[jwi]

(Apologies for silly subject but I am procrastinating)

I've made myself a new fingerboard with one finger pockets, and have re-discovered that my index finger is almost 25 %  weaker than my little finger.  Whereas my ring- and middle finger have approximately the same strength, and thus my back 2 pair is significantly stronger than my front 2 (on rock I prefer back2 to front2 when given a choice).

Is this common?

[lagerstarfish]

my little fingers are virtually useless

so back 2 are very weak compared to front 2

[Sasquatch]

(Apologies for silly subject but I am procrastinating)

I've made myself a new fingerboard with one finger pockets, and have re-discovered that my index finger is almost 25 %  weaker than my little finger.  Whereas my ring- and middle finger have approximately the same strength, and thus my back 2 pair is significantly stronger than my front 2 (on rock I prefer back2 to front2 when given a choice).

Is this common?

No.  It's not common. You're a freak.      
(wish i was a freak ike that....)
the good news is that with some directed training you should be able to see significant gains on the front two.

[Dexter]

my pinky is about the same as my index i think. I think its from trying to train for 1 armers by doing 1 arm jug other using pinky hence building pinky mono strength.

[jwi]

good news is that with some directed training you should be able to see significant gains on the front two.

That's what I hope for.  Inspired by G. Köstermeyer's old paper I decided to see what happens when I work the fingers individually.

[Drew]

I'd agree that it's unusual, but it's incredible the difference the pinky makes in strengthening the whole hand. I find that The difference in strength between front two, and front three, fairly negligible, but add the pink for all four fingers, and the difference is astonishing. Even front three with thumb crimping over, is far weaker than all four without thumb.

[honroid]

On the subject of index and little. After getting into front 2 / back 2 a while back and making slow but steady progress, I thought I'd isolate index and little together today  ("devil hang"?). It touched a part of my forearm I'd never felt before... Anyone using it as a regular feature of a hangboard session?

[a dense loner]

No because it's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Who, when, why, or where would you ever find a hold like that? It's a recipe for disaster

[jwi]

Ha! I am not the only one, in fact for 16 subjects in a 1995-study the average strength of the little finger was greater than that of the index finger (not by much though....)



Zeigefinger = index finger
kl. finger = little finger
Einzelfinger = single fingers
Vierfinger = all four fingers

The rest you should be able to guess.

[Nigel]

Meant to say earlier so you didn't feel like a freak of nature - I don't think its that unusual. I can sometimes hang pinky monos but am nowhere near index. Did a test once with a counterweight, harness, and pulley and I had to take approx. 30kg off just to hang them. I weight 68kg so thats a huge difference in strength! I know at least a few other people who are similar.

[honroid]

No because it's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Who, when, why, or where would you ever find a hold like that? It's a recipe for disaster

Guess it's a way of isolating fingers, the same as hanging pinkie monos, ring finger monos or index monos... Probably not much use in itself (how much are you going to use those for hangin monos outside of training?) but good for strengthening fingers...

On the subject at hand, my index is for sure stronger than my little finger and the back 2 are much weaker than front 2 but getting there through perseverance. Neither are anything like as comfortable as the middle two for hanging on though.

[a dense loner]

It's not the same as isolating fingers, use a mono. It's a gimmick