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North Devon bouldering info please? (Read 5404 times)

Andy B

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North Devon bouldering info please?
August 17, 2009, 12:23:40 pm
Does anyone have, or know of any topos or information on the bouldering on the North Devon coast, Hartland area etc please?


I've looked on Javu and penwith blocs with no success.


Also, any info on the best sea level traverses on the North or South Devon coasts would be much appreciated. We've already done The Magical Mystery Tour. Is The Watchtower at Daddyhole ok without ropes these days or is it too high/ shallow/ slabby to be safe?

Thanks alot.

slackline

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#1 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 17, 2009, 12:39:51 pm
It ain't Devon, but Exmoor isn't that far away in terms of distance so perhaps the Exmoor Coast Traverse would be of interest.

Andy B

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#2 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 17, 2009, 01:38:27 pm
Nice one, cheers, I'll have a read of that on the way down. Four days might be a bit much but I guess we could do sections of it.

chappers

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#3 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 19, 2009, 08:45:05 am
get onto Dave Westlake he knows a bit and might be able to direct you at topos ets...


granticus

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#5 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 20, 2009, 12:07:56 am
Quote
Does anyone have, or know of any topos or information on the bouldering on the North Devon coast, Hartland area etc please?

Topos for Hartland, Northcott, Sandymouth etc.. can be found in Simon (not so) Young's articles in back issues of OTE.  There is a little bit of info. in the North Devon and Cornwall CC guide.  Also worth watching Gone West (bouldering video). Apart from that info. is fairly limited.  Most stuff is tidal so head out around low tide.

Hartland Quay - Head NE of 'The Wreckers Retreat' walk along beach, you'll first reach 'The Trench' good up problems, a little further on is a large cave which contains Acheball (7c/+/8a) and an unclimbed roof crack.  A little further on is a small freestanding block with the sit start arete 'Clinical Edge' 7b and other bits and bobs.
Head SW scramble down to beach from car park and rock hop across.  Opposite the route Canard you'll find and overhanging wall containing classics Carnage 7b and Supercede 8a.  Next beach SW contains a boulder called the Rhino and what once was Hartland Roof but that has caved in!

Other areas are quite complex but would recomend these problems at Northcott - Red Quinnie, Red Quinnie Traverse, Ulterior Motive, Soul Structures, The Pinch.

Noticed there are some pics of Upton Roof in the threads r-man posted... unfortunately the roof was burried by rock fall and is well and truly stuffed which is a shame.

Quote
It ain't Devon, but Exmoor isn't that far away in terms of distance so perhaps the Exmoor Coast Traverse would be of interest.
Tis' Devon, traverse starts in Somerset and ends in Devon, it is also a proper adventerous mission, that'll take most a few days and not been repeated for time.

There is plently of bouldering at Lynmouth. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9143.0.html


Andy B

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#6 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 23, 2009, 09:43:26 pm
Thanks for all the info. Unfortunately we left for Devon on Monday night, but I'm sure it will be useful in the future.

duncan

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#7 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 28, 2009, 09:13:37 am
Is The Watchtower at Daddyhole ok without ropes these days or is it too high/ shallow/ slabby to be safe?

Probably too late ... but I don't think The Watchtower would make a good pure DWS.  I've only done it with a rope on (very good) but remember thinking the Thunderhole could be a nasty place to fall off: it's quite narrow and you might hit something on the way down.  It might be possibly to swim this section but this is total guess and would be avoiding the main event.  An alpine-style ascent could work, soloing for the most part, with a rope and light rack in a dry bag.

Andy B

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#8 Re: North Devon bouldering info please?
August 28, 2009, 01:05:44 pm
Cheers Duncan, that's good to know for next time.

 

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