[Liam Copley]

Do you start as low as possible?

Any beta on when/how to get the toe hook in?

It looks like a good 7a, how would you rate it (soft/hard, classic/bad)?



Liam

[slackline]

or  there was a thread on this just the other day with a video of lagers' showing it all linked in.

[Steamboat Stello]

Heres a handy thread.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3767.0.html

If you can't reach between the undercuts and the good hold and have to use the short mans beta its a very stern 7a (i.e. I can't fucking do it). I've seen people piss it who can reach between the holds though so maybe its pretty soft.

[lagerstarfish]

Here's an almost totally unhelpful video - made in anticipation of a Crimes Against Video Editing Hall Of Shame thread being started.





Hopefully this will be a link to a more usefull video (when its finished processing)

[Liam Copley]

Thats a helpfull video thanks, he makes it look 'ryyt' easy

[lagerstarfish]

It is R8 easy if you're tall and strong 

Just noticed that I must have forgotton to deinterlace the vid whilst rendering - thats what caused my hands to turn into a pile of flickering horizontal lines when they move. 

[Baron]

Fires. Impressed.

[moose]

My beta is to watch out for that boulder underneath, because of it I'm typing with one elbow in a bowl of iced water!   

Sequence-wise, I got the left toe-hook in before matching the nose; I then readjusted it (moving toe behind the bit my hand had vacated) before getting my right toe on a smear on the lip and rocking forward for the high right hand-hold.  So long as you have adequate reach and the ability to toe-hook it seems to be a basic matter of left-arm lock-off strength.  Working out a topout sequence that felt a little less bunched and precarious was what demanded most of my time (a mistake as it proved!). 

[Jim]

I think the nose is really hard for the grade, mainly because I find the reach to the big sloper that lagers easily gets very hard.
I'm 5.10 +1 btw

[dontfollowme]

Lagers, what camera was that filmed with?

[lagerstarfish]

Sony HC27e, PAL miniDV. I also used a wide angle lens for some of the shots.

[dave]

assuming you can reach from undercut to sloper than by far the easiest way is this (i've tried and tested load of beta, and i'm sure this is the easiest now):

from RH sloper Lh undercut you walk feet up till you've got RF on a high hold on the side but under the roof (obvious when you're there), then left foot comes in to toehook (sideways, toe pointing towards remergence), this allows you to match the sloper and them move feet for the next bit without any bodytensiony moves, basically instead of having to push the toe up into the roof to stick it all just sticks without effort. the only downside is it assumes you can hold the sloper sufficiently enough. I never though this beta would be easier but after scouse showed it me i was converted.

[clm]

i used a particularly awful sequence when i first did it - out from the back to drag the long sloper with my left, a right heel on the starting hold then pull through to the decent holds, snagging the undercut with a toe to control the swing.  Hard that way but quite why anyone would wnt to climb it that way...

[GCW]

Where have you been, clm?  I thought you'd died!

You do realise that in the current financial state, he only owes you £12.50?

[Dr T]

done it a few times and never managed the toe or heel hook

if you guppy the slopers you can hold the swing with reasonable ease...

[a dense loner]

speaking of which clm, like bros said i owe u nothing, nothing at all. you can change your signature now

heel hooks on the nose? stop talking nonsense clm