced by the bespoke fixtures and fittings which are to be sourced. 

Robert Cohen, Patagonia’s VP of Global Retail comments;

“We want our stores to be gifts to their communities. Because we’re trying to create a living, breathing, version of the brand, we view the building as much a part of the story, as the products inside.”

??Patagonia’ s European Marketing Manager, Jonathan Petty adds;

“The owners of Patagonia, Yvon and Malinda Chouinard, have for many years wanted  to open a London store. We’re very excited to be opening in one of Europe’s premier cities, and hope this will continue to drive the fantastic momentum the brand currently has in Europe”??   The store opens Summer 2011.  

• Find out more about the Patagonia brand by visiting their website.    

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody; the ultimate climbing jacket?
22 February 2011, 7:50 pm

 The Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody – is it an improvement on the LT Hoody…? Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: ****

Price: £200.00

 

The Arc'teryx Atom SV Hoody - an ultralight, weatherproof mid layer.  

Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody – review by Climbing Gear Reviews UK In the summer of 2010 I reviewed an Arc’teryx Atom LT jacket for UKC http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2208

For that review I concluded that the only thing better would be an Atom LT Hoody, well since then I’ve looked hard at the LT hoody and I’ve now been using the new SV Hoody for the winter 2010/11 season.  The SV stands for severe weather and is described as their warmest and toughest midlayer garment, so is it fit for purpose? I’ll start with the technicalities:

The outer material is Gossamera, a superlight and compressible ripstop nylon; it had that satisfying checked pattern that inspires confidence in its durability. The Gossamera fabric is the same material that the Squamish is made from, Arc’teryx state that the fabric has an air permeability of 7 CFM. Which means that it’s pretty good as far as breathability is concerned, further wicking is provided by a Tricot lining at the armpit, this area was also uninsulated further enhancing the breathability, a very well thought out area and a great compromise to the Atom LT with its powerstretch inserts. In test I found the jacket very warm, too warm for aerobic work in normal UK winter conditions and I even had to take it off when soloing easy icefalls, the jacket did get damp through sweat but dried out very quickly, even stood still with just body heat.

Arc'teryx Atom SV Hoody -ideal for sports like snowshoeing or backcountry skiing. As well as a DWR the fabric has a light polyurethane coating on the inner face, which helps with water resistance. The fact that the fabric is air permeable means the PU coating is microporous, or discontinuous.  Arc’teryx said the coating was very thin and evenly applied by a fabric mill in Japan known for their coating technology. I found the jacket repelled light showers and snow easily, but soon got saturated in consistent rain and wet snow, the addition of a lightweight hardshell just made me overheat very quickly. If you run cold though, this would be a great combination as you could walk in just a baselayer, wear the SV Hoody to climb in and supplement it with a Paclite jacket when the going gets damp, wet or too windy.

The jacket was lined with a silver grey nylon to help with heat retention and the pockets were lined with one side of Tricot – I found this a little disappointing and thought that a jacket with this sort of pedigree could have provided a better tactile experience in the pockets. There was a zipped internal chest pocket on the left hand side I would have liked to see the addition of a large, inner mesh pocket for storing food, spare gloves etc, it would have really enhanced the belay style and added very little to the weight.

Arc'teryx SV Hoody -great for fast moving ice routes. The stitching was of the excellent quality you would expect with an Arc’teryx product, the sleeves are articulated and this helped reduced sleeve lift when making high axe placements. The sleeve cuff design is the same as the LT versions; I felt this is where the jacket was let down for climbers in my LT review and I still think that is the case. The cuffs are fine, in fact great with no gloves on as they are really tight fitting and help retain heat and keep your wrists warm, they also fit nicely with approach gloves on, especially silk, powerdry or merino gloves as I could easily take the jacket off and the sleeves slid over the gloves nicely. They were also fine with gauntlet style ice climbing gloves as they fitted well over the cuffs. The jacket was much more difficult to use with the more supple type of glove that I use for UK winter climbing, too bulky for the sleeve to go over and I always ended up turning the sleeves inside out at belays and changeovers.

The hood was excellent, it was easy to adjust with gloves on, except the ones that were inside the jacket which could prove tricky to find if you were caught out in a storm, as the lock was hidden in the collar. They were, however all very easy to use with the single strand and the great advantage of having the adjusting straps inside the jacket is there are no loose straps to whip your face to shreds in that raging gale. It easily accommodated my climbing helmet and was stiffened with a small, neat plastic insert.

The hood was brilliant, eay to adjust, really warm and plenty big enough for a helmet. The insulation is provided by 100g/m2 of Coreloft, this is a mixture of large and smaller polyester fibres, the larger fibres provide the loft and the smaller fibres boosting the thermal efficiency. The loft was excellent, always super buoyant and the jacket felt very warm due to the complete insulation (unlike the LT versions that have powerstretch side panels).   I loved the small details like the drop back hem, this clever little feature really helped retained the loft around the waist when the hem was cinched and the tiny internal collar to help keep wind and spindrift from the back of your neck, just the sort of excellent details you’d expect from Arc’teryx. The combination of Gossamera and Coreloft really meant that the jacket was highly compressible. It easily fitted into an Exped XS drybag and no matter how stuffed my pack was it squeezed into the smallest cavity, I even got into the lid pocket! Arc’teryx  do not advocate stuffing it into the inside pocket, as it is not designed for this, they say you should fold it into a sleeve; which worked perfectly well for storage into travel luggage, etc.

The main zip is a YKK Vislon and this seem to repel water very well and worked a treat in all conditions, even frozen. The pocket zips were standard YKK zips and also worked well, but are not waterproof; they all worked well with gloves. The articulated elbows and gusseted elbows meant that the jacket was good to climb in, there was very little ride with a harness on and I used it for winter climbing regularly where it performed faultlessly, even in the most foul of conditions. I was terrified of putting an ice screw through it mind and I don’t think it would last long at all if you were to wear it as your sole UK winter climbing jacket.

Perfect as a winter belay jacket for single pitch winter climbing in good weather. So, in conclusion, another superb jacket from one of the best manufacturers out there. Well designed with great features. My recommended uses would be as a warming layer on cold days where you are moving; skiing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and it can be used a climbing jacket. It would make an ideal rock climbing and summer alpine belay jacket and is also a great looking jacket for the winter commute. It is most definitely a big improvement on the LT Hoody.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in heart of Wales
5 March 2011, 12:42 pm

Llanberis Mountain Film Festival March 18th – 20th 2011

The Llanberis Mountain Film Festival, aka LLAMFF, is a celebration of the ‘mountain experience’ taking place over the weekend of March 18th – 20th in North Wales. Expect to see the finest films on exploration and adventure, culture and environment, and mountain sports from around the world. A stunning line up of speakers will also give you the chance to hear first-hand the stories that make the headlines including some from the perspective of behind the lens.Based at the foot of the iconic Llanberis Pass and Snowdon, the magnificent backdrop couldn’t be more appropriate, attracting as it does walkers and climbers all year round seeking their own  adventure.

LLAMFF promises to be an inspirational festival in an inspirational setting. The backbone of the festival is the international film competition together with the best films from the Banff Mountain Festival, but with so many speakers and other events in the programme you’ll always find the eclectic and unexpected at LLAMFF.

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to be an adventurecameraman at the top of your game then don’t miss Keith Partridge on the Saturday evening. Keith was one of the camera crew behindthe spectacular and current BBC series, The Human Planet. Keith’s behind the scenes stories and footage of ‘close calls’ will leave you in no doubt as to how far you sometimes have to push it to get thatshot. Mountaineer, Al Hinkes, the only Brit and one of only twelve people alive who have summited all the World’s fourteen 8000 metre peaks- the same number of people that have stood on the moon – is another adventurer speaking at LLAMFF who knows all about the drive and determination required to succeed at the highest level.

Since the first LLAMFF in 2002 it has become an annual festival and the main supporting sponsor once again is the premier outdoor clothing manufacturer Mountain Equipment. Vote for the best film and presentation and if you get it right then you could win a £300 Mountain Equipment voucher.

Festival highlights also include:

• Big screen HD (High Definition) experience.

• Andy Turner – With the second ascent of The Hurting (XI 11)under his belt this winter he knows what Pushing the Limits of Winter Climbing is all about.

• Paul Diffley – Climbers I’ve Shot and some Climbers I’d like to Shoot – Award winning cameraman behind Hot Aches Productions.

• Ian Parnell – British Style – A rollercoaster ride through the mountain life.

• Snowdonia 2050 – Think Question Time discussing the ecologyof Snowdonia in 2050 and balancing the needs of recreationand conservation.

• Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer – The Slackers Guide Reloaded – What drives their ambition to climb at the highest level?

• Family Fun – orienteering by Sprayway. Free kayaking,canoeing and climbing sessions (min. age 8 yrs) on the Saturday organised by the Outdoor Partnership. Photographic treasure hunt and competition for the youngsters.

• George Smith and Noel Craine’s Famous (Almost) Climbing Quiz on the Friday night.

• Mountain artists Andy Parkin and Rowan Huntley.

• ‘Hands on’ adventure sports injury workshops from Snowdonia Sports Medicine (Zac Larraman). Learn about Muscle Energy Technique with plenty of opportunity to quiz Zac about injury prevention and rehabilitation.

• Beacon Climbing master class and bouldering competition.

Weekend and session tickets are available now at Joe Brown (tel:01286 870327) and V12 Outdoor (tel: 01286 871534) or online at their websites. More info at http://www.llamff.co.uk/ and you can also follow the latest LLAMFF news on Facebook.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in the heart of Wales
5 March 2011, 12:42 pm

Llanberis Mountain Film Festival March 18th – 20th 2011

The Llanberis Mountain Film Festival, aka LLAMFF, is a celebration of the ‘mountain experience’ taking place over the weekend of March 18th – 20th in North Wales. Expect to see the finest films on exploration and adventure, culture and environment, and mountain sports from around the world. A stunning line up of speakers will also give you the chance to hear first-hand the stories that make the headlines including some from the perspective of behind the lens.Based at the foot of the iconic Llanberis Pass and Snowdon, the magnificent backdrop couldn’t be more appropriate, attracting as it does walkers and climbers all year round seeking their own  adventure.

LLAMFF promises to be an inspirational festival in an inspirational setting. The backbone of the festival is the international film competition together with the best films from the Banff Mountain Festival, but with so many speakers and other events in the programme you’ll always find the eclectic and unexpected at LLAMFF.

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to be an adventurecameraman at the top of your game then don’t miss Keith Partridge on the Saturday evening. Keith was one of the camera crew behindthe spectacular and current BBC series, The Human Planet. Keith’s behind the scenes stories and footage of ‘close calls’ will leave you in no doubt as to how far you sometimes have to push it to get thatshot. Mountaineer, Al Hinkes, the only Brit and one of only twelve people alive who have summited all the World’s fourteen 8000 metre peaks- the same number of people that have stood on the moon – is another adventurer speaking at LLAMFF who knows all about the drive and determination required to succeed at the highest level.

Since the first LLAMFF in 2002 it has become an annual festival and the main supporting sponsor once again is the premier outdoor clothing manufacturer Mountain Equipment. Vote for the best film and presentation and if you get it right then you could win a £300 Mountain Equipment voucher.

Festival highlights also include:

• Big screen HD (High Definition) experience.

• Andy Turner – With the second ascent of The Hurting (XI 11)under his belt this winter he knows what Pushing the Limits of Winter Climbing is all about.

• Paul Diffley – Climbers I’ve Shot and some Climbers I’d like to Shoot – Award winning cameraman behind Hot Aches Productions.

• Ian Parnell – British Style – A rollercoaster ride through the mountain life.

• Snowdonia 2050 – Think Question Time discussing the ecologyof Snowdonia in 2050 and balancing the needs of recreationand conservation.

• Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer – The Slackers Guide Reloaded – What drives their ambition to climb at the highest level?

• Family Fun – orienteering by Sprayway. Free kayaking,canoeing and climbing sessions (min. age 8 yrs) on the Saturday organised by the Outdoor Partnership. Photographic treasure hunt and competition for the youngsters.

• George Smith and Noel Craine’s Famous (Almost) Climbing Quiz on the Friday night.

• Mountain artists Andy Parkin and Rowan Huntley.

• ‘Hands on’ adventure sports injury workshops from Snowdonia Sports Medicine (Zac Larraman). Learn about Muscle Energy Technique with plenty of opportunity to quiz Zac about injury prevention and rehabilitation.

• Beacon Climbing master class and bouldering competition.

Weekend and session tickets are available now at Joe Brown (tel:01286 870327) and V12 Outdoor (tel: 01286 871534) or online at their websites. More info at http://www.llamff.co.uk/ and you can also follow the latest LLAMFF news on Facebook.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Punisher Gloves
10 March 2011, 10:26 am

Black Diamond have revamped thier Punisher Gloves for 2011, are they the ultimate winter climbing glove?   Black Diamond Punisher Glove – green is the new black.    If there is one item of winter kit sure to generate plenty of discussion on climbing forums it’ll be gloves. I personally have spent a small fortune on gloves and tried many different kinds of glove systems. One of the funniest being on a trip to Norway when I proudly displayed my £7.50 B&Q work gloves, I then had to endure the double humiliation of them wearing through on an abseil off Vermork Bridge and my hands being so cold on Rjukanfossen that I couldn’t unclip the screws off the rope to put them onto my harness. Not surprisingly, they were quickly relegated to, well, work gloves.

I had been using, quite successfully, for two seasons a glove system that comprised a leather outer and separate woollen inners. So I was quite excited when a pair of Black Diamond Punisher gloves arrived, would they make me change my current system, read on….

Double stitched reinforced thumb area, makes for a durable work area. The gloves are the mark 3 2011 gloves, they came in a ‘non conspicuous’ Lime Green, but also come in Black for those of you who prefer to be more discreet. The outer is made from Black Diamonds own BDry waterproof insert, which proved as effective as GoreTex or Event, this was topped with an tough, abrasion resistant shell.   The palms and work areas were made from goat leather and featured a double layer around the high wearing Thenar region (that meaty area at the base of your thumb). This was great for all kinds of rope work and gripping my axes, I have in the past worn gloves out in this region, especially on multiple abs when the gloves are wet. The leather also was capped around the fingertips for added durability. I have used the gloves for abs, belaying and even mixed climbing all winter and they have shown no signs of wear. They should easily last another season or two.

The wrist tab was also made of goat leather, this made for a beefy and easily adjustable tightening system and meant I could easily cinch the gloves tight and tuck them under my jacket sleeves for any technical work. The backs were padded using EVA foam (ethylene-vinyl-acetate, a tough foamed polythene) and were very good at protecting my hands for those types of moves where I’m reaching over ice bulges to place my axe in good ice at the back and even provided some extra warmth when plunging up those snowy approaches (did they stop the hot aches? Well no, but then nothing will when you’re plunging!). The pattern has reverted to the Mark 1 punishers horizontal bands, which provides a much better surface area. There was a middle finger tab for assisting in drying the gloves, this easily accommodated karabiners of all sizes. I found the gloves dried out really quickly using moderate heat as long as they were suspended using the finger tabs.

The inners have a 100g fleece inner, the spec said that the fleece was fixed and I assumed that the fleece was bonded to the inner. In fact it was fixed in the usual

Richie Allen, taking a breather on Sogni de Patagonia WI5  way: that is sewn into the finger tips and the base of the gloves. This is where I felt the gloves let me down a little; when I climb I often have to take the gloves off for very fiddly jobs such as getting the ropes though the belay plate and into the screw gate, or placing small wires. When I try to get the gloves back on with damp hands getting my little finger back in place can be a real pain when the inner has twisted slightly. This has happen on plenty of glove systems and happened with the Punishers. I fully understand that there can often be a feeling of slippage if the inner is not fixed to the fingers, so I guess that Black Diamond have opted for performance.

BD Punisher gloves - a great all round winter glove. Overall I feel the gloves are an improvement over the Mark 2 and it’s nice to have a choice of colour other than Black or Grey. The glove will fulfil most of your climbing requirements and are warm under all but the most extreme UK winter conditions; they are dextrous and durable and should last 2 or 3 seasons of normal abuse. They excel in mixed climbing situations where you will need the dexterity to place rock gear and removing ice screws, especially at that nervous point where the screw is about to come out and you terrified of dropping it. Are they the ultimate winter glove….. yes, they probably are, but you’ll need a pair of warmer gloves for belaying and seconding unless you have boilers for hands. A great improvement on a classic glove.

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Gear News – Fourth Ice Climbing Festival in Pontresina, 26th-27th March 2011
16 March 2011, 9:31 pm

The longest and highest ice competition in Europe The Ice Climbing Festival in Pontresina, Switzerland will take place on March 26 th and 27th for the fourth time. Ice climbers from all over Europe will meet at the tail end of the season for this special event. There will be a speed-climbing competition on the man made icefall below the gondola in the Diavolezza ski area, at 2800 meters above sea level in alpine terrain.



On Saturday 26 March 2011, there will be an impressive speed climbing competition on the man-made ice below Diavolezza. Teams of two will be competing over several pitches. Head-to-head, qualifying heats will be performed on one-pitch top roped climbs. The two fastest teams in each group will qualify for the finals. There will be two parallel top rope routes of about 100 meters. The team with the fastest combined time on both routes wins this one-of-a-kind speed-climbing competition.

The workshops on Sunday 27 March 2011 are open to all who want to try ice climbing for the first time or who want to pick up new tricks from some of the world’s leading ice climbing athletes. Top climbers Pietro dal Pra and Jack Müller will show their tips and tricks to small groups in a secure setting with mountain guides. Ice climbing equipment will be provided for testing all day.

In case of bad weather, the competition and workshops will be completely canceled. We decide on Wednesday, March 23rd 2011. The ice party takes place on Saturday night, in the “Talstation Languard Beizli” in Pontresina with a pasta dinner and a DJ for the music act; we‘ll celebrate anyway!

• The sponsors of The Pontresina Ice Climbing Festival are: Arc’teryx, Bergbahnen Engadin St. Moritz AG, Black Diamond Equipment AG, Engadin St. Moritz, Go Vertical GmbH, Graubündner Kantonalbank, Millet und Pontresina Tourismus.

• Find more information about the program as well as workshop registration and the competition at www.ready2climb.com.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Top
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.

• For more information about Arc’teryx base layers, visit the Arc’teryx website
• For UK stockist info contact Big Stone

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Glissade Gloves
21 March 2011, 10:31 pm

Are the Black Diamond Glissade gloves the best value all round mountaineering glove?

Rating (out of 5)

Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £49.99

Black Diamond Glissade Glove

For most climbers, glove choice is something of a nightmare. It’s impossible to find one pair that does everything perfectly. For winter climbing in the UK you need something dexterous yet warm, the former being particularly important on more technical leads. They also need to be waterproof as we’re not blessed with the cold, dry conditions they get in the Alps. Added to the mix, most gloves tend not to last much more than a season, particularly if you’re doing mixed routes and to top it all off, they generally cost a bomb.

So is there a glove out there that will do everything the UK winter climber and mountaineer requires it to without compromise? Well, to be honest probably not, but a few do try…

Recently Black Diamond suggested we test their Glissade glove, saying: “the Glissade is the quintessential winter glove and is our most versatile design.”

The Black Diamond Glissade Glove is perfect for skiing

The Glissade gloves I tested were men’s size Small. I felt that I was borderline Small/Medium when I tried them on so went for the Small option. I always size my gloves on the tight side as they usually stretch to give a neat and precise fit. This was the case with these. For climbing use there’s nothing worse than gloves that are too big. Floppy fingers and thumbs reduce dexterity and get caught in gear and karabiners. There was none of this with the Glissades. They fitted literally, like a glove!

I’ve used my Glissades all winter for mountaineering routes in the UK, snowy approaches, more technical ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Alps, as belay gloves and for skiing. They’ve handled all of these pursuits admirably but some better than others.

Heading across from the Aiguille Du Midi, the Cosmiques Hut behind, but finding the Black Diamond Glissade Glove a little warm for strenuous snowshoeing in the sun! As a ski glove I found the Glissade to be excellent, providing more than the warmth (provided by 100g of Thinsulate insulation) of their -1 centigrade rating and the BDry insert keeping my hands dry, combating moisture both inside and out. The gauntlet design fits very well over my jacket cuffs and the elastic cinch closure is easy to adjust and secure.

I actually found the Glissades to be a little too warm for extended periods of energetic activity such as skinning or slogging up to the Ben. For this I would normally choose a lighter weight softshell glove. However, as soon as it comes to skiing down hill or plunging your axe shaft into powder on steep approaches, the Glissades were perfect. In fact, these gloves are ideal for all round mountaineering situations.

As a technical climbing glove the Glissades work too. But I suppose this where they have their limitations too. For a glove of this warmth, dexterity is excellent and they are easy to get on and off (even with damp hands) due to the fixed inners. The low bulk means that you get good levels of feel when gripping ice tools or ski poles and they don’t pose any problems when handling karabiners, cams or wires.

When climbing, they performed best for me on pure ice routes (as opposed to mixed ground) but are not an out and out ice glove as they lack any knuckle or finger tip protection. They also don’t have the articulation (pre-curved hand shape) that something like the Specialist glove has. Saying this, I have actually climbed some pretty technical ground in these, such as the direct entry to Supercouloir on the East Face of Mt Blanc Du Tacul, and found them to perform very well. I never got cold hands either and it was a chilly February day with winds up to 60mph!

The main downside of these for more technical routes though is going to be durability, particularly on mixed ground. The Glissades don’t have leather on the fingertips so these are going to wear out pretty quickly if you are climbing a lot of mixed stuff. I normally do most of my technical climbing in Punishers or Specialists to be honest, but I wouldn’t discount these and I’ve now taken to carrying my Glissades as a spare pair as well.

 

The Black Diamond Glissade Gloves were more than up to the technical stuff too. Seen here in action placing gear on the M6 direct start to Supercouloir, Mont Blanc Du Tacul Conclusion So to round things up, the Glissade glove is the perfect glove to go for if you like to do a bit of everything in the mountains in winter. Black Diamond produce other gloves which will be better suited to each individual activity but that’s going to be a lot more money and a lot more pairs to carry than £50 for one pair of Glissades. This really is a top quality, all round glove at an excellent price!

• For more information about the Glissade glove and other Black Diamond products, visit the Black Diamond Website
• For UK stockist information contact First Ascent

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Gear News – Smartwool Baselayers
27 March 2011, 9:57 am

Stay Cool This Summer With Smartwool Merino wool clothing is a proven warm  weather option; it gives wearers an advantage by keeping the body’s  core temperature lower and more constant during exercise.

Smartwool Women's Micro Tank  

SmartWool® is designed to maximise  the inherent benefits of merino wool – temperature regulation, moisture  management and odour control whilst delivering maximum comfort through  fit, form and function.

SmartWool® Next-To-Skin (NTS)  baselayers are a wardrobe building block no matter what weather Mother  Nature delivers.  Summer 2011 introduces a SmartWool® year-round  layering system tested and inspired by the mountains with products  that answer the summer layering dilemmas taking into account weather,  geography and activity.

SmartWool® NTS baselayers come  in three weights for custom layering combinations.  Offerings range  from ultra-light, stand alone pieces for high performance in  the heat, to slightly heavier layers for active endeavours to serious  insulators.

Smartwool Men's Micro T  

Absorbing the moisture vapour away from  the skin SmartWool® NTS baselayers allow the body’s natural  cooling process to begin absorbing the vapour and passing it through  the fibre to the Thermal Mid Layer (TML), which effectively  then passes the moisture vapour through to the outer atmosphere.   The wearer stays drier and more comfortable and has maximum mobility  as a lot less bulk and an added bonus of more room in the backpack.

Highlights include women’s and men’s  Microweight Tee’s and long sleeved Crew’s, Microweight Zip T’s,  Sport NTS T’s and Crew Neck and Midweight Crew, Zip Neck and Bottoms.

• For more information visit: www.smartwool.com
• For stockist info call Smartwool on 01753497190
• Check out our Smartwool product reviews here and here

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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The North Face comes to Liverpool! – Gear News
2 April 2011, 9:41 am

 



The North Face is to open a new store in Liverpool THIS month sees the opening of The North Face® store in Liverpool One, and to celebrate the high performance clothing and equipment brand’s arrival, L1 will become home to its very own The North Face® climbing wall.

On Saturday 16th April 2011, the climbing wall will be open to any fearless shoppers who wish to put their climbing skills to the test. The seven metre wall will be open from 10am until 6pm at Paradise Place, just doors away from the new The North Face® store on Paradise Street.

The North Face® climbing athletes, The Pou Brothers, will be on hand to offer their expert hints and tips plus tales of their most challenging expedition, The Hardest of The Alps. Each route on the wall will mirror a stage of this expedition and end in a prize. The best climbers of the day who complete the hardest route will win a climbing weekend for two. Other prizes will include The North Face jackets and footage of The Hardest of the Alps.

The wall will be positioned just a short walk from the new The North Face® store that is set to officially open on Thursday 14^th April 2011 from 9.30 am until 8 pm.

Francesca Pozzi, VP Retail Outdoor & Action Sport, The North Face® EMEA, said “As another The North Face® owned store in the UK, this is a fantastic addition to our retail portfolio. The aim of the climbing wall and The Pou Brothers is to really showcase the brand and bring it to life. It will be a fantastic day and something the whole family can get involved in.”

Bringing the brand’s own unique mix of style and performance to Liverpool One, The North Face® is widely recognised today as the world’s premier supplier of authentic, innovative and technically advanced outdoor apparel, equipment, footwear and accessories. Renowned for its innovation and exploration, The North Face® is also the definitive choice for elite mountaineers and serious outdoor athletes across the globe.

Pioneering technologies are a hallmark of The North Face®, as a result of the collaboration between the brand’s research, design & development team and its athlete team—the finest mountaineers, alpinists, climbers, skiers, snowboarders and endurance adventurers.

Moving forward, this unique partnership of designers and global athletes will continue to define the limits of what is possible and will embody The North Face® mission: Never Stop Exploring™.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Montane Atomic Stretch DT Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear Review
12 April 2011, 5:41 pm

      Montane Atomic DT Stretch – a great superlight climbing shell      Montane Atomic DT Jacket and Pants – a great lightweight hardshell combination.  Performance ***

Quality ****

Value for money *****

RRP  Jacket £160.00  Pants £85.00

There are plenty of lightweight hardshells out there these days; all the main manufacturers will have a lightweight shell in their product range so it was great when Montane asked us to review their lightweight offering. For those of you who may not have heard of Montane, they are a British company nestled away in God’s own secret – Northumberland. They were an early adopter of Event and you can often see plenty of climbers, walkers and mountaineers wearing their clothing.

Atomic jacket and pants - a great combination for when the clouds threaten. We were asked to review the Atomic DT Stretch Jacket and Pants and I reviewed them in a variety of climbing and mountaineering situations throughout the UK and Europe. They were an ideal set of waterproofs as I don’t wear a hardshell when climbing, preferring to climb in a softshell and then wear a hardshell when the couds threaten. Lightweight, then is the preferred hardshell system I use so the Atomic range fitted the bill nicely. They are both made using Entrant DT with the jacket being made entirely from Entrant DT Stretch and the pants from a mixture of DT Stretch and Storm fabrics. Entrant DT fabric is made by Toray Industries, a Japanese company that manufactures breathable fabrics. For the technically minded of you the fabrics have a 10 000mm Hydrostatic head and a breathability of 8000g/m²/24hrs, which is pretty breathable. It’s a 2.5 layer fabric, which has the outer fabric bonded to the membrane and has an enhanced DWR treatment, the membrane then has a printed pattern on the inner, this adds durability and reduces rubbing wear on the inner, it’s more flexible and lighter than a traditional 3 layer scrim. The garments are then manufactured in China to Montane specifications.

Not quite as small as a grapefruit - but not far off. The Jacket was athletically cut; nice and snug fitting, I did like the fitting which felt great under a harness, with no rise and no ballooning; it always felt tight fitting when climbing both rock and ice. Another nice feature about the cut was the minimal drop tail this again made it feel nice to climb in and I was very impressed with the athletic style of the jacket and how it performed in climbing situations. The hood was helmet compatible, but I did find that it was a little restrictive when the zip was fully closed, I had about 40^o sideways movement and plenty of upwards movement and there were times, when ice climbing that it did pose a minor irritation. Without a helmet the hood performed very well, it had a wired peak with a Scotchlite reflective logo on it. The volume adjuster and drawcords were easy to reach and use, even with gloves on. The drawcords were located lower down on the jacket and held in position with oversized end tags; this kept them from whipping around in windy conditions and was a nice, well thought out feature. It had a rollaway feature using hook and tape and although some people like these I found it a little superfluous, but it added little to the overall weight so I remain neutral on that one. The sleeves fitted well and felt good for climbing, there was little rise over the wrists and they fitted well with gloves, they were very easy to adjust with a rubberised tag and plenty of hook and tape. There was a large reflective logo on the arms that was easy to pick out with a headtorch. The zips were YKK Aquazips with the addition of a storm flap on both the main zip and the pockets. The main zip storm flap was further enhanced by hook and tape, this I felt was an overly technical feature and although it did aid the waterproofness of the jacket, it made it difficult to close the zip in climbing situations where the zip needed to be open and closed regularly – for instance taking gloves on and off and stashing them in the jacket. It was even further enhanced by fastening on the top and bottom, again an overly technical feature that I felt was unnecessary. The storm flaps on the voluminous pockets were also a problem when trying to access them with gloves on; the pockets were otherwise fine and easily held a BMC Mountain Map folded.

Great cut for ice climbing. Atomic Pants - adjustable for a variety of walking and climbing situations. The pants were again a great athletic fit and were excellent for climbing in. A combination of two fabrics Entrant DT Storm and stretchy seat and knee panels made from Entrant DT Stretch provided plenty of movement for those high mixed steps; movement was further enhance by the articulated knees. There was a two way ¾ length aqua zip that meant I could walk into a route and then put them on easily with my boots on a good sized storm flap provided that extra bit of waterproof security; on top of that there was good ankle adjustment provided by press studs on the hem. The waist was elasticated but Montane had cleverly thought to put on a static, lace drawcord that was adjustable each side; this was great and no matter how wet the pants became they never started sliding down my hips. I was a little worried that my crampon points would go through the lightweight materials, but that just made me more aware for keeping tight foot footwork – no bad thing there! There had extra studding on the hem that helped keep them tight against my boots.

Both the jacket and pants were quite breathable with no discernable difference to the other manufacturers on the market. I wore the jacket ice climbing with just a baselayer underneath and never really felt any more sweaty that if I was in a softshell. Obviously when it rained hard and I was walking uphill it couldn’t cope, but then again nothing else has either, once on the level though and in drier conditions it did dry out very quickly. I found both the jacket and pants very waterproof and although I have a few niggles about the storm flaps they actually did a great job a keeping me dry.

Easily stashed into the smallest space and delpoyed when the wind gets up. So in conclusion, a great all round set of lightweight waterproofs, ideal for those long mountain days where you may not be wearing a set of waterproofs all day but want a set stashed away ready to pull out when the clouds threaten or the wind gets up. The cut was great for both climbing and walking and the Entrant DT fabric was very waterproof and acceptably breathable. Great for winter mountaineering, summer scrambling and alpine adventures.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles – Climbing Gear Review
28 April 2011, 10:55 am

     

Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles  The perfect ultralight poles to help carry your rock climbing equipment. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for Money ***

RRP £149.95

Poles have come on a long way, there was a time when they were the preserve of grannies staggering around the local nature reserve. Only the truly initiated had the secret knowledge that not only was it more energy efficient to use poles, but their knees would probably last 10 year longer as well. Slowly poles have begun to gain acceptance amongst the younger rock climbers and hikers and now you can see them being used in all mountain environments (but do use two poles readers,it’s so much more efficient than one).

BD Pole evolution So how do they perform…firstly they are ultra light, really they are. A pair feels lighter than just one aluminium pole and much, much lighter than my Alpine CFs, the trusty CGRUK scales weighed one in at 125g that’s 125g lighter than an Alpine CF (half the weight); and they’re tiny too, the folded down size was 43cms, the Alpine CF was 64cms. Extended, I ordered the 130cm versions, they come in 110 and 120cms. You will need to think carefully as there is no adjustment and it’s worth remembering that the handle extends further, so try them fully extended for size. The handle is kept in position by a small button that pops out, this also cleverly locks the pole sections so it can’t collapse. The poles are held together by a strand of cord with 2 sections having a tough, flexible, plastic attachments holding the sections together. So, imagine a tent pole arrangement, held together with cord and the pole sections joined with tough, flexible plastic. When taken apart you end up with a Z shape; hence the Z -Pole tag line. Deployment is then very straightforward: slot the two sections together and extend the handle until the button pops out and clicks into place.

Easily stashed in your pack     The poles performed very well, they had more flex than my Alpine CFs, but they didn’t flex too much and carbon fibre is incredibly tough. There was a miniscule movement in the top section, at the handle extension, but it didn’t affect the performance in anyway. The handles were hardened foam and elliptical in shape and they felt very ergonomic and comfortable, I did, however, begin to get hotspots no my thumb in very hot weather. The wrist loops were made from a Tricot backed false suede, which was ventilated with mesh, a well thought out feature for racers and fast moving activities. Adjustment was by Velcro, which was nice and fast to adjust for gloves, etc. They were signed left and right and this allowed me to easily adjust the loops with the other hand when the loops were on my wrists, very neat. They were attached to the pole with cord which I thought could be problem later if the cord or loop began to wear; it didn’t look like it would be easy to fashion a field repair either. I was also concerned they might break when applying a lot of downward pressure, but it didn’t happen. Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles - responsive on steep, unstable ground The tip is fixed and comes with both rubber and carbide tips. They were easy to change, but I needed a Leatherman and I couldn’t un

do them by hand. The carbide tips performed great on dry and wet rock and the basket was also fixed to the tip, they also had a handy notch which allowed me snap the basket to the top section to make stowing more tidy. The fixed basket was a very disappointing feature as I rely on interchangeable baskets for summer and winter and even then I change between hard snow and powder baskets. So I feel they will be unusable in just the activity where I’m desperately trying to shave every gram I can from the weight of my pack. There is talk of a specific winter set, but it does mean that they are not a replacement for my Alpine CFs.

BD Ultra Distance - great for load carrying. So, a great offering from Black Diamond that will be perfectly suited to all your mountaineering activities. The pros: does what it says on the tin, they are ultra light and easily stow in most pack sizes. They performed great, felt really comfortable to use and are objects of desire. The cons: no adjustment, fixed baskets and the loop attachment system.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles – Climbing Gear Review
28 April 2011, 10:55 am

     

Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles  The perfect ultralight poles to help carry your rock climbing equipment. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for Money ***

RRP £149.95

Poles have come on a long way, there was a time when they were the preserve of grannies staggering around the local nature reserve. Only the truly initiated had the secret knowledge that not only was it more energy efficient to use poles, but their knees would probably last 10 year longer as well. Slowly poles have begun to gain acceptance amongst the younger rock climbers and hikers and now you can see them being used in all mountain environments (but do use two poles readers,it’s so much more efficient than one).

BD Pole evolution So how do they perform…firstly they are ultra light, really they are. A pair feels lighter than just one aluminium pole and much, much lighter than my Alpine CFs, the trusty CGRUK scales weighed one in at 125g that’s 125g lighter than an Alpine CF (half the weight); and they’re tiny too, the folded down size was 43cms, the Alpine CF was 64cms. Extended, I ordered the 130cm versions, they come in 110 and 120cms. You will need to think carefully as there is no adjustment and it’s worth remembering that the handle extends further, so try them fully extended for size. The handle is kept in position by a small button that pops out, this also cleverly locks the pole sections so it can’t collapse. The poles are held together by a strand of cord with 2 sections having a tough, flexible, plastic attachments holding the sections together. So, imagine a tent pole arrangement, held together with cord and the pole sections joined with tough, flexible plastic. When taken apart you end up with a Z shape; hence the Z -Pole tag line. Deployment is then very straightforward: slot the two sections together and extend the handle until the button pops out and clicks into place.

Easily stashed in your pack     The poles performed very well, they had more flex than my Alpine CFs, but they didn’t flex too much and carbon fibre is incredibly tough. There was a miniscule movement in the top section, at the handle extension, but it didn’t affect the performance in anyway. The handles were hardened foam and elliptical in shape and they felt very ergonomic and comfortable, I did, however, begin to get hotspots no my thumb in very hot weather. The wrist loops were made from a Tricot backed false suede, which was ventilated with mesh, a well thought out feature for racers and fast moving activities. Adjustment was by Velcro, which was nice and fast to adjust for gloves, etc. They were signed left and right and this allowed me to easily adjust the loops with the other hand when the loops were on my wrists, very neat. They were attached to the pole with cord which I thought could be problem later if the cord or loop began to wear; it didn’t look like it would be easy to fashion a field repair either. I was also concerned they might break when applying a lot of downward pressure, but it didn’t happen. Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles - responsive on steep, unstable ground The tip is fixed and comes with both rubber and carbide tips. They were easy to change, but I needed a Leatherman and I couldn’t un

do them by hand. The carbide tips performed great on dry and wet rock and the basket was also fixed to the tip, they also had a handy notch which allowed me snap the basket to the top section to make stowing more tidy. The fixed basket was a very disappointing feature as I rely on interchangeable baskets for summer and winter and even then I change between hard snow and powder baskets. So I feel they will be unusable in just the activity where I’m desperately trying to shave every gram I can from the weight of my pack. There is talk of a specific winter set, but it does mean that they are not a replacement for my Alpine CFs.

BD Ultra Distance - great for load carrying. So, a great offering from Black Diamond that will be perfectly suited to all your mountaineering activities. The pros: does what it says on the tin, they are ultra light and easily stow in most pack sizes. They performed great, felt really comfortable to use and are objects of desire. The cons: no adjustment, fixed baskets and the loop attachment system.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Boreal Krypto Rock Shoe-Climbing Gear Review
7 May 2011, 4:55 am

  

  The 2011 Boreal Krypto The 2011 Boreal Krypto Rock Climbing Shoe – the all new high perfomance rock shoe from Spain. When we reviewed the BorealStorm (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2606) in 2010 we were sceptical about the lacing system and concluded that the shoe was a good all round performer but the lacing system needed further improvement. When the new 2011 Boreal Krypto arrived I was glad to see that the lacing system had been dropped in favour of a more traditional velcro strap fastening. But had it retained an all round performer cachet?

Boreal Krypto - brilliant for Gritstone Well, spring had arrived and it was time to maintain and store the winter kit, dust off the trusty crash pad and start to think about power, balance and technique because the Grit was calling. So it was great to able to try the shoes out. As I said earlier they are a traditional Velcro fastening boot; the uppers are made from slip lasted split leather, so no smelly bacteria forming here, and feel very supple. Ventilation was further aided by an integral padded, meshed tongue. They are also unlined and I opted for a UK 7.5. My normal trainer size is a UK 8; having worn them for a while I have noticed some stretch and on reflection I should have got a size UK 7, I feel this would have helped maintain the performance fit. The stretch was limited by the addition of a rubber reinforcement band across the upper part of the toe, this also had the benefit of aiding with toe hooking and scumming. They were comfortable to wear climbing straight from the box and it was reassuring to note that the shoes came with a six month guarantee.

Boreal Krypto - great for heelhooking The toe profile was aggressively asymetric, but comfortable in a way they shouldn’t be and I was able to wear them for a reasonable period of time without desperately want to get them off my feet. The performance toe profile meant I was able to stand on small edges and I could feel the ball of my toe being pushed into the hold. They also smeared very well, especially on the grit as they were quite flexible with the half stiff midsole. I must say these were a superlative gritstone shoe and performed very well on all types of gritstone climbing – although they were uncomfortable in sustained fingercrack style cracks. At first I thought they might be alittle too soft but on limestone they also performed well, whether it was trading at Stoney, sport climbing at Malham and I found them great for steep climbing on crags like Kilnsey. I found them a little tight for multi pitch climbing, on a CGRUK trip to Tremadog I had to get them off my feet asap on any belay I could, so maybe not ideal for wearing all day on a long mountain route unless you sized them accordingly.

Great on steep limestone - Kilnsey, Yorkshire. The sole rubber is the well established FS Quattro and as long as the rubber is kept clean it will offer as good friction as any other rubber. The excellent IRS heel also meant that the shoe was very comfortable in the heel section. I do find the heels on Boreal shoes some of the best for my foot shape (narrow and bony) and I could feel the air being pushed out and a vacuum effect take over, brilliant for heelhooking.

They have proved to be a great sport climbing shoe and have performed well in all the climbing situations I have used them on. It’s good to see that Boreal have postponed the MiFit experiment and resorted to the tried and tested Velcro straps. The shape is excellent and the materials top class, many may not like the FS Quattro friction, but I found it fine for the routes I was doing.

Coped well with the polish at Stoney Middleton. So, a good offering from Boreal. A great, all round shoe that will perform in all climbing situations: from trad to bouldering, and are awesome on Gritstone routes. I have used these shoes all spring and they still feel great and have kept their performance intact. Finally, they were a little too soft for my weak climbing style and I would have liked them a little stiffer as I would have climbed better on very fingery wall climbs; but hey ho, I can always hang for longer on the fingerboard!



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Montane Flux Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
10 May 2011, 9:25 am



Montane Flux Jacket Montane Flux Jacket – a well featured piece of synthetic insulation for year round belay duties. Performance ****

Quality ****

Value for money *****

RRP  Jacket £130.00

These days many companies produce what they call a “belay jacket”. Something you can throw on over the top of your other layers on long winter belay stints or when holding your mate’s ropes for hours when he’s dogging his sport project. They’re also great as a bivi back-up and can even be regularly seen posing down the local pub. For UK use the most favorable filling is some sort of synthetic insulation such as Primaloft or similar. This means that even if it gets wet or damp it won’t lose any of it’s insulating capacity.

I’ve tried a lot of synthetic belay jackets over the last few years and have found, like with everything else, that some are better than others. I normally look for certain essential features. These are:

• helmet compatible, insulated hood
• adjustable cuffs (makes it easier to get on and off over layers)
• two big handwarmer pockets
• two way zipper (means you can pull it down to cover your upper bum and hips but still access your belay loop)
• mesh internal pockets
• cut large enough to go over the top of your base, mid and outer layers
• athletic enough to climb in if need be

So does Montane’s Flux Jacket tick all of these boxes? In short, yes it pretty muc does. It has velcro adjustable cuffs, a baffled two way zip, and two big zippered handwarmer pockets one of which doubles as a stuff sack but unfortunately there is no clip loop to allow you to clip it to your harness. It also features two zippered chest pockets though there are no internal mesh pockets which is a shame, as I find this simple feature very useful for stashing spare gloves etc and allowing them to dry. All the zippers feature zip tabs though which mean they can be operated smoothly whilst wearing gloves. All in all storage space is plentiful and getting the jacket on and off is easy.  The Montane Flux Jacket - a cosy synthetic belay parka   The Flux Jacket - perfect for UK cragging too The hood is also well sized and goes over a helmet. It features a wired visor which holds it’s shape well and a drawcord system which reduces the volume effectively and tailors the fit to your head/helmet but won’t have your eye out in high winds. My only gripe about the hood/neck is that when I put the hood up and zip the jacket all the way up to the neck, the neck feels tight and restrictive so I have ended up unzipping it and leaving my chin exposed to the elements which is not ideal. The chin does feature a soft and comfortable microfibre “beard guard” though which is nice when I do zip it all the way up.  In terms of cut and size I found the Flux jacket to be generally excellent. My test jacket was a size medium which fitted nicely over the top of all of my other layers but didn’t flap about in the wrong places if it actually came to climbing in it. The only thing I’d change was the neck.  So, does the Flux Jacket provide decent cold weather protection? The microlight Pertex outer is windproof and coupled with a DWR finish, repels light moisture well. It dries quickly when damp and is also proving to be quite tough. The layered 60g/40g Primaloft synthetic insulation provides great warmth for it’s weight. I was a little confused regarding the layout of the insulation so I asked Montane to explain things further:

“The arrangement of 60g and 40g is as follows:

· 60g in the back

· 60g in the crown of the hood

· 40g in the sides of the hood 

· 60g in the arms

· 40g in the cuff area

· 2 layers of 40g in the chest area, meaning that the front pockets are encased between these layers.”

The idea is that the thicker insulation is sited in key areas where warmth is needed most, such as the core and the lighter insulation is used elsewhere. This works really well and gives a jacket that is warm, pretty light and offers excellent mobility when on the move.

It’s not as warm as say a Patagonia DAS Parka, but then again with the Flux weighing in at 540g for a Medium, the DAS Parka is 250g heavier. Having used the Flux jacket as a belay jacket this winter in both Scotland and on day routes in the Alps I have found it to provide more than enough warmth. It certainly sits happily alongside other synthetic belay jackets of a similar spec such as The North Face Redpoint Optimus or RAB Generator Alpine jacket, providing a good level of warmth to weight. If I was going to be spending nights bivvying in the Alps in winter however, then maybe I’d opt for something warmer (and probably filled with down).

The Montane Flux Jacket - an athletic enough cut to climb in if need be but sized large enough to wear over the top of all of your other layers. Here Kev tests the jacket in Cogne, Italy.  So, in conclusion the Flux Jacket is a well featured, good quality belay jacket ideal for UK winter climbing, Alpine day routes and UK cragging. The length is good, as is the general cut. I like the hood and pocket configuration but would like to see a redesign on the neck as well as the addition of a couple of internal mesh pockets.  

• For further information visit www.montane.co.uk
• For stockist information visit the Montane Dealer page

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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The North Face Verto Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
24 May 2011, 9:54 am

The North Face Verto - ultra light, ultra compressible, windproof     The Verto Jacket from TNF – ultralight emergency shell where less is definitely more Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money ***

RRP £110.00

The Verto Jacket from The North Face packs down to next to nothing and weighs even less. My first impression when I got it out of the box was there is absolutely nothing to it…but that’s exactly the point. It’s not a jacket you’re going to wear everyday. It’s the sort of thing that’ll live in the bottom of your pack and you won’t even know it’s there. I mean it only weighs 93g! And yes you did read that correctly! It also packs down to little more than the size of a Mars bar too. Clip it to the back of your rock climbing harness for multipitch routes to give you that added piece of mind in case the weather turns nasty, but it certainly won’t hinder upward progress either.

Perfect lightweight wind protection for multipitch trad routes. The Verto Jacket is part of TNF’s Summit Series range of products. It is designed as a wind and water resistant (definitely NOT waterproof though) shell to take along with you on those days when you are out rock climbing, hiking or running and you want to go lightweight. Minimal kit for maximum speed. But some protection should the shit hit the proverbial fan. For this, the Verto Jacket is perfect!

So how is it so light without falling apart? Well, firstly it is constructed from 7D 24 g/m2 Pertex Quantum-100% nylon micro-ripstop, which is windproof, super-light and actually quite tough. It also repels the odd heavy shower too. TNF keep the weight down further by using simple elastic closures on the hem, cuffs and hood (yes 93g and it has a hood too!!) as well as a simple reverse coil, full length zip. Pockets are kept to a minimum also and consist of one on the chest, zippered and reversible, doubling as a stash pocket with clipper loop so you can attach it your rock climbing harness or the back of your pack. I just wonder how light this could be if the zips were dispensed with altogether? Obviously this would reduce the functionality a little but it’s just a thought.

So as it’s an emergency, stash-it-in-the-bag type of jacket, have I actually used it very much? And if so, what for? Well, so far I’ve used it for windy runs on the moors as well as for rock climbing. It’s saved me from misery whilst bouldering on blustery evenings and I’ve been glad to have it clipped to the back of my harness on multi-pitch trad outings too. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not going to be tackling grit or granite chimneys and coming off as the winner, but then you’re not going to be wearing it on this type of ground, often or even at all.

The North Face Verto Jacket, this ultralight wind protection was the only shell I had on a blustery evening on Barden Fell. Probably not the most durable top for regular grit wear though! In terms of the fit, The North Face describe it as athletic. They say that this is a neater cut and is designed to suit a more athletic frame! The fit of my Verto Jacket was the main gripe that I had with it but I think this is down to the fact it was the wrong size. I normally take size small and my sample Verto is a medium. I actually checked this out in a local store and this confirmed things. It’s a shame as I didn’t quite get to see it in all it’s glory because of the sizing. It was perfectly fine when climbing (although there was definitely some superfluous fabric, particularly on the arms), but flapped about intolerably when I was running, to the point that I actually took it off! Having tried the small size, I’m sure it wouldn’t have been the case with that. This isn’t a TNF criticism but one that applies to a number of big companies who seem to make all of their test samples in size medium! Take note please!

“At 93g for a medium, it is ridiculously light and packable so you’ve no excuse for leaving it behind.”

The hood is superb though and fitted brilliantly on the medium as well as the small. Simple elastic is used to give it shape and keep it on your head and whilst it is definitely a “under the helmet” design, it works perfectly like this. It doesn’t have any fixing point to stop it flapping about when it is down though, but this would add to the weight and didn’t cause me any problems. You can actually turn it down into the neck which was sufficient, forming a collar of sorts and minimising any flapping.

So in conclusion, The Verto Jacket is a minimalist hooded windproof and water resistant shell and it does this job very well. Carry it when hiking, running and rock climbing on those days when you want to keep weight to a minimum but might just get caught out by the weather too. At 93g for a medium, it is ridiculously light and packable so you’ve no excuse for leaving it behind. The downside is that it isn’t going to be hugely durable and at £110, less is most definitely more!

• Find out more about the Verto Jacket on The North Face website
• Buy the Verto Jacket from The North Face online store

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Marmot Hueco Pant – Climbing Gear Review
27 May 2011, 5:41 pm

 Marmot Hueco Pant in colour Tarmac. Also available in Dark Coal and Khaki Brown Marmot Hueco Pant – a top notch functional cragging pant that looks good too. Performance *****

Quality *****

Value for money *****

RRP  £50.00

Over the years I’ve developed a certain affinity with a couple of models of rock climbing trousers and struggled to deviate away from them. Don’t get me wrong, I have tried others, but I’ve never quite found anything that is as comfortable, well cut (even  wearing a harness) and looks the part (vain I know!). So does the Hueco Pant from Marmot change this?

Marmot Hueco Pant, great with a harness The Hueco Pant is Marmot’s latest addition to their cragging legwear range. With a name alluding to Texan bouldering mecca, Hueco Tanks they are certainly thinking in the right direction. Although don’t be fooled into thinking that this is a pant solely for boulderers. Marmot say that the trouser was developed using feedback from their own rock climbing athletes in an attempt to create a trouser that, “is ideal for climbers wanting a pant they can climb in all day without affecting performance.”

And this really is a great pair of trousers for all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering on the grit to multi pitch classics on Cloggy. They even fit in nicely down the pub afterwards. So what makes them so good?

Well, I have worn my Hueco Pants for bouldering on gritstone in the Yorkshire Dales and on Swiss granite. I’ve had them out sport climbing in Provence and tradding on Lakeland mountain crags. They’ve even fitted in nicely in trendy Chamonix bars (even if I didn’t!). As Marmot say, they really are an “all day pant.”

Marmot Hueco Pant, a superb cut offering great freedom of movement on those tricky high steps. The first thing that struck me about them was the fit. I am a 30 inch waist and regular inside leg and my test pair of pants is size small. They fit perfectly. The elasticated waist is comfortable, even whilst wearing a harness and this is aided by the soft lining on the inside of the waistband. The waist does also feature a drawcord for tweaking the fit but I’ve not really found this necessary.The cut is loose but not ‘MC Hammer’ loose, so you can move freely on those high steps or heel hooks but they don’t obscure your feet either. The diamond gusseted crotch provides extra freedom of movement on those high steps and bridging moves too, as do the articulated knees. Another thing I noticed about the crotch on the Hueco Pant is that it isn’t too low. Some other trousers I have tried recently have had a low crotch similar to what you would see on the jeans of some 13 year old youth with a skateboard. The problem with this is that as soon as you put a harness on the trousers are pulled up by about 2 inches and the fabric bunches up in all the wrong places.

“And this really is a great pair of trousers for all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering on the grit to multi pitch classics on Cloggy. They even fit in nicely down the pub afterwards.”

Durable enough for those gnarly knee-bars. I found that the leg length was pretty much spot on. The trousers didn’t look half mast whilst wearing trainers etc and they weren’t dragging along the floor either. When climbing there is a velcro cuff feature which allows you to cinch the hems in a little, but I actually prefer to turn them up a turn or two. This isn’t due to problems with the length though, it just seems to be a ritual I partake in with all my rock climbing pants! The fabric seems to tolerate this without you having to re-roll them every two minutes as well.

Speaking of the fabric, Marmot use a 65/35% polyester and cotton mix on the Huecos. This woven fabric appears to be very durable in the time that I have used them. It is super comfortable against the skin and very breathable which is a real bonus in warmer weather.  They also dry very quickly if they do get wet. The downside is that they are not the most wind resistant pair of pants out there so you might be better going for a lightweight soft-shell style if you are looking for something for prolonged use on UK mountain crags and definitely for Alpine rock routes. One final note about the fabric is that it is rated to sun protection factor (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) 30. This is definitely handy for the fair skinned amongst us!

So there you go, the Hueco Pants from Marmot have been officially accepted into my cragging legwear of choice! An excellent cut, high quality workmanship and durable and comfortable fabric. Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing and trad stuff too, although those spending lots of time on mountain routes may want something a little more windproof. They even look great in the pub afterwards. Top job Marmot!

• Find out more about the Hueco Pants on the Marmot Website
• MAIN UK STOCKIST: Go Outdoors Tel: 0845 0020 888 Web: www.gooutdoors.co.uk

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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The North Face Cipher Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
9 June 2011, 4:53 pm

 

TNF Cipher Hybrid Jacket The new 2011 TNF Cipher Hybrid Jacket - a mixture of materials makes for a good all round mountain jacket. Performance ****

Quality*****

Value for money ****

RRP £150.00

The North Face, the iconic brand that climbers love to ‘dis’. It is worth noting though that although you may see members of the general public strolling around the park in TNF down jackets and students wearing TNF day packs, a quick browse through the catalogue will quickly reveal the wealth of technical clothing that is purely dedicated to climbers, hikers and runners. One of the reasons I’ve always liked TNF is the sizing, it just seems to be one of those companies whose clothing fits me just right, the leg length is right, the arm length also good, so I’ve been a fan for a while and have owned many items.

 

A great fit allows super climbing freedom This review is for The North Face Cipher Hybrid Jacket, the new 2011 hybrid softshell jacket made from a mixture of Gore Windstopper and TNF’s own Apex Aerobic softshell fabric, which is very light and stretchy. The Cipher jacket has been around for a year or two now and the hybrid is an extension of the range; made more for 3 season climbing and mountain activities, than as a burly winter garment. So let’s get down to details.

 

The fabrics were good combination for a hybrid, the Windstopper fabric was nice to the touch, very windproof and shed light showers very well. It took a while for water to get through in more sustained rain, but the leakage was through the Apex Aerobic becoming saturated, the only leakage through the Windstopper was through the pocket zips. The jacket is part of the Summit Series and felt up to the job of regular outdoor climbing use. There was the usual TNF embroidered logos on the chest and shoulder blade, with Summit and Windstopper logos embroidered on the arm and waist. It looked and felt a quality item.

The North Face Cipher Hybrid-a great cut for climbing The cut was athletic but didn’t hug too much, especially at the armpits which often pose a problem for me (all those years of yarding up and down Bachar ladders). I received a medium and with my normal size being a 38-40” chest it fitted nicely. It was great for wearing under a harness and wasn’t too long so didn’t get caught up with carabiners and other hardwear; it did have a hem cinch which made it even better so I can’t foresee any annoying holes developing at the waist section. There was minimal rise when my arms were fully extended for reachy holds and there was little ballooning in the chest area – I have seen a real improvement in this area from most quality manufacturers and it’s nice to see the major players addressing these problem areas in the cut.

 

The Gore Windstopper extended over the shoulders, the rest of the arms being Apex Aerobic. At first I couldn’t fathom out why they had put the Apex Aerobic material at the arms as these are not really a high sweat area, but it did prove an advantage when I needed to pull the sleeves up, it would have been better to have a slightly wider cuff as climber’s forearms are larger than the ergonomic average (or at least they should be!). The Apex Aerobic material is a woven softshell so wasn’t as windproof as the Windstopper and there were days when my arms were cold, especially on very windy days when I stopped for a break and the sweat cooled down. The cuff closure was hook and lace, at first glace I thought the hook was Hypalon but on closer examination it was a plastic moulded piece with TNF logos. This I thought was a potential flaw in the sleeve design and could affect the performance when filled with snow or dirt – I should add however, that it performed well in the activities I was using it for. The Apex Aerobic fabric extended under the armpits (thus eliminating the pit zips) and down the sides of the jacket, the fabric performed very well in high aerobic activities such as hiking uphill. It also dried out very quickly, remained supple, left no sweat residue and didn’t smell after several days use.

 

The pockets were voluminous,they easily swallowed up a laminated OS map, plus whatever else I wanted to throw in them. They were easily accessible when wearing a harness or pack waist belt and had good functioning zips that were easy to use with gloves on. There was no Napolean pocket which I thought was a serious flaw, as there was no inside pocket either. These pockets are very useful for stashing energy bars, topos, hats and even your Blackberry for taking that all important business call mid crux. The main zip worked well, smooth and snag free, weather protection was enhance with an inner storm flap.

The huge pockets easily swallowed a laminated OS map.  The hood was made from Apex Aerobic and was the usual elasticated TNF hood. It fitted nicely under a climbing helmet and because of the stretchy fabric fitted over the helmet too, very handy for those windy belays. It had a one handed volume adjuster, but no peak. A combination of hood and baseball cap kept most showers but my head did eventually get wet through saturation. The collar and chin guard were micro fleece and the whole set up felt snug when zipped up.

 

So, a great technical jacket from The North Face, suitable for all my mountain adventures: from rock climbing through to mountain days out. It has quickly become a staple item of clothing for all my climbing days out. I felt that the addition of a Napolean pocket and extending the Windstopper fabric down the forearms would have made it perfect. And the company that puts it’s strapline never stop exploring on the fly of my pants is genius!



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK

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Sprayway Crux Windstopper Jacket – Mountain Gear Review
13 June 2011, 4:36 pm





Sprayway have been making outdoor garments since 1974 in Manchester. They are currently based in Hyde, Cheshire and although they have their own pedigree and unique identity they have close links with Mountain Equipment and Ron Hill. We met the marketing team at the Llanberis Film Festival earlier in the year and they came across as keen and passionate about all things outdoors. We were a little hesitant to begin with about the products that Sprayway could offer our readers, but a browse through the catalogue soon dispelled our fears. There was plenty of kit under the Sprayway banner that climbers and mountaineers could use from softshell jackets through to family tents (for that all important Euro road trip).

We opted to test the Crux jacket as we felt this satisfied the CGRUK criteria of a garment that would be useful for a variety of mountain activities; hence the Mountain Gear Review category. The crux jacket has been in the Sprayway range for over 10 years and has been a tried and tested piece so it was good to put it through its paces.

The cut gave plenty of room for easy climbing. The jacket is marketed as a durable all day fleece suitable for all mountain conditions. The main body material is Gore Windstopper Fleece, this has been tried and tested for many years now and has proved it’s pedigree as a tough, all weather fleece material. The whole jacket has a tough, durable look to it with Taslan reinforcement in high wear areas such as: shoulders, elbows, forearms and waist; all areas where rucksack wear can damage a fleece very quickly. The Windstopper fleece is a three layer fabric combining a lightweight fleece, bonded to a breathable Gortex membrane and substantial screed lining that helps wicks sweat though the membrane. The concept is very straight forward, the lining disperses the sweat through the membrane and the fleece wicks it further along it’s fibres to evaporate. Taslan is a Du Pont textile that is a very durable nylon used in a variety of outdoor materials.

 

The jacket performed well in almost all the activities I tested it in, it only let me down during technical rock climbing when I found it a little bulky, this was more down to the cut than the material. Talking of the cut, I was sent a Medium, I’m usually a 38-40” chest and I found the jacket generous in size, the arm lengths were regular and the overall length long, this posed a problem under a harness if you were using climbing hardware, but on a glacier it would be fine. The length did prove a bonus in cold windy conditions where it offered a little extra protection. I mainly used the fleece for hiking in the mountains and scrambling and had no problems using it. There is often a trade off when using Windstopper, the membrane does a fantastic job of fending off the wind and keeping you warm, but can feel quite clammy when you’re working hard like walking uphill; this was exacerbated when wearing a rucksack. Most sensible people though (not reviewers of course who have to suffer for their art) would be taking the jacket off in those situations. Ventilation was also aided by a powerstretch insert under the armpits, this also was good for the rise and there was very little lift of the jacket when wearing a harness, it was a good substitute for pit zips and made for great manoeuvrability.

 

Plenty of Taslan reinforcement in high wear areas. The sleeves had plenty of Taslan reinforcement on the elbows and forearms and were closed using a Velcro tab made form Hypalon, the cuff was easy to close by a clever use of cutting the fleece away and just having Taslan, this meant the cuff didn’t feel bulky around the wrist, great when wearing gloves. There was stitched Windstopper logo on the sleeve and Sprayway logos on the chest and back of the neck.

The hood was very handy in windy conditions. There were 4 pockets, 2 large handwarmer pockets that had a waist drawcord adjuster hidden inside them, they were big enough to fit a laminated OS map in them plus more. There was a zipped Napoleon at the chest, easily big enough to fit a compass, GPS, mobile phone or energy bars. There was also a Velcro tabbed inside pocket, which was as big as the outer Napoleon pocket but strangely it was located on the same side which would mean it could become quite bulky if you were storing several items. All pockets opened to mesh which further enhanced the venting options.

 

A great walking jacket that is stylish and practical. So, in conclusion a good technical fleece that is going to perform well for most mountain conditions. Ideal for cold windy days, where you are going to put it on and keep it on all day. It’s stylish enough to wear down the pub and would great for all walking activities. It’s a little generous with the cut and too bulky for technical rock climbing but would be fine for mountaineering and long mountain routes. A well made and durable item of clothing that will last you a long time.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK