UKBouldering.com

pedestal arete ss (Read 2424 times)

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
pedestal arete ss
March 24, 2008, 05:30:10 pm
any yorkshire homies have the numbers on the sitter to pedestal arete? checked it out the other day but haven't had chance to try it yet. looks like a fine problem. ta.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1974
  • Karma: +120/-0
#1 Re: pedestal arete ss
March 24, 2008, 05:49:09 pm
7c/+ method:

Pull on with small crimp LH, arete RH. I then put right toe high on the arete, moved my weight onto it, and bounced RH to the good sidepull. Left heel on little edge to get awkward pinch with left hand, bump RH around the arete to a sloping dish, then I think I put my left foot near or on the arete to do the move up to the flatty.

7b+ method:

As above but with R heel on big hold to the R of the arete to do the first move. Not done this version though.

Stubbs

  • Guest
#2 Re: pedestal arete ss
March 24, 2008, 07:04:33 pm
For the heel on method:

Left hand starts on low crimpy sidepull about 10" left of the arete, right hand on arete sidepull, left foot on smear near the arete, right foot on pebble r of the arete.
-pull on, heel onto ledge, the further back the better
-rh up to obvious arete hold, some use it as a sidepull, i crimped the top of it.
-bump left foot onto obvious low foothold on arete to bring weight onto heel and rh
-left hand into vertical crimp/pinch thing
-rh onto pebble (or sloper below pebble) that you have for the standup
- to release the heel either toehook the first left handhold or just clamp your left foot high to help hold the release.
-as per the stand up

HTH

pppat

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 25
  • Karma: +0/-1
#3 Re: pedestal arete ss
January 15, 2010, 09:43:16 am
Ive done some of the moves for the sitter but have never attempted the stand up.
Does the stand up finish direct with a rock over?

Or do you need to traverse left for better holds?

pppat

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 25
  • Karma: +0/-1
#4 Re: pedestal arete ss
January 22, 2010, 12:51:28 pm
 :shrug:

Stubbs

  • Guest
#5 Re: pedestal arete ss
January 22, 2010, 01:13:18 pm
Either way are about the same, I go left, it's not eliminate, rock boulderise that mother any which way  ;D

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
#6 Re: pedestal arete ss
January 22, 2010, 01:39:11 pm
rock boulderise that mother any which way  ;D

That'd make a good sig  :)

pppat

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 25
  • Karma: +0/-1
#7 Re: pedestal arete ss
January 22, 2010, 02:17:00 pm
Tah!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal