[Will Hunt]

Hopefully i got that naming convention right and this is the correct forum.
Need a recommendation for a first 7b on a crag near Yorkshire. Preferably not too soft but not totally nails. Preferred style is anything not involving a massive roof with hard to hold swings. My UKC logbook is here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=37308

Hopefully a look at the stuff I've done recently might give an idea of what I need?

Some other suggestions at 7a+ wouldn't go amiss either!

Cheers 

[SA Chris]

I though that this convention was for new probs only?

No one else seems to bother.

[Stubbs]

There is a dearth of 7b problems in Yorkshire. I think my first was Sloping Beauty at Earl. I would go for Ben's Groove and Underhand (you don't have to swing on it and if you do it isn't hard to hold.) There's also Fight on Black at widdop which is very good.

[ShortRound]

At Almscliff the problem which goes staight up the face of the virgin boulder was 7A+ when I did it but seems to be upgraded on yorkshire grit at 7B now. Lovely and steep with big slaps to rounded holds. I'm talking about the version without the small crimp for your left hand.

The Grouch at Brimham Rocks is brilliant at 7B. No wild swings to hold and really fun compression moves with heel hooks.

Crimpy Roof at Brimham outlying is 7B and fun requiring a dynamic last move. Feels great when you latch the break.

At 7A+ I really enjoyed the Flapjack traverse at Caley Crag. Again no massive roof or hard swings.

[Will Hunt]

Cheers for the suggestions, they all look great 

I think that 7b for the thing on the Virgin is for the top out rather than just reaching the break. I topped out The Gypsy today and I don't think I'll be going back for more! Will definitely look at the 7a+ to the break though.

[ShortRound]

It's a quality problem. I jumped off at the break though so I'll keep 7a+ for that one.

Let me know if you want any information for it as I spent a LOT of time trying it before succeeding!

[tomtom]

Hmm.... I'm in the same boat really.. but theres still a few 7a+'s and the like to sweep up at the cliff - but like Stubbsy said, not many 7b's.
Have you done the traverse down by the style (is that teaspoon cave?) 7a+ but pumpy and reachy.. I think the reverse crucifix traverse into crucifix arete gets 7b (though may be 7a+ - Moose likes this one IIRC). Also, isnt the standing start to steves roof (bugger - memory not so hot - the one left of Demon Wall Roof on the two small crimps - high RF) 7b? Underhand gets 7b+ on YG.com - rapidly becoming my nemesis! Steves Wall - 7a+, still not done the first move  but the rest is a bit of a lankfest!

[Stabbsy]

Another vote for the Grouch and Crimpy Roof (although this is fairly soft at the grade if you're tall). Also, Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff and Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham.

At 7a+, Si's Arete is small but perfectly formed. Also, The Anchor (roof, but no hard to hold swings) and the right arete of Red Tape from a sitter (brilliant moves and underrated).

[sjw]

If you put '7b' into the search box on Yorkshire Grit you'll get the full list. Another decent one not mentioned above is Millstone Grit at Shipley Glen.  The Flakes at Earl also looks brilliant, although I've never tried it.

[webbo]

Cheers for the suggestions, they all look great 

I think that 7b for the thing on the Virgin is for the top out rather than just reaching the break. I topped out The Gypsy today and I don't think I'll be going back for more! Will definitely look at the 7a+ to the break though.

is it fuck for the top out.the top out is the virgin old school hvs.

[Stubbs]

Oh yeah, Handy Andy's at Earl too, classic, and 7B in my book.

[Will Hunt]

the top out is the virgin old school hvs.

So we'll settle for new school E7 then 

As to the grading I was just going of what was in the new guide.

[Stubbs]

As to the grading I was just going of what was in the new guide.

That would be your first mistake then 

[Richie Crouch]

From the little I have done over on Yorks grit I'd recommend you get on the Grouch/Ben's Groove/Cherry Falls RH. I think only Cherry Falls required a bit of strength in locking that piece of filth razor blade!

Add to those a couple of 7b/+ like Crimpy Roof at Brimham and Ringpiece at Ilkley 

[JK]

Will - get on Whalebak at Simon's Seat (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=simons__whalebak#photo), crux is basically a long reach so should suit you well and is only very slightly overhanging. Also got to be one of the best lines around at this grade.

Also McNab at nearby Lords Seat is a classic 7b.

[andy_e]

Whalebak's also not really 7b. McNab looks amazing though.

[Stubbs]

Whalebak's also not really 7b.

Very 'brave and humble' Andi, I thought it was plenty 7B and have managed to fail on the 5 or so times I've tried it.

oh hang on

crux is basically a long reach

ah ha!

after having a play around on Black Head at the cliff on Saturday, I would recommend that too, needs a few pads.

[andy_e]

Yeah, that came across as dickish, sorry. I think it's easier than 7b though. Fantastic problem no matter what the grade.

[RowanSB]

Yeah blackhead is a good one Will, it was cold enough for all the cow shit to freeze up when i did it! Best try it with at least 3 mats.

Demon wall/dolphin belly slap variation, it's not really in your brief (steep, a bit shouldery and a big swing to the finishing hold) but i reckon you'd crush it! I could show you the beta when you're back in the uk.

[Jim]

I think that 7b for the thing on the Virgin is for the top out rather than just reaching the break.

I think this is very 7b (to the break) and I'm not shit on steep stuff with big rounded holds. also agree that handy andy's should go up to 7b.

[tommytwotone]

Ohhh, good thread - I did post up a similar one but it got lost in the last crash / cull...anyway.

For 7a+ there's The Horn at Caley Crags as well, last move was a bit of a pop for me but with your height you'll be fine.

While you're there how about Slapstick Arete near Pedestal Arete? That gets 7a+ standing, 7b SS:

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__slapstick_arete#photo

I really want to get on Ripper Arete at Calety Roadside though I suspect it might be reachy:

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__ripper_arete#photo

[RowanSB]

Ripper Arete really really needs a clean, did the first few moves onto the slab but the arete was so grubby I could hardly hold it.