[r-man]

I decided halfway through that if I came to another works lecture, I'd bring my own cushion. Cold plastic seats are not fun, even with thermal leggings. Could easily be solved though.

That said, I enjoyed the lecture. I didn't see the Ape Index one, so I had nothing to compare it to. Although it might not have been the slickest lecture, lots of little things Jerry said were very interesting, and gave an insight into his approach to climbing. Like putting tape round a hold to make it look like a pocket. Or that he thought the last 5 min of training were where you made improvements. Or that he couldn't really remember the grade of Superman ("8a or something").

Anyway, I did enjoy it, as did everyone I spoke to. I came away psyched to spend more time footless on roofs!

[grumpycrumpy]

Have you tried the Lantern Theatre Matt .... A great venue for  lectures , fully licensed and it's in the heart of Nether Edge .....

[cofe]

thanks for the feedback. i'll pass it on to jerry. i know he'll appreicate it.

was pretty pleased to bag this bad boy on sunday:



that's right. Le Saucisson and Jerry. spot the difference. the same muthaflipping room, the same muthaflipping time.

[dave]

hold on a minute si o'coefield, you've just hit the clone tool in photoshop. i'm on to you.

[cofe]

shit, you're right. I punched 'S', held down 'Alt' and starting clicking like a maniac. Should have stuck a full moon in for good measure.

[Ru]

Joe looks more like Jerry in that picture than Jerry does.

[roddersm]

What other venues is jerry doing? Has their been dates released?

[roddersm]

Ignore that last post just seen the other thread

[GraemeA]

Jerry is the one on the right? Isn't he?

[MattH]

Will look into the Lantern venue... Ta.

[Paul B]

has anyone else seen the new moonclimbing "hero" T-shirt?

Jerry fans... THIS is the T-shirt for you.

Anyone who likes Camo and a lot of it might also like some of the 'other' stuff. I suppose its all from the new eatswood line...

[GraemeA]

Paul, love your new signature apart from 2 things. Jerry Moffatt is not called Jerry Moffat. And I believe Jerry said that Malc went from 7c+ (or 7c whatever it was) to Hubble in a season by training on his bedroom board not on boards. 

Pedantic? Moi? Absolutment!

[GraemeA]

But we will be ordering lots of the Jerry Moffatt Hero and the Steve Bancroft Hero tee's tomorrow (assuming Bri hasn't already done so). So thanks for the heads up.

[Paul B]

I'd say put me down for one hero tee but I can't pick a colour.

Its not as if I can complain about people picking fault now is it  , so is something like this:

"Malcolm, the guy who climbed the second ascent... I think he'd climbed 7c+? this thing is 8c+ (Hubble video on screen). He spent the whole winter training on a wooden simulation of this (Hubble)... in his bedroom of his parents house (in his bedroom presumably). All... winter training on this wooden thing. He (Malcolm) came down and went from 7c+ to 8c+ in less than a year" Jerry Moffatt

more to your liking? It might just be me but it doesn't have quite the same ring to it?

[Jaspersharpe]

I don't care what Jerry said it's still fucking WRONG!!!

Paul is your sig quote from Jerry's book (if you've managed to get hold of it yet!) or straight from the squeaky one's mouth? Cos either way, it's blatantly wrong.

Malc did Magnetic when he was 17 and Hubble at 18 (it was over a year later I think). Still an amazing improvement but 8b to 8c+ rather than 7c+ to 8c+.

It's not like Jerry to exaggerate........

Graeme you should remember this unless all that fine wine has completely addled your memory. 

[Paul B]

*I can't hear you* 

[Jaspersharpe]

[Andy Harris]

My apologies Matt for both misspelling your name (actually it was the UKbouldering spell checker) and dragging you into this debate when clearly you had no involvement. I made an assumption that was clearly wrong.

I still stand by what I said as the unsuitability of said venue as a lecture event. Classically these events have always been in the winter (I assume again summer demand would be poor) and probably always will be. I also appreciate why some of the other venues mightn't have been perfect but I much rather it be jostling with more expensive beer and everyone is jovial.

I have no problem spending £10 to watch the living legend and think it's good value if the talk is at least ok/good (which it was) and the environment fullfills basic needs (our survey says uh uh). What I do object to in general is ill thought out presentations that are dull or badly presented. If these guys are touring the world giving slideshows they have a duty to pull together the best presentation they can and take feedback and work on aspects that may be lacking. And these days the audio visual side is stunning but the story / language part is often the problem. I know that 90% of these guys would appreciate constructive criticism and try to develop what they are doing but is anyone being honest with them? In the corporate world this is one of the most important ways to develop yourself.

Graham it's interesting you were warmer than me as we probably share a similar body fat content. Here I go with another assumption but I guess you were £10 warmer than me + your share of takings. Must make the cold seem positively Caribbean .

As for r-mans comments, Jerry made me aware of the Dominator pocket things years ago and I have made use of it on several occasions. Sometimes I tell other people about it but you don't want to give to many secrets away. Siobhan was having difficulty on Red Rose in Magic Wood. I regailed the story, took out the tape and she sent it next go. Unfortunately you can't just cover your favorite projects in tape and send them easily. I have another Jerry tip for getting your foot a good 4 inches higher than you can without this little bit of Moffat magic. Ask me next time you see me and I might share it with you as long as you keep it a secret.

[dave]

the thing about the tape dominator pocket is also mentioned in the heinz zak yosemite book from a few years ago now, in the genius chapter written by jerry, including similar tips about microwaving blocks of chalk and dieting in yosemite etc.

[GraemeA]

Me, Sam and Percy have special thermal garments made out of £50 notes. They provide amazing insulation.

No way am I as fat as you you lard arse 

Graeme (not Graham)

[shark]

Did anyone else wince every time (about 4 times) he said he onsighted 'the Phoenix' ?

It came across to me that he had moved on in his life and this was all ancient history that he'd already half forgotten. The lecture was a bit of a letdown after reading the book but I'm still glad I went.

[MattH]

To anybody who didn't come down to the Works to see Jerry as they weren't psyched about the venue for a lecture - Jerry will be talking at 12.45pm on Saturday at the Showroom as part of ShAFF :-). He's being interviewed by Grimer...

MattH