[dave]

I was at burbage south t'other day, went up to the far end to look for the John Welford v8+ rib problem thats mentioned on this site. Found it, looks ok but the rock wasn't very attractive though.

Nearby is what i belive is known as the "Impossible Groove", obviously clean and an excellent line. Coz i ain't bought an OTE for ages I'm a bit behind on recent developments, so can anyone tell me what grade this is, assuming its been done. It looks mental. :?:

Also i thought i'd better mention some problems over there have been excessively wirebrushed - I know they need cleaning, but when theres bristle scrape-lines in the actual rock its gone a bit too far. :!:

[Bubba]

I believe that it's still impossible, despite attempts by various strongsters, including the Moon.

Fantastic line though, eh?

So the brushers have been out again....grrrr..... not hard to brush without trashing is it? Use yer loaf people.

Did you do much else up there? Is it the secret bouldering mecca some people are claiming? Well, that's a bit much, but there's meant to be lots of nice problems up there.

[dave]

Still unclimbed eh??? Are you sure? i only ask coz a met of mine said it was V8!!!!

Yes its a monster line, i bet it will be one of the best boulder problems anywhere.

To be honest i didn't climb anything up there, although there were some obvious projects and loads of easier stuff. Some of it was wet, and other stuff was very green (there was no chalk on owt). didn't do as far as the little detached section at the extreme end, but it looked good from a distance.

I recon someone should sort out a topo for this place, cos then it might get some of the traffic it deserves.

[Bubba]

Hmmmm....not so sure but could be entirely wrong of course. Senility is hard to accept.

I was talking to someone t'other day - I tink it was Chris Davies when the Beris crew came over and I'm sure he said it was still impossible.

Two lines of thought on a topo - yes, it might be good to have some extra traffic, but no, it's nice to have some bits of Burbage that aren't over-climbed/polished/like a climbing wall on many weekends. I'd go with the latter version personally. Maybe a topo that's not on general view?

[dave]

To be fair, i don't think its ever gonna have the mass appeal of the burbage south boulders, but yes i could live with a "for your eyes only" secret mafia style freemasons underground clique topo.

[Bubba]

Yeah, one leg of your S7's at knee height and a wiggle handshake will gain entry to the lodge  

[dave]

You mean like a cross between Timmy Mallet and Boycie? Unreal.

X

[Bubba]

That's too scary to contemplate  :shock:

[mark]

As I understand it, the impossible groove itself is still unclimbed. I believe Johnny Dawes has climbed the arete to the right using the right hand side of the groove for his left hand. He called it Desparete and gave it E4 7a.

No topo! Keep it quiet. Good to have somewhere empty but still easy to get to for those times when you want a bit of peace.

[whispering nic]

In the nicest possible way, and I hope Chrissy baby would be the first to agree...others may hjave a better judgement as to wether a grit groove is climbable :shock:

[Bubba]

Yeah, but he'd been over climbing with Bent Spoon who should have a damn good idea  

[Omega]

ok - checked out the impossible groove/rib area on saturday.  IG certainly looks fierce but the rib is a fine little problem.

anyway, a group of us wandered left looking for moffat's Intense thingy (which i take it is the small quarried face with a starting slot and some really shite crimps) and found a large, slightly overhanging green wall just left of Intense.  its kinda green but has some really slopey holds and a starting pinch that was just made for climbing on.  the top out is high and covered with heather but its a cracking line nonetheless - anyone know what this is???  seemed quite tricky

[chris]

if its the problem i think you mean: about 5 metres to the left of moffatts intense, start in two good slots and crank up and right round/over the bulge, topping out just right of the arete/corner.

its been done a million times before, i climbed it with the aforementioned john welford, slopey and very good..about v6 (maybe easier)

that intense is very, very hard, even john welford reckoned it was desperate, so god help the rest of us!! :shock:

[Omega]

cheers - that sounds like the same one.  v6 seems about right for the standing start.  sitting start looks a lot harder.