[Bonjoy]

Good to see the new low key problem reporting area. Now I don’t have to worry about whether something is sufficiently worthy of a slot in the News area before describing first ascents. With that in mind here’s a few random bits from the last year that probably haven’t been mentioned on UKB to date.

Embarrassment of Riches - E4 6b or highball 6C – Direct start to Crew Pegs Diffs at High Neb. Better and more logical than the original start since hold broke on that. Big move off undercut to pocket. Seemed roughly same difficulty as No More Excuses hence grade, though paradoxically I didn’t think it much/any harder than CPD original which is perhaps undergraded at E3 6a.

Curve Ball - E1 6a or highball 6B – At Black Rocks. Direct finish to Curving Crack via a couple of big open pockets, finish right along break.

Icarus Upstart - E4 6b or highball 6C – At 5 Clouds. Boulder prob start to Icarus Allsorts. Start with pocket on lip of cave, jump to jug and continue direct into the normal route. Doesn’t use the pillar on the right.  Boulderers might want to step off after the steep bit.  FA Adam Long (I made up the name, by all means change if you want JB)

The Pinnacle of Human Achievement - 6b+ - SS, climb the small pillar just right of Icarus (see above)

Sitting in Oxford - 7a+ - Sit start to the arete climbed by Living in Oxford. Knacky one mover off pinch to sloper.

Spike J - 7a+ - The left arete of the Abyss chimney at Rowtor via a jump start to slopey lip then up into gutter mantel. Requires calculated nonchalance. Obviously quite height dependant and graded for Billy Average jumping off one pad.

Gutter Snipe - 6b+ - Rowtor. Follow Chip Shop Mantle’s gutter all the way to the finish of Spike J. The easiest way up the block but pumpy.

Worm in a Teacup - 6C – On wall right of the Grimper at eatswood. Start on right, traverse sloping shelf to gain hanging shield, continue left along high break into corner.

I’m sure a few others on here have a backlog of random snippets. I for one am keen to see what people have been up to. Anymore for anymore?

[cofe]

Spike J - 7a+ - The left arete of the Abyss chimney at Rowtor via a jump start to slopey lip then up into gutter mantel. Requires calculated nonchalance. Obviously quite height dependant and graded for Billy Average jumping off one pad.

This is brilliant, and almost ungradeable.

[Bonjoy]

Here's a pic of Sitting in Oxford

[tallsop]

nice one, saw sittin in oxford photos on peakbouldering website, looks good.  I did  a new problem at bradley edge called 'il pleut' thats about 7a+, its in the woods uphill from secret lemonade drinker, photo on ukc (cant work out how to get pics on ere!). Also did two easier problems there both of which are on peakbouldering.info

You been back to your 'unfinished business' at turning stone yet bonjoy?

[Bonjoy]

If you have pics on peakbouldering you can link to them here by copy pasting the URL from properties.
Haven't been back to TSE for a good while actually. Might have to revisit some time in spring.

[tallsop]

cool, i went round tse yesterday, tis lookin mint. tops well clear, tis almost like a proper crag! 

[Ru]

Here's a pic of Sitting in Oxford

Well spotted.

[Bonjoy]

See what you did there Ru. Yes it's a one move SS, but a good one on perfect rock I think. An ideal way to kill time between spotting your mate throwing himself off Superstition (I guess this is a pretty niche specification). It's all a ploy to speed up your guide writing efforts, the longer it takes, the bigger your job gets.

[Ru]

See what you did there Ru. Yes it's a one move SS, but a good one on perfect rock I think. An ideal way to kill time between spotting your mate throwing himself off Superstition (I guess this is a pretty niche specification). It's all a ploy to speed up your guide writing efforts, the longer it takes, the bigger your job gets.

It looks like a nice move, I'll be trying it next time I'm there.

[a dense loner]

sitting in oxford feels very hard for 7a+, especially for the long limbed. quality find tho

[Bonjoy]

It took me a while to figure how to even pull on (small low undercut, LF on low hold on arete, RF clamp round corner). Could be harder than 7a+. One movers are always the hardest to grade.

[Johnny Brown]

WOOAAHHH THERE! Has Dense been climbing outside? In the UK?

[account_inactive]

I was going to ask if that was you logged on as Dense...........

[a dense loner]

only when i'm inspired, and it looked like one of the best lines i'd seen for ages

[Somebody's Fool]

sitting in oxford feels very hard for 7a+

RF clamp round corner

No wonder.

[a dense loner]

i see what you've done columns

[Jim]

you 2 should get a room

[Scouse D]

Me and Steve did Sitting in Oxford today, Worked out some new foot beta which (I'm sorry to say) makes it about 6c
Still a very good little problem.

[Jim]

are you sure its not just 6c for people with enormous ape index's?

[Scouse D]

Nah, just 6c. Might get you a + if you're short but I wasn't at full stretch by any means.

[Bonjoy]

Go on then, what's the trick?

[Scouse D]

Sorry, forgot to say!
Twist the toes of your left foot into the crack at the back of the large foot ledge. Right foot goes where you had your left in the picture(the hold below the foot ledge). By pulling on the LF jam and pushing with the Right toe you can 'levitate' yourself to the edges. I actually went to a good edge at the same level as the ones you went to, just further Left.
I could barely pull on with your beta but this was steady away.

[Bonjoy]

Cunning stuff. I'll try to make a neat job of sikaing up the break.

[a dense loner]

sounds genius

[Dutch]

Went and did this with Scouse today.  Pretty cool move using his funky foot beta.  Still reckon it's harder than 6c/+.  7a/+ seemed pretty fair to me.