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UKB Power Club Week 374 24th - 30th April 2017 (Read 11182 times)

nai

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Span rightwards sounds about right but shouldn't feel that hard, the crux is still the crux.

filz

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Mon: nothing
Tue: light weigths.
Wed: push ups, plank, weights (dumbbell deadlifts and farmer's walk)
Thu: rings push ups, ring planks and rows
Fri: board climbing. So and so
Sun: Bouldering. Second day on rock of the year. Not good.

It has been the first week where I managed to train regularly in a while. I'll try to continue. 

Coops_13

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STG: Keep Training
MTG: 7C, crush Font and Rocklands
LTG: 8A

M: Core
T: Fingerboard
W: Core
T: Indoors on the board
F: Drive overnight to Font
S: Best day in Font ever. Went to Roche aux Oiseaux, did Ca Tend a Droite 7A. Tried Satan m'Habite but a crucial hold hurt my finger so stopped. Tried a couple of other things before going to Sabots. Did l'Oblique 7A fairly quickly and got Jeu du Toit 7A third go. Went to 95.2 to try Symbiose 7C, puntered about on it but now realise I was trying the first move wrong. Did Jafresse Connexion Airline 7B+ with some Slovenian beta: https://www.instagram.com/p/BThGQjhFdG1/?taken-by=rosscooper1992
Went and did Indestructible 7A+ fairly quickly before finishing the day off with Yoga 7A  :2thumbsup:
S: Started off at Petit Bois, failing hard on la Baleine. Ended up at Marion des Roches where I did Natacha 7A+. Tried Pierrot 7B but couldn't link. Then the rain came...

Good trip to Font, Monday's antics to follow in next week's post...

webbo

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Mon. Spent day mooching about visited Lagurdia and Logrono.
Tue. Rain forecast for today. So short bike ride did some intervals. Went for a walk and got caught in a thunderstorm.
Wed. Raining more mooching visited Haro.
Thu. Visited wine museum and winery ended up wine tasting again. So afternoons bike ride didn't happen.
Fri. Woke to frost and one degree. Went out on the bike when it had warmed up 64.16 miles 4 hrs 7 mins lots of climbing.
Sat. Travel to ferry.
Sun. Traveling got home at one am on Monday.

gme

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I dont post my training on here but did raise some questions a few weeks ago on deadhanging as i was having a bit of a loss of confidence in doing them.

So an update if anyone is interested or thinking about doing them. I managed to stick to what i had promised my self and did nothing but deadhang plus a bit of campusing for 41/2 weeks, a total of 12 sessions. I followed a bastardised Maisch/CWP format doing 9 max hangs, two armed with added weight all on the bottom two edges on a BM 1k. I started being able to do a 13 sec hang with 21kg added (BW of 81kg) and when i tested at the end i could do it with 34kg added (BW 83kg) so an increase of 15kg. I was very strict with myself and maintained half crimp pretty much all the time.

I was pretty pleased with the results from this phase but in line with my earlier concerns about transfer to climbing the proof would be in the pudding. I have been climbing outside for a few weeks now as much as possible and am happy to report back that i have a big increase in finger strength, especially on crimps. My fingers feel amazing. To confirm this further i had my 1st session on the moonboard on tuesday evening and did 6 7Bs in a pretty short session and stuff i had done before felt way easier. This was easily the best session i have had on the board.

So in summary i am a massive convert to deadhanging. Going to boulder exclusively for the next few months and drop some weight then do another phase of them July/aug during the hot sweaty summer but going to try one armed hangs.

csl

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Wow, sounds like max-hangs were the shock to the system you needed. Nice work!

Duma

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tomtom

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Nice one. (Reminds TomTom to pull his finger out and get back training...)

Stu Littlefair

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Glad they worked for you Gav.

I think most people find that a phase of more volume-heavy hangs (e.g repeaters or anderson-style hangs), followed by a phase of max hangs (e.g CWP) leads to very good gains. Worth trying next time round!

galpinos

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Glad they worked for you Gav.

I think most people find that a phase of more volume-heavy hangs (e.g repeaters or anderson-style hangs), followed by a phase of max hangs (e.g CWP) leads to very good gains. Worth trying next time round!

Stu, assuming this is a classic strength building then recruiting style protocol, what are the durations, 6 weeks of repeaters  then 4 weeks of max hangs?

dave

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Assuming you have access to a wall, what's the benefit of doing repeaters as opposed to doing a session of hard problems?

Sasquatch

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So in summary i am a massive convert to deadhanging.

 ;D  :beer2:

I think for a select group they are basically the perfect training tool.  You sounded like you were in exactly the same place I was when i started din them :)  glad they worked. 

psborland

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Nice one, it'sencouraging to hear some specific results.

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Hi all, thought I'd post and see if it keeps the psyche up. Last few weeks....

Sat- Heptonstall: cold and rain showers, tried to warm up on a tough fingery e2, sacked it off as freezing and flash pumped. Abbed and tied the pegs off on Step in the Light Green, sun came round so had a go. Got to just heading out from the second peg to the top ramp. Fell off in a full on rain shower with frozen fingers. No push over this route and quite bold for me! Glad it carried on raining as felt man flu coming on. Led thin red line - Roaches HVS.

Sun - nothing

Mid week- boulder problem reps and power endurance, the 50deg board at the depot is desperate, can't get to the top! Getting on it is a sign the torn bicep elbow problem must be eventually on the mend.

Sat / Sun - man flu

Mid week- boulder problem reps and power endurance reps.

Sat - cheedale redpointed Orange Sunshine. Fingery rat crimp undercut nastiness. Tough for 7c+ I thought, happy to climb a Jerry classic though.

Sun- Hen Cloud with Ryan - trad pottering on the Brown and Whillans routes that weren't bird banned. Also had a reccy of The Young Pretender, a Mark Katz e8 from the late 90's. looks at least font 7C with a grim landing. I wonder if it's been repeated? Ha!

Warning video of trad plodding with excess wind noise:

Watch this video on Vimeo: . Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios

 

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