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[Peak][Popular End][Wing Buttress Direct][7A] (Read 1924 times)

ellis

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Managed the direct start to Wing Buttress last night, thin moves using a pebble and crimp.  :)

Johnny Brown

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From memory I thought you must mean the hanging arete of the wing itself, but looking at the guide Wing buttress is up the slab to the left?

ellis

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It's the wall right of Wing Buttress Gully and just left of the blunt arete, direct up to the wide crack on second half of WB.

Johnny Brown

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I see, so just left of Wing and a prayer (the blunt arete). I'm guessing you don't use the arete?

Bonjoy

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Pic here on UKC showing the block http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19416

Description over there for WBD say: "The wall just left of a blunt arete direct into crack of Wing Buttress. Start with right hand on the arete and gain a pebble with the left. Latch a small positive crimp with the right and rock up for glory."

Is this UKB Poirot day?

ellis

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Yes, used arete with RH just to pull on, then small positive crimp on the wall to rock up to jug.

ellis

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That photo shows it well, footholds in those low breaks L of yellow rope, handholds tricky to spot, even when stood there!

 

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