[tomtom]

Bravo Geraint!

Its been a tough week - couple of big meetings at work - and I've had a cold/feeling wasted virus thingy for a fair chunk of the week. Thursday and friday were pretty much write offs - only getting 3-4 hours sleep with a splitting headache (and childcare on top of that etc..)

We: Back to Blackwell dale to tick Bovine. Cool temps (tick), Good connies (tick), three full days of rest (tick). Performance - terrible. Its a bullshit saying but it really felt like a high gravity day. Ripped a flapper warming up - everything felt hard and heavy. Had 4-5 great RP's at the problem, but failed at holding and working off the ear. I got quite cross (unusually for me) and a few handbags were thrown...

Th/Fri - Illness as described above - flapper may have become infected (finger swollen - pus etc..)

Sa: Slept properly friday night - got out to blackwell for about 10:45. Felt a bit weak and wobbly. Met up with Plattsy, Ian and Jen. Worked the start of Bovine (took about 5-6 attempts to warm into it), worked the ear move (never felt convincing). Then on the first proper attempt from the ground it went. No idea why - caught the ear perfectly, and the move up from there and to the top felt smooth and easy... very surprised and glad.

Well against the run of play - managed to get Bovine ticked (which felt great - though unexpected). No film I'm afraid - but I did have witnesses!

[nai]

M - back in the saddle after 6 days off 3x10 mins LI AeroCap

T - 7:53s fingerboard. Core & BW stuff

W - Cornice. Managed Zippy's Direct at last.

Th rest

Fri
AM - 7:53s. slight improvement on Tue
Eve HI AeroCap, 10 x 1 min on, 1 off but had to take an extra minute after reps 4 & 8
Weights - DL, Hip Thrusts, KB swings, BW stuff as Tue

Sat - total spanking by my AeroPow and AnCap circuits, couldn't complete either.
Tried the campus Board AnCap workout but that was too hard too so had to mollify it. Core & BW shizzle

Sun nowt

Bit of a shock on Saturday, not being able to complete the circuits that had become too easy in Spring.  Guess it shows how you lose it trying to prolong performance phases and explains why 7c in a day early in the season has become 2/3 sessions for 7b+.

[Murph]

Chapeau Tom, good tick that

M-kettlebells
T-pinkles and max hangs, +40kg on small BM1k holds for 10s, 6s, 10s not bad.
W-
T-Raven Tor. Arse spanked. This was not a session to remember. Got shut down on things I’d virtually flashed last time I went there, 2yrs ago.
F-did my research on some of the easy problems I’d suffered on. Turns out at least a couple I was doing a bit wrong and one of them, Saline Drip 7A, I’d been attempting without using any of the actual holds an the problem.
S-back to Raven Tor to get revenge. Woke Coops up at the crag  and warmed up on pinches, going in order until I got to the one that uses malcs one armer and got shut down. Then it was time to take Saline Drip down to China Town. Well that was the plan anyway. The reality was only marginally better than Thursday’s effort. From the giddy heights of Bovine last weekend, two sessions on a 7A this week and no dice. Genuinely I thought I’d do the stand in a couple of goes then get the sit soon after. If I hadn’t done it before I would think it was beyond me. Maybe it was a fluke back in the day or a hold fell off.
S-considered taking up another hobby. Bought my daughter a cheap 2nd hand bike and taught her to ride it. Good times.

[tomtom]

Cheers Murph - Said I'd film it and I didn't... but from Weds I've just put together a clip of two failed attempts that have all the moves (how I do them) except for the final one...

[Murph]

Hey Tom looking really good on it there. No wonder you were in a grump for not ticking. Ovine next?

Ere Nai, don’t read too much into it. Sometimes it’s harder than other times. Not always a good reason, but what do I know...?

[tomtom]

Hey Tom looking really good on it there. No wonder you were in a grump for not ticking. Ovine next?

Griffs into Bovine first I think (is that 7B or 7B+?)

[cheque]

one of them, Saline Drip 7A, I’d been attempting without using any of the actual holds an the problem.

There are a few ways to do SD, one of which Haydn reckons is 6c+ 

I haven’t done it by any method myself, but I was never any good at lime bouldering so that’s not saying much!

[Murph]

Tom - good idea!

Cheque- I distinctly remember it feeling very easy before so 6c+ would be no surprise. Think I might have had someone giving me the numbers when I was there tho.

And good work on the scrubbing!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - system lock offs, tweaked my right knee. Ab wheel and snatch pulls complex.
Wed - BM, front2 and mid2 hangs on small rung, one arm incut rung. Rings. Weights. Glute bridges. Abs.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - bouldering! 
Sat - bouldering!
Sun - bouldering! So tired.

So, after one year I managed to touch rock again. Wow. It's fun!
Despite my freshly injured knee I managed to drag my carcass up a few problems up to 7b+ (grades are not important to me). I completely forgot about my left elbow. Brilliant.
On top of this all, the big big news is that I managed to meet up and climb with no less that the one and only Keith Bradbury, aka Unclesomebody.
Well, if you've been concerned about him as of late (I haven't), fear not: ten years after our last meeting he is still the very same beast as ever. We would go to an area or boulder, he would flash everything and then he would kindly spot me.
It's been great.
The only downside was that crags are still full of groups of obnoxious, loud, vulgar, machist climbers who think they are the hottest thing around. The use of English or French terms while speaking Italian goes beyond my comprehension. "La mèthode", "il brush", "splittare", I could go on forever.
As ever, Lathe Biòsas.

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Arch. 30 degrees outside the wall, hotter inside… Not a bad session considering. Board and campussing, closest to 1-5-8 I've ever been (touched the bottom of the 8th rung R arm leading!). L arm leading so much weaker. Also repeated 1-4-7 R arm leading on middle rungs. Played +1 on the 50 with some mates for a bit. Finished with 10 muscle-ups (I think I need to learn how to breathe while doing these to do more) and a few laps of the circuit board
W: Arch. Even worse… An hour and a quarter on the circuit board - worst circuit board in the world. Too steep (40 degrees) and too short so juggy routes start to hurt your hands after not too long. Managed to get some good bits of pump on though
T: Rounders with work
F:
S: Cornice after meeting Murph at tor  . Warmed up on Martial Music 7a which gave me insane flash pump. Fell off by the last bolt on the flash. Went next go but couldn't shake the flash pump all day. Got on Big Zipper 7b which I should have done but every time I got near the top, the feeling would go from my hands (too cold / flash pump)? Best go got me through the crux on the good hold two moves from the top jug...
S: Arch. Arms still affected by the previous day's activities - the flash pump really buggered me so a short session here

[spidermonkey09]

Back into the swing of things a little this week.

M - rest

T - Depot. A million degrees so had a board session. Laughably weak on most of the undercut training problems I'd set at the start of the season, but was starting to make some progress on them by the end.

W - rest.

T - Gordale after work with visiting Catalan Pau. Put the clips in Cave Route Right to warm up and found it utterly desperate, before surprisingly doing it next go. Brilliant route, and now fully bolted; get on it. This allowed time for a bonus run up Supercool. Good conditions for the first time in ages and made good progress on the top crux after linking through the bottom crux for the first time in ages. One more session to work the 'exit strategy' from the crux and I should be on redpoint.

F - rest.

S - Malham with Steve and Martin. Long awaited and highly speculative flash go on New Dawn ended at the start of the run out. Decided to leave it for the rest of the day in favour of a few goes on Predator. Excellent conditions, with strong winds, gave way to utter stillness, high humidity and greasy holds precisely as I started working the highly conditions dependent headwall. Got very frustrated at inability to do any moves and damaged Martin's clipstick when I fell off and both feet impacted the stick, which was hanging on a lower bolt.  Stripped the route in a temper and landed on the ground only for conditions to immediately pick up. Decided to go up again after a rest and linked it to the rest from the first bolt, putting the clips in, which was great even if it is the easy bit! Good progress on the headwall; did a lot of moves and some good links between bolts. No idea how to move left from the first lower off; one for the next session.

S - Malham again, with the addition of Tom. Filthy weather meant the river was raging and the top of Cry Freedom had formed a small waterfall. Went up New Dawn bolt to bolt and then did it after a few false starts getting through the newly greasy boulder problem. Surely the best sport route in Britain. Psyched for Mescalito too. Am I alone in being able to get a kneebar in at the undercuts below the slopey ledge at the end of the run out? Neither Steve nor Martin could!

Gordale on Thursday and hopefully back to Malham at the weekend. Fingers crossed for good conditions...

[yetix]

Not posted in a while, not feeling particularly psyched following a slight finger injury but hoping posting here again my cause a little psych to return!

Mon - Rest
Tue -  Gym; Deadlift, first session doing deadlifts in a few months, warmed up to 75kg, then progressive 1RMs to 100kg, Benchpress 5x5 at 55kg. Should be doing better than this at Bench, doesn't feel as solid as it has in the past.
Wed - Boulder UK, tried repeating some of the easier stuff on the 55 board, finger felt okay, but not brilliant. cleared through most of the slabs and all the easier problems upto v6 downstairs
Thu - Rest
Fri - Light fingerboarding
Sat - Gym; Deadlift, warmed up to 90kg, then progressive 1RMs to 135kg, which was around 2.1xBW. Could probably go a little higher but form was starting to go. Benchpress 5x5 at 55kg
Sun - Light fingerboarding

Might do some circuits tonight as I'm feeling a little more confident about the finger now

[andy_e]

S-back to Raven Tor to get revenge.

What time were you there? We rocked up early afternoon.

[TobyD]

M - back in the saddle after 6 days off 3x10 mins LI AeroCap

T - 7:53s fingerboard. Core & BW stuff

W - Cornice. Managed Zippy's Direct at last.

Th rest

Fri
AM - 7:53s. slight improvement on Tue
Eve HI AeroCap, 10 x 1 min on, 1 off but had to take an extra minute after reps 4 & 8
Weights - DL, Hip Thrusts, KB swings, BW stuff as Tue

Sat - total spanking by my AeroPow and AnCap circuits, couldn't complete either.
Tried the campus Board AnCap workout but that was too hard too so had to mollify it. Core & BW shizzle

Sun nowt

Bit of a shock on Saturday, not being able to complete the circuits that had become too easy in Spring.  Guess it shows how you lose it trying to prolong performance phases and explains why 7c in a day early in the season has become 2/3 sessions for 7b+.

Might be because ZD is really hard as well. I thought it was.

[nai]

Got on Big Zipper 7b which I should have done but every time I got near the top, the feeling would go from my hands

Should try the 7a+ version with a kneebar rest before the crux 

[nai]

Might be because ZD is really hard as well. I thought it was.

Both those extensions seem hard, N&S especially, no way is that 7b+.

[Kingy]

No idea how to move left from the first lower off

The way I do it is by getting your RH on the sharp, black gaston you have your LH when you clip the first lower off (make sure to leave room). Bridge your LF way out left onto a black spike with your RF on the furthest left bit of the good foothold. Then do a big reach off the gaston out left to a poor crozzle a little way up the tufa with a decent thumb catch on it. Then weight your LF on the spike then step your RF through (outside your LF I think) and come through with your RH above your LH to a good pinch on the tufa while moving left to the rest.

The alternative to this way is to crank on the tweaky mono undercling... but you don't want to be doing that!

[Murph]

What time were you there? We rocked up early afternoon.

We were there about 7-10. Had the place to ourselves. Beginners/Griffs next Saturday am. The tor is too hard!

[shark]

Weight 11.1-2  Average 155.9 down 0.4lbs

M.
 
T. AM AM Cornice with Toby W. Warmed up on Rue Morgue (6c+?) but got pumped. Then dogged up Crime Passionel Had a desperate time on it but after several goes eventually redpointed it once I sorted my feet out. Knackered by then. So much for warming up. Jugged up Jug Jockey to lip crux. Pretty humid by then and failed to do move yet again. . 

W.AM Cornice with Ru. Fresher connies. Jugged up JJ a few times without much hope but over the course of the day managed the move 3 times from holding lip holds. Also at end went from ground and first crux felt a lot more amenable. Glad I didn't sack it off. Belayed Dave Bond on his redpoint of Nemesis and photo'd Alex on second ascent of Haydn's new 8b+

T.

F. AM Cornice with Mike Bate. 17deg driving out but 27deg driving back. Good conditions to start with but progressively worsened. Couple of working goes on JJ and improved sequence on top crux based around some cool toe hook moves. Two decent redpoints from the ground. First to holding pinches on top lip and second getting heel on the pinch. Good session and hopefully it will go down in next session or two

S. DIY

S. DIY. Eve Anston with Ben once rain abated to try Soul Crusher. Greasy. I didn't do very well and burnt out quickly but Ben almost did it slipping off first jug on the 6C section 

Back down the Cornice on tuesday then off to Shipwreck Cove on weds evening for 5 days with Zippy. Never been before.

Slightly less grumpy this week.

[spidermonkey09]

The way I do it is by getting your RH on the sharp, black gaston you have your LH when you clip the first lower off (make sure to leave room). Bridge your LF way out left onto a black spike with your RF on the furthest left bit of the good foothold. Then do a big reach off the gaston out left to a poor crozzle a little way up the tufa with a decent thumb catch on it. Then weight your LF on the spike then step your RF through (outside your LF I think) and come through with your RH above your LH to a good pinch on the tufa while moving left to the rest.

The alternative to this way is to crank on the tweaky mono undercling... but you don't want to be doing that!

Thanks Ted, will give that a go on Saturday. I want nothing to do with that mono pocket if I can avoid it!