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Almscliff 7 + 8 List (Read 34669 times)

uptown

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#75 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 07, 2009, 01:48:00 pm
 :yawn:

I can't speak for Tom but I think this is one of the best problems I've done on grit.
You can be objective on grade and quality when you've done it too.
However, I can't see the repeat floodgates opening on this one - it's a bit too old skool for most, the skills wouldn't be there.
I'll maybe dig out a photo with the lines on for ms and pw.
The landing is bad for pw JB, it adds to the experience.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2009, 01:55:16 pm by uptownguru »

T_B

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#76 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 07, 2009, 02:15:14 pm
What I was getting at is that it's difficult to see where the problem goes from below, as PW is the natural weakness. I'm sure it's a great problem, certainly a nice piece o rock

andy_e

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#77 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 07, 2009, 02:35:44 pm
difficult to see where it goes cos there's nae grips!

TomP

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#78 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 07, 2009, 03:51:29 pm
difficult to see where it goes cos there's nae grips!

I feel I should stick up for this problem.

Andi actually makes a good point. You literally can't see many of the holds on it so most people would walk past it. In fact everyone did walk past it except UTG.
I don't think it is eliminate or "tight". When the holds are chalked and you follow the line you cannot escape either way, making it a pure problem. Many worthwhile problems share the same start and divert off one way or t'other. I certainly enjoyed climbing it and thought it was as worthwhile (if not more so than others) as any other problem at the cliff

uptown

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#79 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 01:34:16 pm
I'll maybe dig out a photo with the lines on for ms and pw.

I took a snap of MK wall yesterday to illustrate lines and to encourage people out and about - take a sledge, some roasted chestnuts and a flask and have fun.



Red is Making shapes 7c/7c+/8a : the direct and central solution to the wall.

Green is Pistol whip original 7b+ : crux up the groove to get the small pocket then reaching left to the undercut and then high pockets.

Yellow is Pistol whip for apes 7b : reach into the small pocket from the jug out left. The higher yellow line is the TanmanTM 'emergency exit'.

Blue is Pocket problem 5c.

Just because no-one thought to climb the groove and wall directly before me doesn't make it an eliminate line, it's easy to shuffle out of problems as the recent links on Careless/NTBTA prove. They aren't 'tight lines' as a consequence.
Anyhow, enough justification - a pint from me at the Hunters for the next ascentionist,
if folk haven't put you all off trying it now.

Adam Lincoln

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#80 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 01:38:42 pm
a pint from me at the Hunters for the next ascentionist,

Keen for a look in the NY when i am back from Font.

Jaspersharpe

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#81 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 01:45:45 pm
For what it's worth, I think this problem looks amazing.

cofe

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#82 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 02:02:09 pm
I've just realised, looking at the pic, that pistol whip is high on my to-do list.

Johnny Brown

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#83 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 04:20:06 pm
Quote
Just because no-one thought was able to climb the groove and wall directly before me

Pistol Whip is great, I'm sure this is too. Keen to get back.

T_B

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#84 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 04:31:28 pm
ah, it all makes sense now. I have to admit my confusion stemmed from the piccies on yorkshire grit. this should really be captioned 'pistol whip original'

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__pistol_whip#photo

Johnny Brown

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#85 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 22, 2009, 04:38:12 pm
No it shouldn't, that's Pistol Whip. The lanksters variation to the left is just that...

El Mocho

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#86 Re: Almscliff 7 + 8 List
December 27, 2009, 04:36:18 pm
Anyhow, enough justification - a pint from me at the Hunters for the next ascentionist,
if folk haven't put you all off trying it now.

Can I claim my free pint please.

Very cold today so I was running out from behind the egg straight onto the problem. It was good though.

 

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