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Chas Cooper's Vengeance (Read 7438 times)

r-man

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Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 01:11:12 am
Following on from this thread, I got in touch with Chas Cooper to ask him where exactly Vengeance was. Here's his reply:

"The problem "Vengeance" is located in Birks Quarry, off Huddersfield rd. Oldham. This quarry has been the subject of much controversy of late, due to a proposed landfill development. Because of this it is now private property and access off Huddersfield Rd. is no longer possible.

But there is no security on site and the quarry still attracts dog walkers. Access is possible off Hollins rd as follows:

From Mumps bridge, Oldham, follow Huddersfield rd, past large Tesco's on right, and tower blocks on left, past shell garage on left, continue down dip and as road rises look for Hollins rd. on left. Up Hollins rd. and park near last house on right, before road becomes single track. Just past this house is a vague path, follow this for 10min. and you will see the quarry. It's not very inspiring!

As you walk in, "Vengance" is straight ahead up the rough slope. There is blue graffiti on it. It is worth seeking out as it is very hard, with nice moves. Watch the finishing jug as it is a bit wobbly! To the left is a potential problem up the large block with the white graffiti."

I think it's probably .

Also, Chas says that he had no idea Nik's Wall was unrepeated, and that the style suited him so he can't remember the sequence.

nik at work

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#1 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 08:07:45 am
Also, Chas says that he had no idea Nik's Wall was unrepeated, and that the style suited him so he can't remember the sequence.
To me this suggests that he did it very quickly (in a few goes, in a session?). Which is an incredible performance. Very, very impressive.

I may head Oldham-wards at some point to check out Vengeance, I will report back if I do.

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 08:23:55 am
How long ago did he do Nik's wall?

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#3 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 08:29:29 am
I think March or April this year if I remember correctly.

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#4 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 08:31:46 am
I'm amused by the first result if you Google "nik's wall repeat".

It was repeated back in April this year.  Maybe since he did it so quick, it's time for a downgrade?  :-\

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#5 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 05, 2009, 08:25:49 pm
Was the blue graffiti 'CITY'?

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#6 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 06, 2009, 02:25:59 pm
I'm amused by the first result if you Google "nik's wall repeat".


That is rather amusing.  I didnt know Obe Carrion had a goatee..?

r-man

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#7 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 06, 2009, 05:32:46 pm
Was the blue graffiti 'CITY'?

Dunno. He didn't say.

nik at work

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#8 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 03:15:23 pm
I found myself working in Shaw briefly this afternoon so ventured out to find Vengance.
However I didn't have any climbing stuff, or the info about where the problem was, or anything else. The only thing I could remember was blue graffiti. I managed to guesstimate the location using phone sat nav and found the quarry fine. I saw several pieces of blue graffiti, both light blue and dark blue, but nothing that stood out to me as a 7C :shrug:. It was all a bit damp though (and it really is very uninspiring) and having no boots, chalk or mat I couldn't pull on anything so maybe it is there but only reveals itself to someone commited enough to climb. Anyhoo's I fear I'm in no rush to revisit the place anytime soon, but if anybody else ventures here I would be interested to hear what they unearthed....

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#9 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 03:50:01 pm
That's hardly the spirit Nik. Just tell us it suited you, you made a fast repeat, but you forget how. Then cycle home.

GCW

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#10 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 03:52:31 pm
Noone would believe that, his knees are too tiny to cycle.

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#11 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 04:01:00 pm
He would have cycled but he's lent his bike to this bloke.


nik at work

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#12 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 05:24:20 pm
To be clear I'm not saying the problem doesn't exist or isn't 7c. Just my brief glance around the dingy quarry didn't reveal it, and I feel no desire to return (and I'm certainly no hater of green quarried rock).
Panton/R-man any photo's of the line?

r-man

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#13 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 06:09:30 pm
Got no photos - only a written letter, containing what I posted previously.

I looked at his directions using google map, and it looks like they take you round the back of the quarry, from where Chas says the problem is "straight ahead, up a rough slope". Did you come in at a different place, maybe?

:shrug:

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#14 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
November 13, 2009, 07:01:18 pm
After coming home and reading the directions I'm sure I was in the right place, I had a scoot round to see if there was another quarried bay or anything but no joy. Like I say I didn't pull on to anything so it could be that I looked at the line but didn't realise it. Maybe I do need to go back when it's dry and try actually pulling on, but if there is a photo (Panton?) floating about that would help. Also I only had my phone camera with me, which for some reason has stopped working, so couldn't even get any photos, grrrrr.

GCW - you're just still smarting from last nights spanking on the board you bitter lankster.

r-man

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#15 Re: Chas Cooper's Vengeance
January 16, 2016, 06:46:12 pm
Charles sent me some details of all the Birks quarry problems, including some phone pics with lines labelled, which I've uploaded to pb.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/206-birks-quarry#.VpqPkvmLSds


 

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