[grimer]

An angel of death has visited itself upon the rhodedendron mass at the base of what had the makings of being a fine crag.

Was there the other day and it has been revealed in all its glory. I saw routes where before I had bever seen buttresses. Saw Master of Suspense for the first time.

If anyone wants somethin a lill bit different (you really only need a very low-power pair of Esoteria Goggles) good routes across the grade, a handful of boulder problems and less than 10 minutes from the road, now's the time to visit.

[Bonjoy]

Has there been quite a bit cleared since I saw you there last then? Any pics to hand? Might have to have a look soon. Still some unfinished business...

[tallsop]

Andy's done  loads of clearence  up there, its like a  new crag, much better! He's done a few new lines that hes liberated. Get up there,its wicked, master of suspense  is one of the coolest looking buttresses in the valley, wicked route too (easier if your a lank-master).

[Sloper]

An angel of death has visited itself upon the rhodedendron mass at the base of what had the makings of being a fine crag.

Was there the other day and it has been revealed in all its glory. I saw routes where before I had bever seen buttresses. Saw Master of Suspense for the first time.

If anyone wants somethin a lill bit different (you really only need a very low-power pair of Esoteria Goggles) good routes across the grade, a handful of boulder problems and less than 10 minutes from the road, now's the time to visit.

Did you find that viet cong platoon that didn't know that the war was over? Or have they all been eaten by the dinosaurs that still roam those parts?

[tallsop]

Havn't found the VC but i did spot a few Velociraptors trying to repeat 'river of life' the other day.

[Fiend]

Turningstone Edge is great in various ways. It would be much better with dinosaurs wandering around though 

[grimer]

If anyone really... like, italic and bold, really... wants a very up-to-date topo for here B4 the weekend, let I know.

Could be good.

[SA Chris]

Havn't found the VC but i did spot a few Velociraptors trying to repeat 'river of life' the other day.

bet those 6" razor claws weren't ideal for slopers, but great on crimps.

[Andy B]

Have the rodie clearances affected Finger Bang at all? As I believe this relies on thick rodies for a soft landing.

[Idol eyes]

Love this crag..
There is a wall somewhere in the woods, its a little similar to Hale Bopp at Frachard (?)... think it got done? (didit?)

[tallsop]

Not sure what you mean, i did the wall to the right of master of suspense if thats what you mean?  its well safe with  pads on the ledge, graded it E5/E6 6c, but  not sure, ive not done enough hard routes to be certain on a grade. It hasnt had a repeat yet, would be interested to get  somebody elses opinion. Its  called Rough Diamond.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=133502

[Bonjoy]

Finger Bang is the roof/lip under Jay Walker on the Happy Landing Buttress. We did it with pads balanced on top of the bushes, making ita lot safer than if the bushes weren't there.

[tallsop]

Pretty sure the bouncy castle under fingerbang is still there, mmost of the clerance is on the top of the buttresses.

[Andy B]

Sorry, I thought that you were replying to Pat.

[Idol eyes]

The wall I tried is 5 mins from the crag!!! (walking).

[dr crimp]

5 mins in which direction?towards cocking tor or't t'tother way toward overton?

[Ru]

Have the bushes been removed from next to Sale Goose? I think the landing would be a bit spooky without the bush fence.

[dr crimp]

no.but its still spooky!

[dave]

Love this crag..
There is a wall somewhere in the woods, its a little similar to Hale Bopp at Frachard (?)... think it got done? (didit?)

it think it got done static. mawson etc?

[tallsop]

Have the bushes been removed from next to Sale Goose? I think the landing would be a bit spooky without the bush fence.

not sure, andy sed he cleared up thre master of suspense/salle goose area but havnt been to see.

p.s. andy informms me that the ravers have taken to throwing bottles at the rock, be careful of glass. hopefully they havnt knocked the pebble off 'R D'!!!

[dr crimp]

ah.the wall you talk of is the secret dyno and yes it was done static(mawson).its on the turning stone itself.5mins towards overton.

[Offwidth]

More like anything from a minutes walk, through the correct undergrowth tunnels, to being lost forever. The Turning Stone is barely 100m away from the last good climbs. I think the best way to find it for those new to the place is to follow the paths under the crag (Overton Arete etc) from the main descent gully as locating the vague northern descent for the crag from above, if you dont know it, can be a problem. From the main central descent gully, head north under the crag until the northern descent path is reached. Start up this then head sharp right following the most open tunnels until an undercut block, perched on a head high platform, is reached (in under 50m). Climb this (V0- 4c), because its there, for the view and for orientation, then reverse and head round on the far left (looking out) to a rough descent to the nice wall with The Secret Dyno.

PS Andy has done some amazing work: I've never seen some of these climbs so clean (or not requiring a battle to exit). The crag can give good winter shelter from the westerlies, and if all else fails the Ashover pubs are impressive for the first or subsequent sends.

[Fiend]

Old Poets in Ashover is a tip top trip for a tasty tipple.

[tallsop]

yeah, they brew their own nowadays, they also seve some fierce ciders! 

[hstmoore]

Fancy a trip here for some trad but wondering about current state of  vegetation/dirtiness/hollow holds, which are mentioned on here and ukc. Not averse a bit cleaning, but..

Has anyone been recently?

Noticed that some of the FAs are done by UKB regulars... bonjoy and shark? Are the routes generally onshiteable, or do they require ab/clean? Also saw a mention of big cams needed for some routes e.g National Power... is this typically bigger than a big blue camalot?

Cheers for the advice!