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Taping
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duncan
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Taping
September 23, 2016, 11:33:58 am
Volker Schoeffl (One Move Too Many) demonstrates some taping procedures. The first two seem well thought-out and worth trying if you're easing back into climbing after an injury. I've no idea what the elbow 'epicondylitis' (I thought we'd left that term behind) one is supposed to do, nor is there any explanation of proposed mechanism. He also seems to suggest taping will prevent injuries if I've understood him correctly. Not so sure about that either, thought this could be a question of nuance from a non-native English speaker.
PIP Joint Capsule (to minimise joint extension)
H-tape for A3 pulley
'Epicondylitis'
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SA Chris
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#1 Re: Taping
September 23, 2016, 11:58:51 am
Hmm, not sure about the elbow one either. When I was in the throes of chronic "tennis elbow" any method of taping made no difference at all, using any kind of tape. I used an elbow brace with a cinch strap (an older version of this
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/mid-500-elbow-brace-id_8358395.html
) for a while while climbing and i think being able to release the strap between climbing is good to allow bloodflow, but it's tight enough when climbing to support it. No weight regime cured symptoms, but a brutal sports massage on my really tight forearms and a good stretch, foam roller and lacross ball routine definitely did.
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Ru
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#2 Re: Taping
September 24, 2016, 09:02:05 am
The pip joint tape should be preventative to some extent - you are just preventing the pip joint from being pulled apart by stopping the finger straightening.
The H tape does provide some support to the A3 I believe, or at least a bit more than other methods. Isa Shoeffl did some cadaver studies that support this (basically taping up cadaver hands then blowing their pulleys in machines). Not a perfect study but better than all the other guesswork.
The elbow taping is a best guess thing I think. Volker showed it to me when we were on holiday and I had bad elbows and it didn't do anything for me, but Volker likes it. I don't think there's much science behind it.
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Last Edit: April 25, 2017, 03:50:02 pm by Ru
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catbreath
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#3 Re: Taping
September 26, 2016, 11:49:26 am
Does anyone know any good guides for taping poppy wrists? I had a thread a while back after a sloper did my left wrist in - I've had a couple months off and just getting back into it. Pain is totally gone but my wrist pops out a bit on certain slopers so I'm avoiding them, but a couple people have said taping might help accidental tweaks until my wrist is stronger.
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Duma
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#4 Re: Taping
September 26, 2016, 12:27:24 pm
My left wrist pops at the slightest provocation - it's always been a bit loose but mossatrocity properly damaged it a few years ago. I tape it up reasonably tight, (seem to be able to go a fair bit tighter than on fingers without cutting blood flow), wide tape, from as close to the base of the hand as possible for about 2 inches. Have my wrist in slight extention as I tape. This has helped me loads on big slopers, which I just had to avoid for a couple of years before working out how to tape it up.
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catbreath
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#5 Re: Taping
September 26, 2016, 03:04:23 pm
Cheers, I'll give that a try! Googling about a few people have mentioned Wrist Widgets as an alternative, anyone had any luck with those?
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Nibile
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Part Animal Part Machine
#6 Re: Taping
September 27, 2016, 07:31:48 am
I've climbed taping my middle or ring fingers or both, usually for A2, for years and years on end, and I've never found any benefit, except by taping around the joint, or at least to mid joint, in order to limiting flexion.
Spoke to a surgeon some time ago, and he told me that to really help support the pulleys, you should tape the finger so tight that it would cut blood flow off in seconds.
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