UKBouldering.com

New 8a at Hartland (Read 13482 times)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5033
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 01:10:11 pm
On Tom Newberry's logbook. Sounds intriguing, anyone know owt?

Quote
8A Supercede  Hartland FA world class!!!

jakes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 63
  • Karma: +2/-0
#1 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 03:12:02 pm
I know a little....others know more.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13681
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#2 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 03:34:28 pm
New 7b+ at Hartland
???

Jakes, my god, someone has managed to write a less helpful post than mine, hang on I'll try to mail order you a medal.

jakes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 63
  • Karma: +2/-0
#3 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 04:39:31 pm
anyone know owt?

I know a little....others know more.

sorry forgot to add the little man with the sticking out tongue...  :P

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#4 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 10:52:32 pm
can someone tell me what the fuck you're talking about?

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8175
  • Karma: +368/-38
#5 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 10:58:27 pm
Dense, there's a new 8a at Hartland.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8175
  • Karma: +368/-38
#6 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 16, 2009, 11:03:41 pm
Hartland is mentioned in the North Coast Beaches bit here.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#7 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 17, 2009, 05:42:54 pm
so what is fiend talking about?

Resonate

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 130
  • Karma: +2/-0
#8 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 20, 2009, 11:57:26 am
come on you gays, what's the deal?

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#9 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 20, 2009, 03:08:46 pm
Didn't realise he was giving it 8a???

The word on the SW grapevine is that the project to the right (or is it left? well it's in the vicinity) of the 'classic' Carnage (7b), was indeed sent by young Tom Newberry at some point last week.

Dave Westlake was there so will be able to give more details.  All I know is that it is a bluddy good effort on a long stadning project, nice work Mr Newberry!

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#10 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 20, 2009, 05:24:36 pm
errrrrrrrrrrrr.....   :-[  standing! 

It's hard

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#11 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 20, 2009, 06:11:45 pm
errrrrrrrrrrrr.....   :-[  standing! 

It's hard

Sounds dodgy..   The problem in question is right next to Carnage and is definitely one of the hardest in the area...  Didn't get to finish post due to work!

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#12 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 21, 2009, 11:29:01 am
This sounds good in relation to my other recent post on places to go  :) Any ideas if its quite an obvious line or eliminate?

chappers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1218
  • Karma: +26/-1
#13 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 21, 2009, 01:21:09 pm
come on dave westlake! out with it.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1861
  • Karma: +287/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#14 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 21, 2009, 01:24:39 pm
This sounds good in relation to my other recent post on places to go  :) Any ideas if its quite an obvious line or eliminate?

It's a pretty obvious line; the wall to the right of carnage via the obvious line of weakness. This is actually one of the best lines in Devon/Cornwall, so well worth checking out (and good effort Tom!)

Stu

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#15 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 21, 2009, 02:51:06 pm
I believe it is also possible to cop out leftwards into the finish of Carnage at a slightly easier grade.

By all accounts both Carnage and Tom's line (Supercedes?) are high in the quality stakes. 

Both problems need a collection of pads (at least 4) and a good spot to make them more friendly.  They are affected by tide, easiest to scramble down to beach and walk across to them.  Can be found opposite the route 'Canard'.  An overhanging wall.  Carnage utilises an obvious undercut and the new problem is to the right of this.  That just leaves the ridiculous looking roof crack in the same cave as Acheball!




Resonate

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 130
  • Karma: +2/-0
#16 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 22, 2009, 01:38:08 pm
So not a single photo then...

Andy W

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 632
  • Karma: +21/-0
    • http://andywhall.com/
#17 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 22, 2009, 02:17:37 pm
yea I'm looking forward to a photo, even a photo of carnage would be good. I found quite a few few of the problems when I was down that way a few years ago, but never found Carnage. I did find and do 'wet bootie' which doesn't look as good as in the OTE pic, not does it have much resemblance to Karma, But I can see what Simon Young was getting at just!

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5805
  • Karma: +187/-5
#18 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 22, 2009, 03:02:07 pm
yea I'm looking forward to a photo, even a photo of carnage would be good. I found quite a few few of the problems when I was down that way a few years ago, but never found Carnage. I did find and do 'wet bootie' which doesn't look as good as in the OTE pic, not does it have much resemblance to Karma, But I can see what Simon Young was getting at just!

photo of Ru on carnage courtesy of dark peak image homies:



more here.

chappers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1218
  • Karma: +26/-1
#19 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 22, 2009, 06:06:22 pm
dave? dave?

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#20 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 23, 2009, 03:17:48 pm
Quote
dave? dave?
:lol:

I think Dave's keeping schtum or going all anonomous on us...  Saw some nice photos taken by Dave of Tom on said problem and others on Carnage last night..  Come on Dave post up 'em up for the punters to see the quality.. 

The piccies made it clear that you can also start as for Supercede (which appears to be a very obvious line of vertical holds to a horrendous slopey finish, just right of Carnage), then traverse leftwards into the undercut of Carnage and finish up the end of this.  (It's Dave's problem.. called Corridors of Power??)..

Dave? Dave?  ...........................................

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#21 Re: New 8a at Hartland
April 23, 2009, 03:55:36 pm
dave? dave?

Sounds like a Radio 1 jingle.

granticus

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +25/-2
#22 Re: New 8a at Hartland
June 01, 2009, 05:39:34 pm
Heard on the grapevine at the Northcott bouldering meet last night (great turn out 30+ peeps, beautiful weather, bemused tourists and good surf all came together for us BTW, thanks for asking!).. 

Tom Newberry sent the sitter to Supercede on Saturday, still at 8a apparently but an explanation for Dave's silence on the matter, he was after the 1st ascent on the sitter!  Dave's still probably keen for the 2nd ascent so will want to  :spank: me for telling you all about this.  Suffice to say it looks like a class problem.  No name yet but 'Superceded' would make sense? 

Can someone please upload some piccies for the punters to see?  Dave?

Whilst we're at it, big ups to Mikey Cleverdon for sending Red Quinnie at the meet yesterday, he is also mighty close to the project 2 the left of this which looks sick and will be somewhere in the 8s. 

chappers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1218
  • Karma: +26/-1
#23 Re: New 8a at Hartland
June 02, 2009, 02:49:45 pm
ive seen pics. it looks class.
but...its still in fucking devon. no matter what you say dave, that says it all.

effort by Tom.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#24 Re: New 8a at Hartland
June 03, 2009, 07:34:53 pm
i'll second chappers. not up a route, none of that scary shit

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal