[Banana finger]

Hiya, does anyone know where this problem finishes to get the 8a+ boulder tick. Whats the concencus.....I think its had about 5 ascents so i was just wondering if anyone knows where these five made a dive for the pads.
Futures x

[account_inactive]

Variable managed to make a dive head first from the head wall

[Paul B]

Can't speak for the finish but the difficulty of the start seems very dependent on the amount of paddage used.

[dave]

only person i've seen get anywhere on it was mick adams a couple of years ago who was repeatedly pathing the start adn falling off going for the high flake on the right.

[Andy B]

I thought that the boulder problem finished matched on the diagonal flake high on the right, as Dave says.

[Andy Harris]

I think to be fair it doesn't have an official boulder problem finish as it was done as a route so I guess it's down to concensus. I know Mick was trying to do this when he originally did it and I saw him take a horrible fall 10 times on the trot efectively ahving lapped the hard part about 10 times.

Additionally you can clip the 1st bolt from move 3 which would also build credibility for the boulder problem finish.

For me matching on good edge (ie move 3) is probably sensible as higher than this is not nice and a horrible fall. Not nice for a boulder problem. Sure it's harder to get to this flake but you've earnt the grade by the lower point.

[monkey boy]

I always thought the top flake was the finishing point but i do kinda agree with andy. The first move is definately the hard one and then getting to the big flake is just scary! Getting established and ready to throw is fine but then you need big balls!!

Be good to get a concenus though.

[Doylo]

I did the first move with one pad but yes it is height dependent (good effort Ru!). If your tall you can keepyour right foot on when getting the crimp. I think it should end on the second crimp (the one you cross over to). This is a boulder problem and is a reasonably obvious finish. Don't see the point in climbing past the bolt to a finish in the middle of nowhere, it should be 8a to the second crimp

[JC]

Does anyone have beta on how to get to the flake from the second crimp? How is it usually done?  Seemed to me like you get the small layaway crimp with your right, then kinda rock-over or something to get the mono undercut & then slap to the flake? Desperate.  ???