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low grade sport A55 (Read 3885 times)

psychomansam

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low grade sport A55
June 06, 2010, 02:29:54 pm
Possibly silly of me to ask when i'm buying the new guide anyway, but sometimes these things gloss over the levels of
choss, thought i'd see if anyone can give some advice as i don't want my head bitten off!

Looking to do some sport with the gf, preferably along the A55, as she is in Warrington and i'm moving to Bangor. She is shite scared of choss and hated horseshoe quarry. She leads 5-6a+ and i lead 6a-c+.

Anyone got any recommendations for a crag that won't damage our relationship?

Thanks all
Sam

Falling Down

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#1 Re: low grade sport A55
June 06, 2010, 04:21:50 pm
The wall to right of Llandulas cave have some quality routes in the 6's.  They're all on the Limestone wiki

petejh

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#2 Re: low grade sport A55
June 06, 2010, 10:10:30 pm
Penmaen Head is ideal for those grades. The GF may be a bit nervous on first acquaintance as it does look like shit but it's generally solid and climbs much better than it looks, although the new A55 guide overdoes the stars by one. It gets the sun after lunch.
Castle Inn has a couple of good routes in the low 6's and a few 6c's, gets lots of sun.
Llandulas Cave probably not good for the gf (no worthwhile low 6's), and only has a couple of good mid to high 6's and a few good 7's. 
LPT has the 4 routes at the far end all 5+ - 6a+. Lots of people leading 6's find it quite hard on first acquaintance (don't know if you've already been there).
Pen Trwyn has one 5 and only a few easier 6's, prob not the best venue for gf but loads of good high 6's (many of which feel nails on the O/S). There's a nice new set of photo topos to the whole of Pen Trwyn on the north wales limestone wiki  ;)
Lower Empire is good for higher 6's roof climbing, good suntrap and out of wind, and just been re-equipped.
The Gallery is good for evenings or heat waves, but again nothing below 6b I think, and the rock is intimidating - lots of sharp edges but quite good climbing once you get over the fear of slicing your rope in half!


Paul B

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#3 Re: low grade sport A55
June 07, 2010, 03:20:56 pm
Pen Trwyn has one 5 and only a few easier 6's, prob not the best venue for gf but loads of good high 6's

My MRS. also found this area a touch bold in places. The routes however are really good quality (maybe the best sport climbs at this grade in the UK?).

Pantontino

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#4 Re: low grade sport A55
June 08, 2010, 10:31:57 am
How about a trip to the slate quarries around Llanberis - a bit further for her to travel, but only 15 minutes from Bangor.

Lots of low grade clip ups to go at; try Australia Quarry for a starter:

http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/Looning+the+Tube+Level

http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/LEVEL+ABOVE+LOONING+THE+TUBE

http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/The+Sidings+Level

Check this for more info on the area:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/LooningtheTubetopo3.pdf

psychomansam

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#5 Re: low grade sport A55
June 08, 2010, 01:29:40 pm
Thanks for all the advice guys,

Looks like we'll start off with a trip to Llandulas cave and/or Penmaen head then. Much appreciated. Pity tomorrow is a wash out eh

And thanks for that too Pantontino, gonna wait til move there (sept) to get on the slate as it'll make more sense travel wise then. Really looking forward to it.

 :bounce:
Sam

slackline

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#6 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 07:33:41 am
What about this?


psychomansam

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#7 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 01:59:35 pm
And you're normally so much more attentive! I did mention I was getting it in my original post, and now have it.
 :whistle:
Bit pricey for a small guide, but good work by all involved, and i know they ain't cheap to print etc.

Was mainly asking as guidebooks can take a somewhat rose-tinted view of choss, and don't want to put the gf off uk sport even more! I wonder if a few crags aren't looser than usual after our extra-special winter...

slackline

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#8 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 02:47:46 pm
 :oops:  :read: :spank:

Doylo

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#9 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 06:13:11 pm
Bit pricey for a small guide, but good work by all involved, and i know they ain't cheap to print etc.

Maybe but it contains a lot of new information that hasn't been published before.

Richie Crouch

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#10 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 08:34:15 pm
I just bought it to fawn over the hunk on the front cover  :-*

Doylo

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#11 Re: low grade sport A55
June 14, 2010, 10:04:20 pm
oh god never thought it would become wanking material for crouchy  :o

 

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