[Oli]

I had a quick search, but to no avail, so;

How do you do the first move? Left heel up? or right? and then (somehow) LH to the pockety pinch thing first presumably?

Also, anyone got any inflexible beta for the move to the first slopers? I've currently got a gash sequence as I can't seem to get my LF on the ideal bit. (Actually doing some stretching at some stage may solve that).

Thanks.

[account_inactive]

The first move goes either way.  Left in the break is a bigger move mind.

I think you need to get stretching as I don't remember anything too bendy 

[Oli]

I think you need to get stretching as I don't remember anything too bendy 

Most definitely...

[abarro81]

I did something with my feet out right (can't remember specifics I'm afraid), RH up, RF heel-toe,  LH up... Going LH first with L heel up seemed too powerful

[Steve R]

you copied me barros and used a right 'leg wrap' cum heel out right initially to get left hand to the pinch. 

[reeve]

I also did very similar to Barros, but I had my heel up there to get RH up to pockety edge. I wasn't copying either of you though.

[abarro81]

I did indeed steve, I just wanted to try to steal any credit away from you to make me feel better about being stuck indoors revising

  I have yet to work out whether you guys are making some sort of pun i've never understood, have broken 'w' keys or just haven't realised there's a w in my name..

[r-man]

If you get your left heel on to start, you can almost roll onto the ledge, so that you aren't pulling with your heel at all. Then casually reach upwards to the good hold and continue. Takes a while to get the subtleties of this body position though.

[Jim]

Left foot on thing under roof, right heel next to right hand on break, reach up and get poor sloper crimp thing with RH, them bring left foot from underneath you and put it on the smear at the bottom of the jutting out bit (its brushed) then you can move your right foot further out allowing you to reach the good hold with your LH

[Oli]

Thanks.
I'll have to try and generate some time away from revision in order to go and crush flail on it.

[tomtom]

I was going to ask whether or not it starts on the flattys on the break - or if the sidepully thing above for the RH was in... From above it looks like its a tortuous move from the flattys then...

Bah. That first move seemed grim.. esp when the rest of the problem is superb.. (not that I've done it all in one go yet!)

[dave]

Starts from the break, but that move is fine if you go straight into a left heeltoe in the same break and lay as much leg as possible into the break. Then you can go straight up to the juggy pocket with left hand as the first move.

[tomtom]

Video evidence thanks to Jasper.... I take it I'm cheating on the first move... :/

Edit - just noticed it doesnt have the start (doh!) but I start with my RH on the hold its on at the beginning of the clip, LF out to the right, lean back and wang in the heel toe...


Tom on Dick Williams


Thanks for the beta Dave, I'll try lf and leg into the break next time.. quality problem (got a mvoe or two further than in the vid on later tries starting in the middle.. but didnt top out). Props to Nai for doing this sans spotter...

[tomtom]

[cofe]

Who's the chick in the pic?

[tomtom]

Who's the chick in the pic?

Do you want their number?

[lagerstarfish]

long legged blonde slapper 

[Jaspersharpe]

That's interesting as trying to get a right heel up felt way too bunched up to me. I did the move going RH to pinchy thing with foot on the low smear but it was quite hard, unpleasant and would then involve some horrible foot scrabbling to get the right heel up.

A left heel / leg and going straight to the LH pocket would seem a lot more sensible and cut out two difficult moves.

Just the slopey death finish to sort out then.

Props to Nai for doing this sans spotter...

Indeed. The landing on the boulder is fine with one pad but you need someone to grab you to make sure you don't go tumbling down the gap.

What a great problem anyway. And to save posting on the fifty other threads I seem to have made an appearance in, you're all cunts.

 

[nai]

Starting RH to the pinchy thing you don't lock heel in the break but use it a bit out on an obvious thing. It's quite knacky, LF on low edge underneath, RF heel on, take LF off and kinda flag, twist in and get as much leg as possible in contact with the break. RH up, LF on the low smear and snatch around the corner for the pocket.  dave's way sounds easier tho.



Re the landing, I thought it was fine once you'd convinced your self you weren't going to fall into the void, and I did have a 2nd pad down there just in case.  Holds get better the higher you get, you shouldn't drop it after the match, it is worth doing it a couple of times beforehand I was quite scared at the top tho