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Red River Gorge (Read 1461 times)

tim palmer

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Red River Gorge
March 05, 2010, 11:16:16 am
I am off there at the end of the month for a few days, has anyone been there?
What are the classics?  Warm ups about 12b or so, up to 13 b/c or so, nothing harder as i only have a few days, unless they are unmissable and soft. 
Oh and how stiff are the grades?  I am going to get beaten down or are they quite friendly in the way of alll things north american.

Stabbsy

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#1 Re: Red River Gorge
March 05, 2010, 01:53:25 pm
Tim,

I've had a couple of trips there, but not for a few years. I've only done a few 13a's there, but done loads from 12a up to 12c/d. The grades felt fairly soft, but that might just be down to liking the climbing style - (virtually) no hard moves, just pumpy. A selection of the best crags/routes in my opinion, plus some I didn't try but look amazing :-

The Motherlode

Chainsaw Massacre (12a)
Ale-8-One (12b)
Rocket Dog (12b)
Resurrection (12c)
Tuna Town (12d)
Team Wilson (12d)
Convicted (13a)
BOHICA (13b)

Torrent Falls - if it's open again

Bare Metal Teen (12a)
Steelworker (12c)
Racer X (12d)

Left Flank

Mercy, The Huff (12b/c)
Dinosaur (12c/d)
Table Of Colors (13a) - didn't try this, but looks stunning
Stunning The Hog (12d)

For the grades that you're after, I'd maybe concentrate on The Motherlode and some of the areas nearby. I've not climbed there, but The Darkside and Bob Marley look superb. Some of the other crags I've been to have stacks of excellent routes in the 5.11 and low 5.12 range (Military Wall, Roadside, Skybridge Ridge), but not much in the higher grades. One other route I'd definitely recommend is Orange Juice (12c) at Funk Rock City, but it's kind of a one route venue if you're climbing harder stuff.

Hope that's of some use.

 

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