[awood]

HI guys, Off up to Scotland with the Family and wondered if there is any bouldering around Durness/Cape Wrath area worth mentioning?

Cheers

Andy

[Nigel]

I was up there last September, wasn't climbing mind so nothing too firm to go on - afraid it rained too much when I was there for any first hand info to be forthcoming! However along the few miles of coast between Durness and Loch Eribol there are quite a few little inlets with lovely sandy beaches which have small "mini walls" at each side, I'm sure you'll find some sport on some of these outcrops.  Looking in my brank spanking Scottish Rock Volume 2 tells me that Sheigra ain't far, which although a classic sea cliff area may well have some class bouldering too? I'm sure one of our Scottish representatives will advise you of the potential or otherwise here? It also mentions Sandwood Bay as having a bouldering wall. This is meant to be a must visit place for the beauty and solitude as it is, so should be on your list already.

Don't know about Cape Wrath as I didn't go there either, however the chocolate factory at the Cape Wrath craft village serves hot chocolates/mochas that will have you tripping for days.

Smoo's Cave at Durness is an enormous limestone cavern which may have some overhanging limestone stuff on but it will prob be soaked, an epic to clean, and I imagine an SSSI knowing Scotland. There is a boulder there too but it looked crap for bouldering to me.

Other beta: Durness itself has few graces. I think that is the most tactful way of putting it. The road to get there is very "Scottish" indeed from around Laxford Bridge, remember a camera/not to bring a caravan.

[SA Chris]

There's a fair bit in that area. I would recommend taking a walk out to Sandwood Bay, one of the most gorgeous beaches in the country, with some good quality bouldering abouve the beach on immaculate water washed Gneiss. There is also the bloodstone near Rhiconich, which looks good, but heard mixed reports. Scattered either side of Oldshoremore beach are loads of boulders and small buttresses, plus some potential for deep water soloing. Details are in the Stone Country Bouldering in Scotland Guide. There is also potential around the small beach at Sheigra (pebbly sandstone as opposed to the Gneiss), and on the small island just along from there. An OS map would be very useful.

On the way up you will pass Ardmair, which has some nice bouldering in a cave above a pebble beach, and won't be too far from Reiff in the Woods. As said, Durness is not the most scenic of places, but has all you need (check out John Lennon tribute from his family holidays there) But there are some great beaches, mountains and loads of good quality rock.

[Fiend]

There's a large and almost certainly unclimbed wilderness quartzite boulder field nearish Durness. Would need some cleaning and a few pads, potential for maybe 20-40 good problems......

[SA Chris]

I think it's gneiss? The whole NW corner is littered with unclimbed stuff.

Anyhoo, here's some guides

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ardmair_Beach

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Reiff_in_the_Woods

You can have a potter on some seawashed lime at the mouth of the cave, but more of a novelty than any decent bouldering. best wait til after the trips have stopped and staff have gone too.

[andy_e]

I think it's gneiss?

I'm sure it's very nice, if you say so.

I might be heading up this way at some point during the summer. I think anything you do find will yield pleasant problems on good quality rock, be it Torridonian, Gneiss, Durness Limestone, Quartzite or whatever. If you find anything decent it'd be great to hear about it!

[Fiend]

I think it's quartzite. I know what gneeeeess is, it's not the only rock in the area.

[andy_e]

I know what gneeeeess is, it's not the only rock in the area.

No, there's Gneiss (3 differing types), Torridonian Sandstone, Basal Quartzite, "Pipe-Rock" Basal Quartzite, Durness Limestone, Moine metasediments, Moine mylonites, various plutons of various ages and various composition, and some Triassic conglomerates too I think.

[andy_e]

Oh and the Scourie dykes

[Fiend]

Gaylord.

[SA Chris]

I know what gneeeeess is, it's not the only rock in the area.

Blah blah blah blah blah blah blah.

Yawn

[SA Chris]

Oh and the Scourie dykes

Is there more than one in the village?

[andy_e]

Yeah, she'd be bored otherwise.

[awood]

  Thanks for all the advice.... will make sure i take some pics of what i find.

Just picked up an OS map of the area so if any grid refernces are known for some spots around the Durness area? I hope to have a good explore on the beach crags but can't afford to wander around looking and not climbing!

Thanks again.... lets hope the sun shines.

Andy 

[SA Chris]

when are you away? I can give you a couple of GRs, but not now. Oldshoremore (Beg) is on the map, park at the cemetry and stay on the south end of the beach. For Sheigra, park by the other cemetry, and walk down to beach and there is a small island on the south side, plus some boulders above to the south of the beach. For sandwood bay, park at obvious carpark just the other side of blairmore (will be other cars and walk or mountain bike) best boulders are just the other side of the rivermouth (partially tidal).

[SA Chris]

when are you away?

Do you still want GRs or not?

[buddah of brodie]

hi there is tons of great bouldering in this area. the smoo block is sharp and a bit crunchy at the top but has inumerable variations whilst family explore the cave, again!the beach east of durness traighna h- uhamag (sangobay on cover on old os map) 658441 has enough for the imaginative whilst the beach is spectatular. if they are up to a walk then there are some exelent boulders below creag shomairle. further afieldthe road to sheigra has inumerable problems between rhicconich and shegra the most accessable at oldshoremore and polin. sandwood is definately worth the effort, bikes make the getting there much easier. the north end of the beach has 3 smaller beachs beyond the main, low tide makes access easier, mat not really required apart from the mega area between the second and third beach (its the insignificant looking crag above the beach, as good as anything in the uk!!)if you fancy a hill the track from achfary up arkle takes you past the split rock 426313, worthwhile but probably needs a clean
non climbing stuff, take colins cave trip, its a blast!!! watch tornados bomb the crap out of garbh island, visit handa island, be genuinely intimidated by the skuas, charmed by the puffins and wonderfull fresh sea food at tarbet, dave and pip say hi!