[Jaspersharpe]

I see from Mr Varian's blog that he has completed one of his projects. A one move 8A into Mick Adams 8A+/8B Serenity.

Seeing as these are the grades that Dan has quoted I expect them to be on the stiff side. So what grade does that make the whole thing other than "fucking hard"?

Bon effort Beast. 

[dobbin]

I was chatting to someone about this in the week and at the very minimum its got to be 8B, but apparently theres some discussion around serenity being 8b in the first place which makes this 8B+!!! waddage!

[Jaspersharpe]

Well that's what the maths say to me.

[n_man]

If the vid is serenity what move does he add onto the start? Is it a sitter?

[Monolith]

Good effort beast!

Nice also to hear Ned did the middle line. I had this as a long term project prior to the new hold morphology although it was pretty much unusable as it cammed your fingers into a disgusting niche in that state. Good work team beastmaker!

[r-man]

I heard the middle line also went at a surprisingly low 7c. Is that right?

[cofe]

christ. did they get BB Guns to grade it?!

[dave]

as long as they didn't get him to name it.

[Bonjoy]

I think a broken hold was re-attached, hence the line going at an affordable grade now rather than ages ago.

[Monolith]

Yeah, the hold prior to breakage was good but unusable if you can fathom what I mean. Being steep, it cammed your fingers in. Can't wait to see Mick's repair job. Heard it's a cracker.

[fashionguru]

Dan made a fine effort on his new problem, but while he was at the crag did say that Mike's problem was 8b and his new addition did not take the grade to the next level. So I think what I am trying to say is Serenity is now considered 8b (fine effort to Mike I think on this one) and Serendipity is hard 8b.

The only thing that spoils serendipity for me is every thing else at this crag is none eliminate and as Dan has eliminated the large ledge as a foothold it is in my eyes an eliminate problem.

The new problem to the right is also a classic addition and should be a crag classic for most people at the grade. The hold has been made a little larger when repaired but still its a classic and worth the effort.

Great effort by all and a good day out boys

Hope the thumb has heeled Dan

Cheers

Tony

[Jaspersharpe]

Dan made a fine effort on his new problem, but while he was at the crag did say that Mike's problem was 8b and his new addition did not take the grade to the next level. So I think what I am trying to say is Serenity is now considered 8b (fine effort to Mike I think on this one) and Serendipity is hard 8b.

That's Dan's grading system/logic though right? i.e. It's not as hard as Shadowplay so can't be 8B+. 

Obviously this is pure conjecture but if you have an 8B and add a one move Font 8A onto the start then you are unlikely to only raise the grade to "hard 8B". It doesn't add up.

Time will tell I suppose. Looks an amazing problem whatever.

[c3po]

Sounds like solid 8B+ and Shadow Play got graded ft8C by GASKINS and so is probably euro ft8C+/9A Word to the Beastmakers!

[dobbin]

Ned did Serenity yesterday.

[jimbo]

Just out of interest where is Serendipity ?

[a dense loner]

half a move below serenity

[nik at work]

Shit Dense that was almost funny. If I wasn't busy doing something else I'd wad you. Oh well, next time maybe hey...

[Adam Lincoln]

Shit Dense that was almost funny.

I chuckled.

[jimbo]

half a move below serenity

Kind of walked into that !!

[nodder]

Where is it?  Can we have some directions? What else is there at the crag? Looks cool.

[Doylo]

Access issues dave, don't worry though i have some connections in sheff, i'll get us in there 

[account_inactive]

I'm pretty sure the access is OK here

Other things in the area to entertain you too that a local would be useful for......

[nodder]

dogging eh, knew they wanted those beasty fingers for something else.

[nodder]

is it that craig david place?

[a dense loner]

no its just around the corner