[coolboy]

Chris/anyone

Was trying some of the eliminates from sample pages of new stone country book,

http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/Bouldering_in_Scotland_Pages_Section_1_Pages_1_to_12_Intro.pdf

but got a bit stuck  trying the cave problems at boltsheugh, fairly sure ali's eliminate is more or less a straight up, but which slots are in or out?? there's loads of them. Tried to find the floestone wall too but wasn't exactly sure were it was? just the left hand wall of the cave?  What does floestone mean?

Any advise much appreciated

tom

[SA Chris]

Hi Tom,

Stu's probably a better man than me to speak to. I think it was too windy round there when we went the other day, so didn't do much. I know he had a session there last weekend with some other locals and said he got shown some good probs.

Flowstone usually refers to limestone tufa formations, so I guess the rock looks a bit like it?

Sorry, not much help.

[coolboy]

Thanks anyway Chris,

Does Stu use UKB at all?

There is a molten/limestone looking wall to left of actual cave so that does help, didn't seem to completely fit with description but I'll look again sometime.

have you ever done deadheads direct, looks awkward as

tom

[SA Chris]

I think he lurks.

Not sure about the difference between deadheads and the direct, but I got as far as touching, but not holding, the shallow pocket below the horizontal "break" when i was going there regularly at lunch times. Not tired it in a while.

[coolboy]

Ok I'm maybe e-mail

Followed description in stone country pages, difference seems to just be in lower section, the direct just using small ramp and tiny crimp on steeper left hand wall and avoiding all decent stuff ut right. Not a problem I've done either! Saw Neil M trying it as a spoort route recently using some intermediate minutia...

[SA Chris]

pretty sure i was trying the ordinary start in that case.

[andy_e]

I thought Deadheads Direct eliminated the foot block out right? Thought it seemed hard for 7A+... If the block is in, has it been done without? What grade does that go at? Anyone know?

[SA Chris]

Sorry mate, don't know, trying desperately hard to care .  Try messaging Oli on FB or via Tip Juice.

[Fultonius]

fairly sure ali's eliminate is more or less a straight up, but which slots are in or out?? there's loads of them.

I'm sure I remember being down there having a play on some of the problems; Ally was there, even he wasn't sure where his eliminate was meant to go. Not because he'd forgotten, but because he wasn't sure it ever existed...   

[iwasmexican]

ok so for the record "deadheads" is the one that goes up the sport route, starting on the big block on the right and then leftwards to go up the face on crimps, and its probably 7A+. "deadheads direct" starts direct just below the sloping shelf and goes up through a lefthand crimp and a poor intermediate sloper using the block out right for feet, get 7B generally. "deadheads direct direct" is the same as the direct except eliminating the block out right for feet, and so done with either a heel on the slopey shelf or with a wild swing. not sure if anyone else had done it like this but i thought it was 7B/+ ish.

[coulster]

I wouldn't be able to shed any light on what's in on Ally's eliminate as I haven't got a clue what was in or not .

I Just happened to bump into John Waston there one day when I was messing about trying various eliminates, next I new it was in the guide.

I doubt it's overly worth seeking out.

[andy_e]

Bullocks, I thought it seemed hard for 7A+/7B! Got pretty close using the heel method but I ran out of Aberdeen-time before I managed to get it in a decent condition. Cheers!

[andy_e]

Did anyone manage to work out what Flowstone Wall was? Chris and I thought we identified it but it didn't look the classic it was described as being.