[andy_e]

Hot off the press! Tom Peckitt has just climbed the full Bulbhaul link-up just before a snow-shower today (4th march). He's been trying this for a while now and is mega-chuffed. No grade yet, but in comment about this he said, "Dunno. It's hard," saying it's probably harder than Real Keelhaul which he reckons might be hard for 8b...

 

Good effort to the lad, no doubt there'll be a few jars sunk in the Hunter's tonight!

p.s. If mick ryan wants to copy this news story then at least have the decency to ask me or tom first.

[slackline]

No idea of the line, but good skills Tom.

I reckon you're on dodgy ground keeping it under wraps from UKC, after all its a public forum here, and besides, what's your stance on Jack Geldard reporting it, does he have to seek permission too?

[andy_e]

dodgy ground maybe, legally i can't do anything but it's pretty rude all the same...

[slackline]

dodgy ground maybe, legally i can't do anything but it's pretty rude all the same...

Hmm, I doubt many of the reports posted here ask the authors for permission to recount the tail (e.g. recent postings of details and links to Tyler's blog, Chris Webb's doings in the US etc.).

You might have a bee in your bonnet about Mick Ryan, but you're not doing yourself any favours posting crap caveats like that, it just detracts from the news itself.

You'd be far better off getting some decent pictures, writing it up yourselves and asking UKC if they are interested in an article on a FA of a hard link up.

Just my tupenth.

[nik at work]

Is this Bulbhaul (i.e. with the chip)?
Or real Bulbhaul (i.e. without the chip)?

Does it finish with that other traverse off right or is that still on the to do list?

Anyway, good effort Tom must be pretty close to ticking the crag (if only there wasn't an old man doing some new old-skool technical vertical style problems that you youngsters do so struggle on.... )

[Bonjoy]

Effort! What does this link up and how does it vary from the thing Nacho did a month or so back (there is a facebook video of this somewhere)?

[monkey boy]

Nacho just did the finish to the problem, he started in the crack rather than at the beginning of c&a traverse.

Nice one t-bone

[andy_e]

Is this Bulbhaul (i.e. with the chip)?

Yes.

Does it finish with that other traverse off right or is that still on the to do list?

That's still on the list. If Gaskins and McClure had a child, that person would be able to do this link-up.

What does this link up and how does it vary from the thing Nacho did a month or so back?

What Nacho did was starting in the break, what Tom did starts as for C & A traverse, adding a good few tricky moves and cut-looses etc. on to the beginning.

[GCW]

I thought the Bulb originally avoided the chip, using the sloper out right to get the Bulb?
But I may well be totally wrong.

[nik at work]

I think your totally wrong.

And I also think Nacho did the end of real keelhaul rather than the bulb.

But mostly I think that my wife makes a mean chocolate cookie.

[GCW]

I think your totally wrong.

Most probably true.

But at least my grammar is better than yours

Good effort Tom, before we get too far off topic.

[andy_e]

The bulb is basically eliminating the pocket on the Keel, as well as being a left-hand variant. Nacho did the end of bulbhaul as bonjoy rightly pointed out, and there is a video on his facebook (which i doubt you'll be able to view unless you're his friend!)

[Jim]

But mostly I think that my wife makes a mean chocolate cookie.

She told me you enjoyed it

[nik at work]

The bulb is basically eliminating the pocket on the Keel, as well as being a left-hand variant. Nacho did the end of bulbhaul as bonjoy rightly pointed out, and there is a video on his facebook (which i doubt you'll be able to view unless you're his friend!)

No he didn't, or at least he didn't on the video I saw of him. He did Real Keelhaul from the crack (i.e. real keelhaul but without the C and A bit). The bulb goes out right to the bulb hold from the chip/lip then goes to a flatty above, Nacho didn't do this. Instead he went to the pocket above the chip, however he didn't use the chip. He did move slightly to the right before going up to the pocket, but not to the bulb hold. Or at least he did on the video I've seen. Which is the video Sausage posted on the significant repeats thread. If there is a different clip where he does Bulbhaul (or the end of Bulbhaul) then fair enough but the only clip I've seen is definitely the last bit of Real Keelhaul and not Bulbhaul.

[uptown]

Does it finish with that other traverse off right or is that still on the to do list?

Anyway, good effort Tom must be pretty close to ticking the crag (if only there wasn't an old man doing some new old-skool technical vertical style problems that you youngsters do so struggle on.... )

Rather handy that Tomboy.
This was impressive enough for me to drive out to congratulate him personally - this is the culmination of a lot of effort and many failures.
He had to readjust twice on the good finishing hold on the bulb (remember that rootask?) and I reckon he can now proclaim to be King of the 'cliff - the ultimate in gritstone monarchs.
MS still holds out though - He dropped the last hard move several times before darkness fell.

The full traverse link will be as good and as hard as gritstone shuffling gets, and the gauntlet is duly thrown.

Remember though - Yorkshire, links, eliminates and traversing are all terribly log and pointless.
 

[TomP]

Thanks for the nice comments

It's nice to finally nail it after many close attempts. I got rather bored of the boulder after doing Real Keelhaul and meant to come back to this. It's just another link at the cliff but definately worth it. The last move of both problems are so hit or miss after many previous moves. As for grade, I'm not sure. It could be as hard as 8b+ but I have never climbed that grade before. Someone watching me fail last week commented that it looked much harder than Never Ending Story in Magic, if that is anything to go by! I thought it was more difficult than Real keelhaul. Dave Cowl recently made a repeat of RKH but didn't confirm a grade. He's a highly accomplished boulder and thought it was much harder than anything he had done before. Nacho also did RKH and Bulbhaul from the crack thinking they were at least 8a+ from there. God knows....

p.s. If mick ryan wants to copy this news story then at least have the decency to ask me or tom first.

Can I just point out (and before it gets blow out of proportion) that Andie is NOT my agent I never said or implied that sentiment at all. That is his view. I have no problem with Mick or Jack (I don't know them) or UKC. I like this forum for quick news so when Andie asked to put a thread on here, I agreed.

I reckon you're on dodgy ground keeping it under wraps from UKC, after all its a public forum here, and besides, what's your stance on Jack Geldard reporting it, does he have to seek permission too?

Not bothered really

[TomP]

MS still holds out though - He dropped the last hard move several times before darkness fell.

Only just. That should have gone too! It was too dark by the end. May be get a lamp up there tonight. Really really nice problem UTG. Can't think of many better wall problems. Good height and just enough to keep you on. Much harder than Pistol Whip. Could be 7c+. You think you have seen everything at the cliff and it just keep on giving!!!!

[c.j.d.]

Nice one Tom - good effort.  Have you done Cherry Falls yet?  That should be on the list for a man of your calibre should it not - you could probably do laps on it from what I saw last time I saw you (by the way, I had a really, really bad cold that day, and extremely thin skin etc, etc). 

[TomP]

Cheers Chris. I've treid Cherry Falls a few times when I bored but never put any serious effort into it....probably because I thought it was really hard. On paper it should suit my style but there's something about it I struggle with. Amazing problem though. It's on my list, amounst many other problems that are probably out of my league at the moment. I suppose my next goal is to get Cypher in the bag, after a few close calls on that. I'm trying to move away from the Cliff more now!

I'm intruiged to know your method on Cherry Falls. I've hit the break when I've tried it just Dynoing from the crimp but it is almost impossible to hold that slopeyness. For the other method, I really struggle to reach that slopey dish out left with a heel toe in the low break. It looks to me if you can get that dish the last move is easier than just dynoing.

(by the way, I had a really, really bad cold that day, and extremely thin skin etc, etc). 

  although I didn't see you sneeze. I also have plenty of tape the you could have borrowed  The rock is so rough at Hunter's it wouldn't have made a difference. I don't think your heart was in it that day

[andyd]

bon effort mate.

[TomP]

bon effort mate.

Is that Doney? Andy Pershaw (sp?) said you'd been up North but I was away that weekend. Be good to catch up if your around again soon. PM me if you got plans for a visit. I'm afraid I don't venture south very often now!

[andyd]

indeed.  think i still have your number.  i have two.  one ends 07, the other 92.  i'll try em next time i'm up.  peak tomorrow i reckon
hope all's good, andy