[Gritter]

I was repeatedly throwing with my right  and landing open handed at the furthest of my reach a few weeks ago which ended up giving me a pain in my ring finger, palm and wrist.
It's quite difficult to locate where exactly the most pain comes from now. I can still climb quite hard with only moderate pain but it doesn't seem to be improving much. I'm currently icing it after sessions but apart from that don't really know what to do?
Does this sound like a flexor tendon strain? And am I risking a full rupture continuing to climb on it? Any rehabilitation advice or general knowledge on the subject would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Nick.

[Three Nine]

Usually you can still pull pretty hard with a flexor tweak using non-irritating grips, but they take ages to heal up. Usually if you crimp and half-crimp, and dont drop any fingers, you are good to pull hard pretty soon after hurting it. In addition, you should be able to pull on pockets front two if you so desire. Especially avoid dropping your pinkie.

[Snoops]

I was repeatedly throwing with my right  and landing open handed at the furthest of my reach a few weeks ago which ended up giving me a pain in my ring finger, palm and wrist.
It's quite difficult to locate where exactly the most pain comes from now. I can still climb quite hard with only moderate pain but it doesn't seem to be improving much. I'm currently icing it after sessions but apart from that don't really know what to do?
Does this sound like a flexor tendon strain? And am I risking a full rupture continuing to climb on it? Any rehabilitation advice or general knowledge on the subject would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Nick.

Sounds bang on like a flexor tendon strain. I had one 3 years ago.
Get a road bike for the summer. Leave it alone apart form the ususal gentle rehab, and lewis stuff.
They do take ages to heal, but unlike some other injuries, it you give it time there is no permanent effects.
Good luck

[Gritter]

Is regular stretching of the ring finger going to be beneficial or aggravate it? And are there any taping methods that are more beneficial than others for this, I'm currently h taping it and taping my wrist, I think it helps but in all honesty I've no idea?
Any ideas from your experiences on healing timescale?
Thanks.

[Moo]

Rest, ice, slow return to maximum loading capacity. Stretch it, recovery time depends on the severity of the strain, I wouldn't bother taping it as you'll end up doing more harm then good when you end up pulling harder than the tape will lead you to believe.

[mrjonathanr]

Is regular stretching of the ring finger going to be beneficial or aggravate it?

Stretching is beneficial for most things, but with a strained tendon I'd be leaving well alone till it was well on the road to recovery. In other words, not if it were my finger. See a physio, but I wouldn't fiddle with an injured tendon.

[Gritter]

Thanks for the advice.

[JonB]

When mine was bad, I buddy taped my pinkie to my ring finger to make sure I didn't drop my pinkie when pulling open handed. Not sure if this is the recommended thing to do, but seemed to work for me and I could pretty much climb as normal.

[Gritter]

I may try this although my pinkie is permanently bent now from an open dislocation in November so it may be a little tricky! right hand not doing so well of late 

[erm, sam]

What you should do is spend a week climbing easy problems, eg the warm ups, and see if it stabilises or calms down and then build up as suitable having given it a little rest..

[andy_e]

When mine was bad, I buddy taped my pinkie to my ring finger to make sure I didn't drop my pinkie when pulling open handed.

Anyone else done this? Is it a wise move? I'm also tempted to tape up overnight too as I kept catching it in my sleep last night.

[peewee]

When mine was bad, I buddy taped my pinkie to my ring finger to make sure I didn't drop my pinkie when pulling open handed.

Anyone else done this? Is it a wise move? I'm also tempted to tape up overnight too as I kept catching it in my sleep last night.

Constantly dragging and crimping the table in The Hunters probably didn't help 

[andy_e]

I know, I'm doing it at my desk today too. I can't stop fiddling with it...

[JonB]

When mine was bad, I buddy taped my pinkie to my ring finger to make sure I didn't drop my pinkie when pulling open handed.

Anyone else done this? Is it a wise move? I'm also tempted to tape up overnight too as I kept catching it in my sleep last night.

Funnily enough, I just got a strain in my left arm a week or so ago. The taping worked a treat on my right hand first time round, it's all good now. Feels alright on my left, but still a little tweaky in the hand when pulling on uneven holds, which makes me think I might have done something to one of the lumbrical muscles as well. Warming the hand up with a gripsaver thing before climbing may have helped a bit, but I could just be imagining it.

They are a bit of a bastard in day to day life, it's always so tempting to seek out the point where it becomes painful, or accidentally pick up a carrier bag with your middle 2 and think you've just ended your climbing forever...

[Fultonius]

I found carrying a  full cup of coffee/tea was the living end!  (mine was middle finger strain) Seems totally fine now.

[Ian T]

When mine was bad, I buddy taped my pinkie to my ring finger to make sure I didn't drop my pinkie when pulling open handed. Not sure if this is the recommended thing to do, but seemed to work for me and I could pretty much climb as normal.

This is what I did too and I was able to climb pretty much pain free. It took about six months to heal completely.

[andy_e]

I habitually middle-two door handles and things, have been having to consciously avoid this! Climbed gingerly on it today without buddy taping and it seemed ok... Might have to get some sort of gripping device to warm-up/rehab it over Christmas.

[ashtond6]

I've had a flexor tendon issue on and off for almost two years.
Got it doing laps and laps on steep jugs (stupid)

I didn't let it heal and it stayed for over a year, though it only affected me by 1 grade or so.
It went away but it's coming back again, be careful with it

I found that complete rest didn't help, short sessions with low intensity did
As soon as I pushed a short session too hard, it was 1 step forwards, 2 back

[creedence]

I buddy taped mine when I did it.  Mainly to stop the subconscious dropping of the little finger when climbing.  If you do that, and try to concentrate on crimping on small edges, which luckily is my natural instinct anyway, you're good to go.

It will take a long time to get back to full strength for open hand though.  1 year?