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Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof! (Read 10108 times)

JohnM

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#25 Re: Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof!
March 15, 2009, 12:46:08 am
While i'm at it I thought V5 and V6 was right for the other two problems.  It might have to just felt harder Jamie cause the holds are pretty small to pull on as a warm up!

Pantontino

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#26 Re: Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof!
March 16, 2009, 11:53:58 am
Glad you enjoyed yourselves.

Not sure about the bad landing comment though - I thought this was fine with a few pads and a spotter. Apart from the (flat topped) block, it is pretty flat.

Seepage can be a problem on the small hold just before the long first joint edge, although I don't think there is much of a grade difference missing this out (as Jon did on his ascent).

Your sequence sounds similar to mine. And if it's any consolation, I still reckon it'll end up as 7B+ - Jon is just exporting those fierce Indy Wall grades to the great outdoors!

chummer

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#27 Re: Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof!
March 16, 2009, 11:27:00 pm
Quote
Jon I didn't use a double heal toe lock!  I meant sequentially.
  I thought that would be pretty funky :lol:

Yep, shame about the wet holds, kinda off putting especially when sortin out a sequence.

Quote
Its just a shame it doesn't lead to a good top out
Aye indeed, maybe more akin to a cave problem then Jerry's then  :-\

Cheers for the feed back and the keeness John, i dunno why jamie didn't warm up on the juggy warm ups, he does like his crimps :P

And Si, we'll see who's right about the grade... :beer1: your round?




superfurrymonkey

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#28 Re: Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof!
March 17, 2009, 07:42:57 am
Jugs what jugs? Problem is I think I may be jug blind and It's buggering up my ability to warm up properly hence my failure on the main event.  :-\

Pantontino

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#29 Re: Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof!
March 17, 2009, 10:27:53 am
And Si, we'll see who's right about the grade... :beer1: your round?

How many pints are we betting on - just a whistle whetter or a whole session? Could be an expensive night out for you Jonny boy!  :beer2:

 

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