[crimp]

Hi

new to UKB. I am an asylum seeker from UKC. Its madness over there. I have vowed never to ever even open that website for the rest of my days.

I was advised UKB was far saner.

There should be a support group and hotline for UKC leavers.

I am currently using a boreal handtrainer to try and improve finger hand and wrist strength. However, i can't find any recommended daily exercise drills online anywhere.

Can anyone point me in the right direction, or provide a recommended set of progressive daily exercise drills? At present, i am just randomly squeezing 50 times a few times a day. Not sure its bringing about noticeable results.

Thanks

[jwi]

I very much doubt any kind of squeeze balls help much for strengthening the hand for climbing.  They may help for warming up on crags where there are no easy climbs.

Can you hang a 20 mm edge for >30s? If so you may try to some regular hang boarding for training the fingers. Otherwise climbing, bouldering, and general strength training (arms, upper- and lower back, shoulders, abs, hip extenders) should suffice.

[Davo]

Yep I agree, those hand trainers are extremely unlikely to have any effect. Better to do some fingerboarding and just use that other thing as a warm up at the crag.

[crimp]

 

Thanks

that tallies with what i subsequently read in the resources section above.

I shall relegate it to a warm up tool, and start hitting skips for fingerboard making materials.