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[Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
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[Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
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ellis
newbie
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[Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 08:56:27 am
Managed the direct start to Wing Buttress last night, thin moves using a pebble and crimp.
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Johnny Brown
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#1 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 09:45:54 am
From memory I thought you must mean the hanging arete of the wing itself, but looking at the guide Wing buttress is up the slab to the left?
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ellis
newbie
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#2 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 09:51:12 am
It's the wall right of Wing Buttress Gully and just left of the blunt arete, direct up to the wide crack on second half of WB.
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Johnny Brown
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#3 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 10:08:11 am
I see, so just left of Wing and a prayer (the blunt arete). I'm guessing you don't use the arete?
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Bonjoy
Global Moderator
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Leafy gent
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#4 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 10:17:29 am
Pic here on UKC showing the block
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19416
Description over there for WBD say: "The wall just left of a blunt arete direct into crack of Wing Buttress.
Start with right hand on the arete
and gain a pebble with the left. Latch a small positive crimp with the right and rock up for glory."
Is this UKB Poirot day?
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ellis
newbie
Posts: 16
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#5 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 10:23:34 am
Yes, used arete with RH just to pull on, then small positive crimp on the wall to rock up to jug.
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ellis
newbie
Posts: 16
Karma: +0/-0
#6 Re: [Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A]
May 09, 2012, 01:05:25 pm
That photo shows it well, footholds in those low breaks L of yellow rope, handholds tricky to spot, even when stood there!
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