[Bonjoy]

This is the defunct route which used to go at 8a+ just to the left of Let The Tribes Increase. It has been unclimbed now for a fair few year since loosing a crucial hold. It looks pretty blank where the hold came off. Has anyone tried this recently? Is it potentially possible in its current state? According to some guidbook or other Mike Lea has, or at least had, the missing hold in his possesion. Does anyone know if this is true? As it seems fairly likely the route isn't going to get done in its current state and would probably be a nasty grim route even if it did, perhaps it's time the hold got stuck back on. I'd be happy to do this if anyone who know ML can source said rock and nobody has any burning objections.
 And what about that project left again? Anyone know who bolted this? Does it even have holds? Perhaps it's time the numerous rusting bolts got stripped seeing as nobody seems bothered.

[travs]

I'll ask Mike about the hold, will probably see him at the weekend. As for the project to the left isn't that the route done by Steve Dunning or someone like that called 'My dogs got no nose' or am I just dreaming?

[Bonjoy]

I've heard that name given to it, but didn't know Steve had done it. Any idea of grade?

[travs]

Again I'm guessing here, and you're probably better off speaking to the geat man himself, but I seem to remember 8b+ being mentioned.

[Andy Harris]

Hi Guys,

I went on Eugenics post hold broke and as far as i know no one has repeated it. I managed the now much harder move and would guess it's at leas ta solid 8b maybe harder. You doa  big move again using the broken hold as an intermediate. Very fingery & sharp. It is on my list when it gets cooler.

The project to the right is an old Steve Fearne project and I seem to remeber pretty much impossible although maybe just superhard but possible if you are 6 foot 4.

[Bonjoy]

You mean to the left?
What do you think re Eugenics and gluing/not gluing hold? How minging will it be in it's new state?

[Ru]

I'm unaware that the proj to the left of Eugenics has been done. As Andy said it was a Fearn Bros project for many years. Like Andy, I've been on Eugenics, it's certainly doable in its current state, but not when its hot as I found. I think Steve Mac nearly flashed it in its current state too, but didn't try and redpoint it (this is hearsay and may be wrong).

[Bonjoy]

I heard he nearly flashed it in it's old state. This too is hearsay

[Andy Harris]

He actually almost onsighted it putting in the clips but falling on the easy bit as it was wet. I was belaying at the time. This was before the hold broke.

[Johnny Brown]

UKB, where HEARSAY + HARRIS = FACT

[GCW]

And:
FACT x IMPORTANCE = NEWS

[Nigel]

Because FACT into DOUBT won't go...

[Andy Harris]

Had a quick go on this last night and I can confirm the following

- more than 1 hold has fallen off
- it has the most unpleasant, crozzly sharp holds you could imagine
- it is brick hard (8b+ or maybe much harder)
- it is the shittest route in the Peak (some accolade)
- it would be more pleasant to cheese grate your whole body, then swim the channel full of vinegar and roll in salt when you got to Calais.

I can safely say I will never try this route again.

[dave]

even so, its got to beat horseshoe, right?

having reread this thread, the name suggested for the possible/steve/dunning exproject as 'My dogs got no nose' - wasn't this just the name of the old aid line there?

[Bonjoy]

Yes that's what I thought too. Had a close look and am now convinced by the lack of holds and thick black lichen that it hasn't been done. So much so that I've stripped it of the unsightly rusty bolts.