[ksjs]

got on this last week and could not work out how it finishes. ended up stepping right to climb the last metres of Firefly to reach the belay.

i tried going direct from the top of the flake crack (where you place wires) but this seems too hard for the grade (be that 7a+ or 7b): smeary, technical moves and then no holds to move up and right (it looks like there might be a broken hold?) also, the weakness you see to be aiming for (down and left of belay where there appears to be good holds) is plant filled so im wondering if this actually ever gets done. the line on the topo in North Wales Rock seems to go half way between Firefly finish and a direct finish to Captain Fingers so no real clues there.

for me stepping right into Firefly seemed the only way at this grade but a disappointing end to some good climbing. all in all im a bit confused and am wondering if i need to up my lime smearing skills or if someone out there can confirm that stepping right is how it finishes? thanks

PS if it does go direct some beta would be useful - like how the hell do you get to the obvious undercut hold about 1 - 1.5m above the end of the flake crack?

[chummer]

Now then Keith la!
Aye, tis a funny little fucker this, not overly hard, just quite tenuous and can feel a little committing. Excuse me if I go over what you already know or miss out a few moves but here's my knowledge:

 At the top of the the crack there's a tenuous move to get stood up on your left foot high in the crack, then followed by a committing move up to the obvious undercut ear hold with your left hand. This is just one of those moves you've just got to go for and it all kinda makes sense, toes smearing on nice little edges. A last hard pull off the undercut leads to better holds. Once you have done this things ease moving right into the rightward diagonal flake/crack with the plant in it and some welcome gear, up the crack to join Firefly, albeit at the belay. At this grade you definitely don't go straight up the headwall but you're right, it would make for an even better route.

Get yourself on Foolish Goolish if you ain't already, great route at a similar grade.

Good luck
Jon R

[chummer]

or...the tenuous move to stand up with your left foot near the top of the crack may be the move that leads you straight up to the undercut ear hold once you've stood up..slightly better foot holds help settle you here.

[BenF]

Yeah, what jon says seems about right to me too. Tenuous is a good word to use. Good route though and often seems to be ignored. 'You've had your chips' is another similar route that's worth trying if you haven't done it yet.

[ksjs]

cheers Jon - as i thought, just need to up my skills! think it will feel pretty sketchy / exciting like this but as its the only way theres no choice. another excellent route on a great section of the Orme: have done a few bits there but will have to do more...

[chummer]

It is pretty exciting, feels very similar to Scary Canary, another little gem for ya!