significant repeats (Read 4708316 times)

Fiend · May 06, 2011, 06:23:19 pm

Keenus' account of Muy thingy: http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/muy-caliente-e10-flash-so-close.html for those who don't check the blog pile. Inspiring read, I feel for him!

Doylo · May 06, 2011, 08:50:06 pm

Quote from: Fiend on May 06, 2011, 06:23:19 pm

Keenus' account of Muy thingy: http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/muy-caliente-e10-flash-so-close.html for those who don't check the blog pile. Inspiring read, I feel for him!

Unlucky Darse! I would have been tempted to get the gear pre placed if i was attempting something groundbreaking like that, fair do's....

duncan · May 06, 2011, 08:57:06 pm

Quote from: Fiend on May 06, 2011, 06:23:19 pm

Keenus' account of Muy thingy: http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/muy-caliente-e10-flash-so-close.html for those who don't check the blog pile. Inspiring read, I feel for him!

Video of his Pembroke trip here. Someone who knows how to embed these things should put it in the quality chuffin' thread.

cofe · May 06, 2011, 09:21:51 pm

good vid. So he also onsighted another E8 (airdrawn dagger) and did an E9 FA? Not a bad week or so.

tomtom · May 06, 2011, 09:43:41 pm

excellent vid... though I think he meant to say he was a tiger at the end (if he is a partridge fan...)

Fiend · May 06, 2011, 10:40:56 pm

Good on him, more inspiration.

Jaspersharpe · May 07, 2011, 11:57:59 am

Fucking awesome. The most impressive week of trad climbing ever?

Adam Lincoln · May 07, 2011, 12:02:32 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on May 07, 2011, 11:57:59 am

Fucking awesome. The most impressive week of trad climbing ever?

lemony · May 07, 2011, 01:58:52 pm

Outrageous! Good video too.

Robsons · May 10, 2011, 10:57:56 am

Quality - some really impressive sends going down at the moment...exciting times!!!

Falling Down · May 10, 2011, 12:17:17 pm

Wow... makes those hard routes look very easy indeed. Well done James.... inspiring stuff.

Fultonius · May 10, 2011, 12:22:58 pm

Willackers has done the first ground-up ascent of Requiem - which was still the hardest trad route (or one of th hardest anyway) in the world when he was born (not sure if he knows that!)

Nice work Will!

Some photos here

GCW · May 10, 2011, 01:11:42 pm

Amusingly my old pal Craig P fell off with both hands over the top (it was wet) on the onsight, then never tried it again

Will Hunt · May 10, 2011, 01:15:42 pm

Probes · May 10, 2011, 02:55:10 pm

Not wanting to be padantic, a ground up could involve 200 lobs? It is a great effort to be sure... First 8a in the country

chris_j_s · May 10, 2011, 03:42:10 pm

James Pearson has done Quello Che Non C'e, 8c+, at Val di Mello on his first redpoint attempt.

...which is probably the best way to answer the ukc crowd currently debating whether his FA at pembroke is E8 or E9 (

no-one cares!)

Fultonius · May 10, 2011, 04:52:37 pm

Quote from: Probes on May 10, 2011, 02:55:10 pm

Not wanting to be padantic, a ground up could involve 200 lobs? It is a great effort to be sure... First 8a in the country

Could do, not sure how many attempts he had as I've been away during the seige (definitely double figures) but the top half is pretty runout and you take a good 40 footer everytime so still a pretty ballsy effort! Knowing Will, if he'd worked on a TR first he'd probably top rope it about 3 times and lead it after 2 or 3 attempts - I'm psyched he never resorted to TRing it!

Will Hunt · May 10, 2011, 05:02:37 pm

Gosh, he gets about a bit doesn't he?

willackers · May 10, 2011, 05:12:08 pm

I tried it a lot!

The crack took me ages to figure out but I figured out the head wall in a few sessions. I think I could have head pointed the route in a few sessions but I'm glad I stuck with the ground-up assault. It's the best ascent the route has had to date but there is no doubt in my mind that someone could on-sight it without much problem (Bransby? McHaffie? Dixon?) It feels about F8a and it's really safe, the only reason I took the 40ft whipper is because I fell going for the top and I had the cam in the wrong place! ha ha.

It's a 5 star route and I think you would struggle to find a better single pitch trad route

Topping out after having such an epic was a great feeling, here are some pictures that Jen Randall took.

http://alloureggs.wordpress.com/2011/05/09/ladder-man-conquers-requiem/

Slide · May 10, 2011, 10:25:03 pm

Good work fella

Robsons · May 10, 2011, 10:41:37 pm

Good work Willackers!

fatdoc · May 10, 2011, 10:58:15 pm

inspiring... the pics capture the event really well

well done mate!!!

turnipturned · May 10, 2011, 11:48:51 pm

Awesome inspiring stuff, such a good looking line too! Is that the three 8's as well?

Doylo · May 11, 2011, 12:18:42 pm

Mawons thoughts on James new route:
http://www.bigstone.co.uk/news/2011/05/11/Neil_Mawson_checks_in/

Seems to be a big discrepancy in the two french grades offered 7c+ and 8a+.

SA Chris · May 11, 2011, 12:21:44 pm

Good effort Will. But wear some brighter clothes for big sends in the future!