[slackline]

15 yr old Enzo Oddo repeats Biographie with new harder start (Lowdown @ UKC)

More pics

No idea what the deal is with a new start?  Was there hold breakage or something?

[GCW]

He's added a sitter and regraded it V8+.

[Drew]

So has the naming settled down now? I always thought Biographie was the short version, and the long version was Realization (which was 9a+?)

[lukeyboy]

No idea what the deal is with a new start?  Was there hold breakage or something?

Yeah it was because a hold broke (Lowdown)

[slackline]

So has the naming settled down now? I always thought Biographie was the short version, and the long version was Realization (which was 9a+?)

Ha, whilst people bicker over the grade the name is secondary (although that is my understanding of the naming convention).

[ferret]

font 8a to the 1st bolt now instead of the previous 7c, was always called biographie by the french as the tradition is that whoever bolts the line names it. didnt matter that petit had to install lower anchors as he cudnt complete the entire line, as far as the french think his name should stand. effort hard end of 9a+ i should think as gettin to the 1st bolt would be a long term project for me 

[SA Chris]

I think getting off the ground would be a longterm project.

Never knew that about the french naming. Hence Super Plafond / Magino Line etc.

[Fiend]

REALISATION 

[Tris]

I hate to reference wickedpaedophile, but here you go:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Realization_(climb)

Only mentalists the french called it Biographie...

[SA Chris]

It was a Seppo who named it.

[Paul B]

The FA list in the latest buoux guide is an interesting (i.e. incorrect) read as well.

[Jaspersharpe]

The French have always done this. I see no problem in naming the "equipeur" as well as the first ascentionist but they have a habit of blurring the lines when it comes to foreigners doing new routes there.....

[ferret]

now sharmas opened up first round first minute, maybe some french wad can do it and name that biographie and sharma can keep realisation

[Pitcairn]

Renaming a route when a hold comes off?  Ridiculous.  In that case half the routes on peak limestone would have a new name each week... 

[Jaspersharpe]

Who's suggesting that?

[roddersm]

Theres a thread on 8a.nu or something. Is it not more a case that oddo is referring to it as biographie because hes french and the french have never recognised as realization, as opposed to him renaming it?

Wasn't it jc lafaille who bolted it and named it biographie? Isn't this just the french way though for intance moffatt first climbed papy on sight but its credited to edlinger in the verdon guide.

[lagerstarfish]

The French have always done this. I see no problem in naming the "equipeur" as well as the first ascentionist but they have a habit of blurring the lines when it comes to foreigners doing new routes there.....

Aren't all French people foreigners? 

Oh... I see

[Paul B]

Wasn't it jc lafaille who bolted it and named it biographie? Isn't this just the french way though for intance moffatt first climbed papy on sight but its credited to edlinger in the verdon guide.

This is what I was reffering to. Agincourt isn't credited to Moon in the Buoux guide.Its not written as equippers either they're down as Ouvreurs.

[SA Chris]

Ouvreurs.

Eggs?

[Paul B]

eggsactly

[simes]

now sharmas opened up first round first minute, maybe some french wad can do it and name that biographie and sharma can keep realisation

Has he done it? I haven't seen any reports? (not saying he hasn't)

[Paul B]

isn't he meaning 'opened' as in no longer a closed project.

Damn these new fangled ways, opening, realising, sent (sent for f*cks sake?) etc. pff.

[simes]

Ah yes. I understand.

[roddersm]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57372

Sorted. Biographie it is.

[Tris]

The point is - the French are frickin' mental for their tradition of being able to name a route after bolting it. I could go and bolt some brilliant future projects and call them what I want even though I haven't got a chance in hell of climbing them.

The name should be decided by the person who first climbs the route..

[Paul B]

the irony is enhanced somewhat when the FA list looks like a Frenchman named an iconic project Agincourt.

[SA Chris]

The point is - the French are frickin' mental for their tradition of being able to name a route after bolting it. I could go and bolt some brilliant future projects and call them what I want even though I haven't got a chance in hell of climbing them.

Go to Ceuse and bop some bolts in, and call it Tris c'est le roi de monde. Or something.

[lagerstarfish]

So, somebody opened Biographie by equipping it, then somebody realised it by climbing it and going a bit past the finishing equipment that the opener put there and called it Realisation, then somebody repeated it with a harder start because the rock was not the same as when it was realised, but even though that ascent involved a different start and finish to what the original opener/equiper meant when he named it we can still call it by the same name?

[Krank]

seems logical to me

[roddersm]

So, somebody opened Biographie by equipping it, then somebody realised it by climbing it and going a bit past the finishing equipment that the opener put there and called it Realisation, then somebody repeated it with a harder start because the rock was not the same as when it was realised, but even though that ascent involved a different start and finish to what the original opener/equiper meant when he named it we can still call it by the same name?

Not quite I think. Lafaille bolted the full line and called it Biographie as is the french ethic.
Not sure who added the intermediate lower off but it was climbed to there by Petit(I think)
. Sharma then did the full line and according to him thought Biographie was the name of the 8c+ to the 1st lower off and called the full thing realization. The french were peeved and ignored this referring to it as biographie. Theres a section in the ceuse guide about millet doing it which discusses the history of the route. Interestingly sharma is hardly mentioned despite being the 1st to do it which seems lousy. According to sharmas latest comment he now recognises the full line as biographie. Oddos now done it after some holds fell of the start. Strong boy.

I suppose the french seem to recognise the person with the vision and effort to equip the line as opposed to the 1st person to do it clean. Its a bit odd though that the guidebooks often don't record the 1st ascensionist of these routes.

Is this the same all over europe?

[SA Chris]

So what do you say you have climbed if you climb to the lower lower off now?

[IanP]

Biographie L1, it's pretty common in France and Spain to have routes with intermediate belays, as designated as L1, L2 etc.

[slackline]

So what do you say you have climbed if you climb to the lower lower off now?

Half a route, I read that the lower lower-off has been removed (if you trust Wikipedia on this front!).

[SA Chris]

Bugger. there goes the onsight

[lagerstarfish]

Glad that's all cleared up. Now I know what to write on my ticklist.

[webbo]

I suppose the french seem to recognise the person with the vision and effort to equip the line as opposed to the 1st person to do it clean. Its a bit odd though that the guidebooks often don't record the 1st ascensionist of these routes.

Is this the same all over europe?

not here in old england.pity though as i would have my name down for several major grit routes that i prepared before they were done.

[Jaspersharpe]

We used to do this in the problem book for our board as a piss take. Smythe got the nickname "Garnier" (after Denis Garnier the "equipeur" of hundreds of routes at Buoux) because he was always making up problems which I then stole the FA of. Hence the problem names Garnier's Question Time, Laborotoire Garnier etc etc.

Is it Garnier who gets credit for Agincourt Paul? Wouldn't be surprised as he bolted half the crag.

Seeing as most of these routes had pretty shit bolts in them originally and have now been re equipped, perhaps whoever did the rebolt should get to rename them. What nonsense.

[Paul B]

Laurent Jacob

[Jaspersharpe]

Ah right. Also massively prolific!

[Krank]

he does make a lovely cracker though

[duncan]

Go to Ceuse and bop some bolts in, and call it Realization.

Congratulations of course due to M. Oddo (is he old enough to be a M.?)

[lagerstarfish]

Laurent Jacob

Denis Garnier

 

I love the idea of attributing all unclimbed, bolted lines to a French DJ and giving them names like Shot In The Dark and Crispy Bacon

until they get done, anyway