[JamieG]

This is a typical newbie question and may have been answered before.

But does anyway have any idea why beta is called beta? 

[dave]

wikipediaphile says:

The original use of the term Beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber, Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format. This was actually a play on words, as Jack would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?"

Which may or may not contain some or fewer elements of truth.

[lagerstarfish]

The use of the term "beta" to mean information about how to do the moves on a climb comes from a few anglo-american missunderstandings. Origionaly people in Scunthorpe talked about "beater" - meaning information that allowed one to "beat" a problem. Some visiting American heroes on a buildering road trip heard this use of the word and missunderstood it to be "beeda" as it sounds the same in their language. Some British visitors to Waco on a David Koresh pilgrimage heard this word being used and assumed it was a mispronunciation of the word "beta" and thinking that this was something to do with the wonderful Betamax video system decided it would be cool to use it in the way that boulders now do, especially as nobody knew what they were on about when they talked about needing "VHS" for problems (people thought this was a grade lower than VS for routes)

this may not be very accurate

 

[slackline]

Do you know your greek alphabet?

What position (numerically) does Beta come in that?

In case you don't know...

Alpha Beta Gamma Delta Epsilon Zeta Eta Theta.....

So Beta is second, and information about a climb comes second hand as you're yet to experience it yourself 

[dave]

slacky that sounds well apocryphal.

[JamieG]

Thanks for the info.

I must admit when i first heard the term i thought it was "beater" too. Now i know better.

So when you climb a problem is that the alpha then. 

[slackline]

slacky that sounds well apocryphal.

 

[simes]

Its just a trendy word that makes you think youre cool, same as "sending" a route (what's wrong with climbing it?) or doing a "highball" boulder problem, when you could just say "its high" and save a syllable.

Si.

[Jaspersharpe]

slacky that sounds well apocryphal a crock of shite.

  

[dave]

Its just a trendy word that makes you think youre cool, same as "sending" a route (what's wrong with climbing it?) or doing a "highball" boulder problem, when you could just say "its high" and save a syllable.

Si.

you can hardly call the word beta "trendy", not unless you define trendy to mean at least 15 years old. so its "trendy" like catalytic converters or nike air max.

[tomtom]

The subject of the use of beta in bouldering is a controversial issue. I really, really like the use of beta in bouldering. Until recently considered taboo amongst polite society, there are just not enough blues songs written about the use of beta in bouldering. It is an unfortunate consequence of our civilizations history that the use of beta in bouldering is rarely given rational consideration by socialists, whom I can say no more about due to legal restrictions. With the primary aim of demonstrating my considerable intellect I will now demonstrate the complexity of the many faceted issue that is the use of beta in bouldering.

Social Factors

Society is a human product. When Sir Bernard Chivilary said 'hounds will feast on society' [1] he shead new light on the use of beta in bouldering, allowing man to take it by the hand and understand its momentum. Difference among people, race, culture and society is essential on the survival of our world, however the use of beta in bouldering provides standards by which we may judge our selves.

Special care must be taken when analysing such a delicate subject. On the other hand anyone that disagrees with me is an idiot. It breaks the mould, shattering man's misunderstanding of man.

Economic Factors

Is unemployment inherently bad for an economy? Yes. We will primarily be focusing on the Simple-Many-Pies model, a classic economic system of analysis.


Market
Value
Of
Gold    
 
               the use of beta in bouldering

The results displayed in the graph are too clear to be ignored. Well the market value of gold, ultimately decided by politicians, will always be heavily influenced by the use of beta in bouldering due to its consistently high profile in the portfolio of investors. The financial press seems unable to make up its mind on these issues which unsettles investors.

Political Factors

Modern politics owes much to the animal kingdom. Placing theory on the scales of justice and weighing it against practice can produce similar results to contrasting playing with a puppy and singing with a blackbird.

One quote comes instantly to mind when examining this topic. I mean of course the words of nobel prize winner Augstin Shandy 'political change changes politics, but where does it go?' [2] I couldn't have put it better my self. When it comes to the use of beta in bouldering this is clearly true. If I may be as bold as to paraphrase, he was saying that 'political ideals are built on the solid cornerstone of the use of beta in bouldering.'
I hope, for our sake that the use of beta in bouldering will endure.

Conclusion

To conclude, the use of beta in bouldering plays a large part in the lives of all. It collaborates successfully, 'literally' plants seeds for harvest,, though the use of beta in bouldering brings with it obvious difficulties, it is truly the use of beta in bouldering.

Here with the final word is Hollywood's MacaulaySpielberg: 'I demand the use of beta in bouldering, nothing more nothing less.' [3]

[1] Sir Bernard Chivilary - Interestingly... - 1904 Badger Books

[2] Shandy - Ice Cold - 1994 Pitter Patter Publishing

[3] Smashing Hits - Issue 224 - Jazz Media

Thanks to http://www.essaygenerator.com/

[slackline]

I must admit when i first heard the term i thought it was "beater" too. Now i know better.

Americans can't pronounce the world "Beta" correctly which probably compounded matters.

[dave]

"bay da"

[slackline]

"bay da"

 

[JamieG]

I must admit when i first heard the term i thought it was "beater" too. Now i know better.

Americans can't pronounce the world "Beta" correctly which probably compounded matters.

Actually i heard it from a welshman so that probably explains the confusion.

[JohnM]

Nobody sends a route these days. You "realize the route"!

[Richie Crouch]

Or in Scouse terms 'you f*cking scaled dat lad!' 

[slackline]

b3ta

[simes]

b3ta

I've been recieving the b3ta newsletter for several months.

Its a guaranteed laugh.

[Jaspersharpe]

b3ta

I've been recieving the b3ta newsletter for several months.

Its a guaranteed laugh.

Brilliant! Must post it on the other thread..........

[Baron]

beta = be-ta = better