[Dolly]

Nice one mate.
Will you spot me if I ever work up enough courage to have a go ?

[mark]

Blimey! Got a long way to go before I have as many medals as Fiend's mate.

Nice one mate.
Will you spot me if I ever work up enough courage to have a go ?

Absolutely. I'll put the cattleprod attachment on my brush-on-a-stick and force you to keep climbing higher.

[dave]

good effort!!!

on a negative point, you've just done probably the best peice of climbing anywhere, so its all downhill now..... :wink:

[Bubba]

Nice one Mark - first Deliverance, and now WSS - what's next?!

[grimer]

Chip Shop Brawl, of course.

[Bonjoy]

Top effort Mark!
I'm taking day off on thurs to go out, maybe i'll give WSS another blast, see if I can't join you on the podium.

[tomtom]

Wrong thread I know - but I couldnt find a WSS beta thread (just this one on the top out and another more random one)...

So... AAAAAARGGGGHHH... I seem to be unable to maintain balance to pop my left hand out to the shitty mono crimpette thing near the start..
(the move is @ 14 seconds on this)

So I've started all sorts of odd outside edge of foot fagottry thats nearly coming off to pretty much avoid that move - coming accrosss to the shitfest non crimp wank hold of crapness a bit later on when I'm higher. But I cant help but feel that I'm making life much harder for myself... and it would be much easier if I could just balance out that first or second move.

I've tried all sorts of different foot combo's, leaning in different ways, weight distribution etc.. but I just barn door away from it as I'm trying to snatch a finger into its non-existentness.. am I missing something dead simple -or is it just my morph? (I am tall and lanky..)

Grr...

[nai]

Dobbin's lank method may work for you:



Also seen folk layaway up the flake to the third sidepull using an interim 2.5 for their left then taking the crimp once established up there.

[dave]

Can't you just reach the crimp from the floor FFS? Or are you on percy's regendary sitter?

[tomtom]

aha.. I'd forgotton about the Dobbin Method(tm)..
I tried that last year (or earlier this) and was no-where near, but I'm stronger now, and was holding stuff in on there that I wasnt before - so I may re-visit this. My LF was sticking today when it wasnt before..

My (non completed but in head) sequence is some combo of this and the regular way, where I use the outside of left and out right RF (though not so high as Dobbin)  to yard accross to the crimp, then sort feet out and progres upwards in the standard combinations (as yet untried!)...

Can't you just reach the crimp from the floor FFS? Or are you on percy's regendary sitter?

I can.. but believe it or not I'm too stretched out to do anything with it other than be trapped in a LA style stop and search pose.

[Johnny Brown]

AAAAAARGGGGHHH... I seem to be unable to maintain balance to pop my left hand out to the shitty mono crimpette thing near the start..

How tall are you? The 'Dobbin' method above is only for the taller gent. Alternatively, try more pinching the right sidepull with your middle finger in the very back corner, wrist & arm more or less vertical below it, then get your hips in close. Or the midget method - smash a toehook in that big flake out left and wave at the crowds mid-move.  All of these will benefit from colder weather than the present.

[tomtom]

AAAAAARGGGGHHH... I seem to be unable to maintain balance to pop my left hand out to the shitty mono crimpette thing near the start..

How tall are you? The 'Dobbin' method above is only for the taller gent. Alternatively, try more pinching the right sidepull with your middle finger in the very back corner, wrist & arm more or less vertical below it, then get your hips in close. Or the midget method - smash a toehook in that big flake out left and wave at the crowds mid-move.  All of these will benefit from colder weather than the present.

6'3"...

[Duma]

I'm 5' 9" and the toehook is fine, not just for midgets. Still can't get the break tho...

[Johnny Brown]

I meant the toehook is only really the easy option if you're too short for the others.

If you're 6'3" I cannot understand why you're doing this move at all. Are you a T-Rex? Just pull on with the crimp.

[Jim]

at 6'3" you should be able to pull straight on with the crimp and go for the 2nd side pull. dobbins method is not lanky? I can used to be able to do it like that no problem. for the normal of stature who cannot reach the crimp off the deck, the move at 14 secs in that video is done by a very subtle body position that takes a while to find, but when you do you can get it nearly every go.

[nai]

the move at 14 secs in that video is done by a very subtle body position that takes a while to find, but when you do you can get it nearly every go.

very true and as ever all about feet, think Tom struggled to pull in on his left toe with his long legs all bunched up. 

The handholds on the route are obvious, you just have to work out the order to use them in and most importantly where - and how - to place your feet, this seems to differ slightly for everybody and can take a while to work out.  For me it was a process of eliminating lots of possibilities until I was left with the most likely solution.  One of the most enjoyable processes I have been through.

[Johnny Brown]

dobbins method is not lanky?

No, but it definitely gets easier the taller you are. It could do with a more appropriate name quicksmart though.

[Jim]

ben-side-boy-band?

[tomtom]

An update.. I had a (slightly tired) session on this on Thursday, with Nai offering advice.. it was warm (not ideal) but some slight progress was made.

The most promising advances came on the regular method, and getting all my weight leftwards at the start and really pulling in on the left toe (feels really odd) and I managed to hold the barn door in a couple of times (improved each time). Then general warmth and goppiness stopped further progress....

[highrepute]

in my, limited, experience everyone seems to have their own sequence that works best for this problem. Just keep experimenting.

Also, wait for it so cool down a bit, 6 to 10 degrees should be ideal. Until then practice balancy moves on vertical walls.

[tomtom]

An update.. I had a (slightly tired) session on this on Thursday, with Nai offering advice.. it was warm (not ideal) but some slight progress was made.

The most promising advances came on the regular method, and getting all my weight leftwards at the start and really pulling in on the left toe (feels really odd) and I managed to hold the barn door in a couple of times (improved each time). Then general warmth and goppiness stopped further progress....

Got the move today (3 times out of 20!)... didnt get any further though was surprised to hold it...

Onwards and upwards..

[dobbin]

It should be noted that all methods on west side are actually tm Bishton or long as far as I know. The 'dobbin' method was handed down to me by the ignition technician saltbeef, and probably to him from Huffy and to him from well, who knows - but the point is that it wasnt something I made up.

If its not wooden, linear and very basic, it's extremely unlikely I had anything to do with inventing the sequence.

If you want a really hard way to do a problem that only I can do - I'm your man.