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Top peak esoteric boulder problems. (Read 18776 times)

Nan

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#25 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 16, 2011, 06:41:45 pm
Is Project Quantum what is written up in the latest BMC guide as "the first obvious feature is a tower-like buttress with a rounded arete on its right (unclimbed)?
Looking in the book wolf edge it seems a good venue with quite a nice spread of grades supprised its not more popular

Drew

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Couldn't find anywhere better to ask this. Has anyone been to do Blair Witch Project at Plantation? Felt like having a look this afternoon after a play on the Hippo. I thought it was a good Font-esque problem. I was also wondering where people start. I did a low start with right hand on the slopey rail above the lip, and left hand on the small crimp in the break.

Bonjoy

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The old topbouldering.com site had a sit start listed for this at 7b+.

Drew

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

Bonjoy

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It was a long time ago. Grading has changed a lot since then (Brad Pit B13 etc.).

b3n99

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Salle Goose anyone? One of the best problems i've ever tried in the peak. Not massively esoteric but just so good!

BAndy

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I thought Quantum Leap was far better than Project Quantum.

Made in Sheffield at Houndkirk Tor is a great bit of esoterica. Nothing much to warm up on though unless you start at the other bit of Houndkirk.

Gritlad

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some good esoteric stuff in grindleford woods and tegness quarries. Particularly Emlyn's Generals Studies Field Trip and also Sub Rocc  :)

Dolly

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I thought Quantum Leap was far better than Project Quantum.

Made in Sheffield at Houndkirk Tor is a great bit of esoterica. Nothing much to warm up on though unless you start at the other bit of Houndkirk.
Is that on the continuation of the main edge ? I know its in the new guide but its not that obvious

cofe

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#34 Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
April 17, 2012, 11:58:42 pm
Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

leeroy

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Was just scanning the graded list in the guide and noticed a problem called burning lark sunset. It isnt in the guide itself so i just thought id ask what it is on here, as its been previously mentioned on the thread. cheers.

Nigel

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Cofe, I can’t believe you left this in the graded list after taking the description out! You idiot! Leeroy – probably the best problem in the Peak and open access but for other reasons we can’t go into it can’t be publicised. You’ll just have to find it.

JamieG

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Swivel finger on the Nth cloud. Totally amazing, although not that esoteric. Certainly doesn't get the attention it deserves.

Drew

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Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

The map here shows the location. It's definitely worth a special visit, but probably best to park in the layby near the quarry type hole.

dave

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Cofe, I can’t believe you left this in the graded list after taking the description out! You idiot! Leeroy – probably the best problem in the Peak and open access but for other reasons we can’t go into it can’t be publicised. You’ll just have to find it.

+1 awesome problem.

Jaspersharpe

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Must be amazing.....

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11151.msg189017.html#msg189017

Dolly

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Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

The map here shows the location. It's definitely worth a special visit, but probably best to park in the layby near the quarry type hole.

Great - cheers both. Will have a look sometime if it ever stops raining

Andy B

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Must be amazing.....

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11151.msg189017.html#msg189017

Trapped in Crow's Craws is actually at Burbage South (sitteer to Broddles Baby, if I remember correctly). Uncharacteristic error from Bonjoy there.

Nigel

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Exactly right, well spotted. Though to be fair, I don't think Jon was being entirely serious with that one, its nowhere near as good as the other two.

Bonjoy

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Best problem at 'the Brow' and that's saying something!

dave k

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

I did the FA of these two probs.

I think 7a for the stand-up is fair on Project Quantum. I gave it 7b, but it was pretty manky back then and I had to really battle to top out. Krank has since added the sit start. Might still be 7a. I certainly don't think he found it that hard surprised he didn't down grade it to 6b+!

Quantum Leap is one of my fav FA's and I reckon 7b is a fair grade, poss harder for the short/easier for the tall.

The Quantum boulder is a great piece of rock, in a great spot. Def worth a visit

Drew

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Good-o. Pity I was still talking about Blair Witch Project.

ferret

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

My problem from yesteryear, nice to see it occasionally gets climbed, nice problem but permagreen. To be honest dont remember the exact start holds but seem to remember starting sitting (im short and mats were thinner then) off two smallish holds, RF heelhooking and doing a move RH to the flat thing you mentioned. It may be more logical to start on the flat thing.
Grade wise I seem to remember giving it B8 (those were the days) as most things graded B8 are now 7a/7a+ then your grade sounds right, 7b+ must have come from some cockfax comparison chart if anywhere

Drew

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Hmmm... seem to remember starting sitting (im short and mats were thinner then) off two smallish holds, RF heelhooking and doing a move RH to the flat thing you mentioned. It may be more logical to start on the flat thing.
Grade wise I seem to remember giving it B8 (those were the days) as most things graded B8 are now 7a/7a+ then your grade sounds right, 7b+ must have come from some cockfax comparison chart if anywhere

Cool. It did seem like there would be a lower start, but I couldn't fit in to the gap, so just started with what I could reach. I reckon it's maybe 7A from sittimg, but could be 7A+ or 7B from your (extra low?) start.

 

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