UKBouldering.com

Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos (Read 13419 times)

JR

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 702
  • Karma: +22/-2
Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 01:59:25 pm
What grade is that?

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#1 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:00:43 pm
As far as i know it's considered to be around V8 but as with most dynos, it depends on who you ask.

JR

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 702
  • Karma: +22/-2
#2 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:02:24 pm
Well i got either 2nd or 3rd go, prob say B7...

John

dave

  • Guest
#3 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:03:20 pm
font 7a/V6/B7 john, no doubt.

vivahate

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 528
  • Karma: +5/-0
  • Dragonaut
#4 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:05:35 pm
i wanna give it a go when i next go down to the roaches, i it doesn't look that hard.. from what i can see of the top hold, i mean you can catch it two handed..

dave

  • Guest
#5 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:09:19 pm
Quote from: "JR"
Well i got either 2nd or 3rd go,


flashed then eh john? :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#6 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:10:51 pm
Quote from: "xvivahatex"
i wanna give it a go when i next go down to the roaches, i it doesn't look that hard.. from what i can see of the top hold, i mean you can catch it two handed..


the top hold is big and good. easiest is to go with left hand, but both is hardly any different. you can actually add a couple of nice undercut moves by doing it from sitting, if you're bored.

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#7 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:38:09 pm
Are any of the people claiming it's easy not tall mutants ? :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#8 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 02:52:02 pm
i don't know what makes you think that. :roll:

tom

  • Guest
#9 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 03:24:33 pm
yeh i notice a lot of talk about the buckstone dyno being piss a bit ago was that from the tall mutants as well, people over a certain height should be banned from being smug about the dyno's they can do!

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#10 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:16:12 pm
Maybe we can get dense loner in on this, a tallish man who admits that dyno's ARE easier if your tall. Sorry but we should have some kind of grade handicap based on height/ ape index to smooth the grades out :roll:

dave

  • Guest
#11 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:23:18 pm
clearly dynos are easier for a person if they are taller compared with the eventuality of that same person being, say, a foot shorter. however technique does come into it a lot. i'm like 6'ish, and before i found the right way (for me) of doing the buckstone dyno i couldn't get within a foot of the top. i'm still the same height now, its just the technique that matters. i think theres very few tall whoh aren't tall enough to be exceedingly tall (i.e. 6' - 6'4) who get up dynos purely by virtue of being tall. all the people i know who are good at dynos also have a good dyno technique. the reason you don't see tallies with bad dyno techniqe on dynos very much is cos they avoid them to spare the humiliation.

i think when you're getting 6'4 and above then things a change again. i've seen crap dreadlocked hippy types at 6'5 etc who can barely pull on the green traverse yet get deliverance within a few goes the original jump method who's feet hardly come off. bear in mind it took me aboue a month of solid work to wire that one.

and anyway i've got little sympathy for shortarses with their tremendous strength to weight ratios, they should stick to the piches wall or crimpy traverses. :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#12 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:34:48 pm
Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"
Sorry but we should have some kind of grade handicap based on height/ ape index to smooth the grades out :roll:


only if we can have to to even out little fingers in small breaks, weight etc etc. :wink:

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#13 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:37:48 pm
I discovered that I was doing dynos all wrong (body position, foot holds etc) went from getting no where near on buckstones to hitting the top a few times. I've hit the top on that roaches dyno as well but didn't stick it :cry:

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#14 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:46:12 pm
Quote
to even out little fingers in small breaks, weight etc etc


with you on that one G, being a fat cuhnt with sausages for fingers and being a gentleman of smaller stature my handicap would be adventageous........Banana Finger  V15  with seasonal adjustments :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#15 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:49:51 pm
ahh but you've got decades of experience - a bit like jerry in that (and only that) respect.

bo.

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11480
  • Karma: +702/-22
#16 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:54:56 pm
Quote
Maybe we can get dense loner in on this, a tallish man who admits that dyno's ARE easier if your tall.


I'd hardly call him tall, or for that matter, a man.

Surely any dyno/height question was settled at the dyno comp, where much talent was beaten by a crap-but-tall guy.

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#17 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 04:57:45 pm
But i can fool people into thinking that Im well you know.......um 30 :?
Although im still younger that bubb's............(12 days!!)
i was at Seb grieves 40tieth on saturday djing (or attempting to, several cocktails got in the way of any rational thought and a general racket was all i seemed to produce) big sheffield turn out and  it has to be said several of our 'rockstars' are looking a little frayed around the edges!!!
as for dense loner, yes 'man' is a loose term for someone from his neck of the woods

Kim

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 528
  • Karma: +13/-1
#18 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 05:19:36 pm
Quote from: "dave"

i think when you're getting 6'4 and above then things a change again. i've seen crap dreadlocked hippy types at 6'5 etc who can barely pull on the green traverse yet get deliverance within a few goes the original jump method who's feet hardly come off. bear in mind it took me aboue a month of solid work to wire that one.


incidently the official qualification for being too tall, and therefore everything you do being a grade easier, is if you can do deliverance the jump way, but not the, ahem, *proper* way.  :wink:

If you can do it the proper way and can't do it the jump way, this means you are good and not too tall.   :D


sits back, and waits for the flak... :guns:

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#19 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 05:23:07 pm
tall, i'm 5'10 n 1/2. i'm only tall when stood with fatboy. as for the other comment i actually laughed out loud. u mr brown ave not got back to me n u fatboy never amuse yourself at the expense of a man who owes u money.  :wink:
johnny - after reading the outrage in ote ave added a further 2 grades on my prob.  :lol:
as for dynos anyone who thinks being tall isn't an advantage is clearly deluded. technique? theres not much to a jump. i wouldn't call movin your right foot 2 inches down so u can do the buckstone technique. i'd just say that's the way u do it. know people over 6' who do the dynos at stoney cos thats all they can do n then claim can climb b9. this is surely criminal! while we're at it georges wall dyno uses just the break, not the big hold to the side for the left hand to start.

JR

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 702
  • Karma: +22/-2
#20 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 06:38:19 pm
dynos are easier for the tall, however it is much harder to get the motion started when you're tall, especially if the footholds are high.  Smaller people need more power to get the height needed, once the move has begun.

Doesn't make much sense, but i know what i mean.  And yes dave everythjing i have ever done is a flash, no point trying it again if you cant do it first go...! :-)

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#21 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 11, 2003, 11:48:17 pm
this is starting to sound like the Monty Python yorkshiremen sketch so here's my ha'peth...

I'm 5 foot 6 inches tall and therefore can't even begin discussions into dynos because as much as I love 'em, doable dynos for me are just static slaps for all me mates (cue faint sound of violins).

In the last few years I've flapped at the Buckstone and can't even reeeach the sidepull of Deliverance.

Am I the shortest arse here? If I am official UKB midget that's excuses sorted for the rest of my life, and I'd like note like the kids at school who got out of PE.

DISCLAIMER: I realise that I am weak  :)

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11480
  • Karma: +702/-22
#22 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 12, 2003, 09:32:09 am
dawes and bransby have both done Deliverance, admittedly there's some talent there but neither are over 5' 6".
In fact 'little johnny' was the original inventor of the dyno so I think you are just not applying yerself. Masterclasses are available...

dave

  • Guest
#23 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 12, 2003, 09:37:52 am
Quote from: "Kim"

incidently the official qualification for being too tall, and therefore everything you do being a grade easier, is if you can do deliverance the jump way, but not the, ahem, *proper* way.  :wink:

If you can do it the proper way and can't do it the jump way, this means you are good and not too tall.   :D


kim yourforgot the other kind of person, the kind that fluked it the rockoverway once but have never been able to repeat it. :wink:  :lol:

nik at work

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3597
  • Karma: +312/-2
#24 Andi T's huge roaches dyno in the videos
December 12, 2003, 11:27:27 am
I too am five foot six, joint shortarseiest person here?
However I think dynos are ace, but thats probably because they don't require any stamina and you don't need to be brutally strong in da fingers to ice them (if that is the correct terminology - dave?).
Short and tall people often use wildly different techniques to do a 'dyno' (tall people very rarely truly dyno), whether one is easier than the other I dunno as I have only ever been short. Any tall people out there who used to be short care to offer an opinion?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal