[tim palmer]

what is the approved patter/beta?  How hard for the grade?

[Stubbs]

Vid here
 http://moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=93

There's more toe hooks for your right that Tyler uses.

Most people say hard 8A, was on the old Yorkshire list at 7C+ but I think Mr Wainwright must have had a funny turn...

[tim palmer]

presumably the beef is off the ground is it?

[Stubbs]

The first few moves are relatively easy then there's 3 hard moves then the cut loose which I believe is the crux, after which you are into the V7/8 stand up. This info is provided with the disclaimer that I haven't done this problem, but I'm rubbish.

[Ru]

This is pretty much right, the hard bit comes after taking the 'coin' crimp with your left - snatching into the sidepull is tricky, next couple of moves ok, then hard cut loose. Top few moves are also droppable. Why aren't there more problems like this in the UK? Full value 8a I thought.

[dobbin]

The cut loose may well prove to be a redpoint crux. Take a couple of pads, or better still, a fat mate to use as a spotter.

[saltbeef]

Jim?

[TomP]

Once you've got the coin with LH, snatching the sidepull with RH isn't too bad if you can get a heel-toe in the good undercut lip of the starting hold. There's a bit on a knack to it. In fact, if you get it spot on the move can be done statically. Most people then do a dynamic move with LH to the good crimp but I know shorter people who have gone to the poor sidepull first. For the cut loose move, again, if you get your feet right you don't really need to fully cut loose. There's the good toe hook with RF and the trick is to get quite a high L heel. Then heel onto the coin to gain the good holds to begining the top-out.

I reckon every bit 8a. I know people who think it's very hard 8a and Mr. Buys (who obviously knows how to crank) thinks 8a+. I reckon if it were in Switzerland he'd probably be right.

Can't really think of many better problems

[chappers]

when jeewooth did this the other week i dont remember him cutting loose at all, just used feet well. he also made it look like a path.