Quote from: slack---line on April 18, 2010, 09:12:42 amEducating people to respect rock has nothing whatsoever to do with the grades that are used for boulder problems.True but it has a lot to do with where the uneducated end up going.
Educating people to respect rock has nothing whatsoever to do with the grades that are used for boulder problems.
Surely a decent guide to Sounthern Sandstone would sort that out, and help with the education (guide for S. Sandstone I've got is pretty old and gives most things English Tech grades not sure if there is a new one with V/Font grades that those who've only been indoors would understand).
Yep there's an excellent guide that(sensibly) uses Bleau grades.Unfortunately the same cannot be said for any of the walls in London.The result - total confusion.
Yeah cos climbing inddors is so much like real climbing
Indeed, V grades are about strength, stamina and power; font grades are about technique, balance and skill.
Each area in the US used to have its own grading system, from Smith Rocks in the north down to J Tree in the south.
The V grade was only invented in the early 90's, it's spread is like the clap, just because it's popular doesn't necessarily make it any good.
One of the reasons it's used here is because of the attempt to come up with a brit specific bouldering system, the B grade and that this was easier to correlate with the V grade than with font.
but seriously which do you reckon a strong newbie would be more likely to do, 45 degree wall at Hueco or l' angle jean luc?
As for V grades being about power etc, my tongue was firmly in my cheek but seriously which do you reckon a strong newbie would be more likely to do, 45 degree wall at Hueco or l' angle jean luc?
The grades for areas/rock types point is still ludicrous. Its like claiming that if an object can be described in one language then it is inappropriate to describe it in another. This is clearly merde de monsieur le vache.
Quote from: clm on April 19, 2010, 08:56:40 pmThe grades for areas/rock types point is still ludicrous. Its like claiming that if an object can be described in one language then it is inappropriate to describe it in another. This is clearly merde de monsieur le vache.The truth.
Would anyone have the guts to argue that the Brit tech scale works well for sustained crack pitches?
I'm with Callum on this one. I notice font grades work fine on peak limestone and the cave.
I'm not 100% convinced. Grade scales derived in one area to accurately describe the difficulty of problems (similar style) there are likely to be more appropriate than others derived from something else. Your language anaology doesn't hold true; there are certain words within languages that DO NOT have a direct translation, just like 7b+ between V and Font.
I love this, I can imagien Cockfax weeping into their decaff tea when they read this stream of pure drivel.Now what's your favourit biscuit and is Mick a cvnt?
The language analogy isn't brilliant. I think inches and centimetres would be more appropriate. 12" doesn't have a direct translation in cm, does that make it a less valid measurement?