Enzo Oddo repeats Biographie (Read 14075 times)

slackline · August 16, 2010, 11:56:48 pm

15 yr old Enzo Oddo repeats Biographie with new harder start (Lowdown @ UKC)

More pics

No idea what the deal is with a new start?

Was there hold breakage or something?

GCW · August 17, 2010, 12:16:40 am

He's added a sitter and regraded it V8+.

Drew · August 17, 2010, 01:18:17 am

So has the naming settled down now? I always thought Biographie was the short version, and the long version was Realization (which was 9a+?)

lukeyboy · August 17, 2010, 07:23:38 am

Quote from: slack---line on August 16, 2010, 11:56:48 pm

No idea what the deal is with a new start? Was there hold breakage or something?

Yeah it was because a hold broke (Lowdown)

slackline · August 17, 2010, 07:30:05 am

Quote from: Drew on August 17, 2010, 01:18:17 am

So has the naming settled down now? I always thought Biographie was the short version, and the long version was Realization (which was 9a+?)

Ha, whilst people bicker over the grade the name is secondary (although that is my understanding of the naming convention).

ferret · August 17, 2010, 07:34:35 am

font 8a to the 1st bolt now instead of the previous 7c, was always called biographie by the french as the tradition is that whoever bolts the line names it. didnt matter that petit had to install lower anchors as he cudnt complete the entire line, as far as the french think his name should stand. effort hard end of 9a+ i should think as gettin to the 1st bolt would be a long term project for me

SA Chris · August 17, 2010, 09:17:05 am

I think getting off the ground would be a longterm project.

Never knew that about the french naming. Hence Super Plafond / Magino Line etc.

Fiend · August 17, 2010, 09:28:58 am

REALISATION

Tris · August 17, 2010, 09:38:59 am

I hate to reference wickedpaedophile, but here you go:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Realization_(climb)

Only ~~mentalists~~ the french called it Biographie...

SA Chris · August 17, 2010, 10:06:00 am

It was a Seppo who named it.

Paul B · August 17, 2010, 11:03:16 am

The FA list in the latest buoux guide is an interesting (i.e. incorrect) read as well.

Jaspersharpe · August 17, 2010, 11:13:49 am

The French have always done this. I see no problem in naming the "equipeur" as well as the first ascentionist but they have a habit of blurring the lines when it comes to foreigners doing new routes there.....

ferret · August 17, 2010, 02:04:13 pm

now sharmas opened up first round first minute, maybe some french wad can do it and name that biographie and sharma can keep realisation

Pitcairn · August 17, 2010, 03:35:31 pm

Renaming a route when a hold comes off? Ridiculous. In that case half the routes on peak limestone would have a new name each week...

Jaspersharpe · August 17, 2010, 03:36:34 pm

Who's suggesting that?

roddersm · August 17, 2010, 03:45:35 pm

Theres a thread on 8a.nu or something. Is it not more a case that oddo is referring to it as biographie because hes french and the french have never recognised as realization, as opposed to him renaming it?

Wasn't it jc lafaille who bolted it and named it biographie? Isn't this just the french way though for intance moffatt first climbed papy on sight but its credited to edlinger in the verdon guide.

lagerstarfish · August 17, 2010, 04:10:38 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on August 17, 2010, 11:13:49 am

The French have always done this. I see no problem in naming the "equipeur" as well as the first ascentionist but they have a habit of blurring the lines when it comes to foreigners doing new routes there.....

Aren't all French people foreigners?

Oh... I see

Paul B · August 17, 2010, 04:13:40 pm

Quote from: roddersm on August 17, 2010, 03:45:35 pm

Wasn't it jc lafaille who bolted it and named it biographie? Isn't this just the french way though for intance moffatt first climbed papy on sight but its credited to edlinger in the verdon guide.

This is what I was reffering to. Agincourt isn't credited to Moon in the Buoux guide.Its not written as equippers either they're down as Ouvreurs.

SA Chris · August 17, 2010, 04:43:11 pm

Quote

Ouvreurs.

Eggs?

Paul B · August 17, 2010, 04:43:59 pm

eggsactly

simes · August 17, 2010, 05:14:04 pm

Quote from: ferret on August 17, 2010, 02:04:13 pm

now sharmas opened up first round first minute, maybe some french wad can do it and name that biographie and sharma can keep realisation

Has he done it? I haven't seen any reports? (not saying he hasn't)

Paul B · August 17, 2010, 05:15:23 pm

isn't he meaning 'opened' as in no longer a closed project.

Damn these new fangled ways, opening, realising, sent (sent for f*cks sake?) etc. pff.

simes · August 17, 2010, 05:31:12 pm

Ah yes. I understand.

roddersm · August 17, 2010, 07:36:21 pm

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57372

Sorted. Biographie it is.

Tris · August 17, 2010, 08:08:02 pm

The point is - the French are frickin' mental for their tradition of being able to name a route after bolting it. I could go and bolt some brilliant future projects and call them what I want even though I haven't got a chance in hell of climbing them.

The name should be decided by the person who first climbs the route..