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significant repeats (Read 4684691 times)

Grubes

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#3075 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2012, 09:41:04 pm
Got alot of respect for michele and his bold trad efforts. how many of the worlds top boulderers would come here for a few months a year and not only do the hard problems but also make good ascents of the bold trad routes. his ticklist from this winter and the last is just superb  :bow:
His efforts are unbelievable and his blog is fantastic too if you have not already read it.
He wrote one last year about getting grips to the grit and the high balls it was a great read and had some really inspiring photos http://michelecaminati.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/italian-on-grit.html

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#3076 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2012, 09:56:54 pm
good grit effort by MC given recent temperatures.

Some proper HDR hall of shame shit on his blog!

Paul B

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#3077 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2012, 10:02:00 pm
Probably old news to some, but yesterday Michele did New Statesman at Ilkley - superb.

Nice one. Not scared of the heat, eh. Ground up I wonder? Surely this is a contender. At least I remember someone (Bentley I think) suggesting as much with modern paddage.

No, he abbed it and tried a few moves on the grigri that day, haven't a clue previously.

I think there are a few obstacles in it being successfully ground-upped; mainly the gear isn't obvious (for instance a deep Ballnut [brillaint things] and a WC zero to start, ballnut higher and then a hex  :o) and I'd imagine a fair amount of people are going to struggle with that first span and maybe even the one higher up? Not yourself though Tom  ;D

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#3078 Re: significant repeats
March 31, 2012, 11:12:40 pm
Following on from Ashima's V13 at 10 years old Brooke Raboutou and Tito Traversa, both 10 years old, both climbed a 5.14a/8b+ on the same day.  The key to crushing big numbers is being 10 years old.

http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/514a-age-10

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#3079 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 08:07:38 am
Following on from Ashima's V13 at 10 years old Brooke Raboutou and Tito Traversa, both 10 years old, both climbed a 5.14a/8b+ on the same day.  The key to crushing big numbers is being 10 years old.

http://direct.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/514a-age-10

Apparently, having an odd name is important too...


Ethan

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#3080 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 06:44:08 pm
Ethan Pringle just repeated Jumbo Love!

Drew

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#3081 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 07:09:06 pm
Ethan Pringle just repeated Jumbo Love!

BOOM! I always thought it was going to be another Echo Wall (no-one would ever be bothered about repeating it).

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#3082 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 07:28:10 pm
Ethan Pringle just repeated Jumbo Love!

Quality repeat! Be good to see what he says about it.

Adam Lincoln

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#3083 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 07:33:40 pm
Ethan Pringle just repeated Jumbo Love!

Quality repeat! Be good to see what he says about it.

I would think its an April fool...

GCW

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#3084 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 07:41:23 pm
Really?  He's been trying it for a while.

Doylo

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#3085 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 08:02:34 pm
If it is it's a shit one. 9a+ climber does 9b shocker!!

Ethan

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#3086 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 08:34:52 pm
Ethan Pringle just repeated Jumbo Love!

Quality repeat! Be good to see what he says about it.

I would think its an April fool...

I assumed the comment he made about it being soft and Ondra would onsight it was the April fools joke, but who knows...

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#3087 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 08:53:12 pm
Sasha Digiulian is broadcasting it too?


Doylo

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#3088 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 09:21:06 pm
Maybe it is soft 9b??? Still sounds quite hard to me :w00t:

Adam Lincoln

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#3089 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 09:23:30 pm
April fool i tell you!

Doylo

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#3090 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 09:29:35 pm
April fool i tell you!

If it was reported you'd done it then i'd think it was an April Fool  ;)

Adam Lincoln

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#3091 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 09:35:37 pm
April fool i tell you!

If it was reported you'd done it then i'd think it was an April Fool  ;)

 :lol:

Robsons

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#3092 Re: significant repeats
April 01, 2012, 11:47:39 pm
 ;D seems we were the fools!!! (not you Adam)

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#3093 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2012, 11:47:50 pm
Caff knocked off Bat Route at Malham today, the significance of this is not obvious really (given that he is capable of doing much harder, and it is hardly a second ascent) but the really rather manky conditions that he did it in (the whole top was visibly soaking) and the fact that it was lap 2 of the day after he fell on a '5a' move at the end, when a hold snapped on go one. Very impressive.

Stu Littlefair

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#3094 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2012, 06:46:20 pm
Was the crux bulge restored to its previous state, or is this the first ascent since the broken hold?

In other news Alex Barrows lanked his way up Mecca Extension yesterday. He's turning into a half decent climber...

Duma

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#3095 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2012, 06:48:16 pm
Can't wait for Aurë entuluva! to update...

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#3096 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2012, 08:21:04 pm
nice one Barrows, stick it to Bob

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#3097 Re: significant repeats
April 11, 2012, 08:46:06 pm
8c+ for Johanna Ernst, Open Your Mind in Santa Linya!

Duma

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#3098 Re: significant repeats
April 12, 2012, 11:36:07 pm
Arjan's done Big Island and Satan I Helvete bas according to 8a.nu

 :strongbench:

edit: previous attempt on BI:

Grubes

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#3099 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2012, 12:31:04 pm
Mina has done preperation H Blog Post
did I miss this on here? Her first 8 in the UK?

 

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