[Lopez]

Hi all. Got a little problem which i hope some people here may be able to help me with...

Basically, after a suspected Volar plate tear i spent about a year training without crimping (or half-crimping) at all, only for me to discover lately that i can't crimp any more! 

At first i thought it would be a matter of getting back to it slowly, but it's not happening at all. The problem seems to be either tendon shortening and/or ligament weakness, as my DIP joint won't bend backwards at all, and whenever i try to crimp i end up with pain within the joint for a few days even after only one attempt at the problem (I've now had a swollen index DIP for a week from the last time i tried).

I can dead hang (7/3x6) the smallest edges on a BM2000, the small tweaky monos, and one-arm the 2 finger pockets, but can't do more than 2 seconds crimping on even the biggest edges without having to let go due to scary pain.

So... any ideas what i could do to be able to crimp again? Feet-on deadhanging either feels like i'm not doing anything at all, or if i load enough then the 'spraining' feel comes through. There doesn't seem to be a middle point.

Thanks!

[andy_e]

Become an open-hand beast 

(No helpful input, hope you can get it sorted.)

[Lopez]

Become an open-hand beast 

Ha! Wish it'd be that easy... There's a limit to how small a hold i can openhand with a modicum of stability without skidding off them when moving. As well as weak as shit ligaments i also have sausage size fingers

[chris05]

Become an open-hand beast 

(No helpful input, hope you cant get it sorted.)

Thats not very nice andi 

[Fultonius]

You probably are doing enough with feet on fingerboarding.

Now, I've not had a similar issue or have any direct experience of it, but, I would've thought that the old advice of "do as much as you can up the point of slight discomfort"

Do you crimp at all when actually climbing?

[andy_e]

Become an open-hand beast 

(No helpful input, hope you cant get it sorted.)

Thats not very nice andi 

No idea how I managed that, T and N are miles away from each other! I hope you can get it sorted.

[rodma]

The problem seems to be either tendon shortening and/or ligament weakness, as my DIP joint won't bend backwards at all

Should it bend backwards??

[Lopez]

Do you crimp at all when actually climbing?

Mainly when the crimps are used for balance. I.e. Slabs/vertical or intermediates holds. I can't really fully load a crimp on OH problems, even with good feet, so i end up working a different sequence to avoid doing so, being dynamic instead of locking off, or ending up getting hurt trying, go home to an ice bath flogging myself for being that stupid, only to repeat the same mistake a few days later.

[Lopez]

The problem seems to be either tendon shortening and/or ligament weakness, as my DIP joint won't bend backwards at all

Should it bend backwards??

They usually do (or rather did). A degree of joint flexibility allows the tendon/ligament to stretch instead of tearing, changes the angle of the forces being applied to the joint also allowing for the tip to seat flat on the hold, and let's you place the thumb above finger above hold rather than thumb above finger above air...

[JamieG]

Maybe some stretching like this:

http://indyyoga.blogspot.com/2010/10/posture-of-week.html

And this:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/forearmstretch.png/

A friend of mine had real problems with tight tendons and did these kind of stretches a lot which seemed to help him. Take it easy though.

[duncan]

What was the final diagnosis and have you asked anyone professional what to do about this?   The following could be completely the wrong thing to do.  The usual caveats about taking advice from random strangers apply.

I would've thought that the old advice of "do as much as you can up the point of slight discomfort"

   
So would I.

I don't know if the ligaments (and joint capsule) are weak but it sounds like they are tight and now too short to allow full joint flexibility.  Is there a limitation to the flexing, ie pad coming closer to the palm, as well as extending?  It is hard to stretch ligaments and you might not get back to the same joint range as before the injury.  If you try to stretch them too forcefully you will probably just (temporarily) inflame them as you have discovered. 

I suggest you try to gently but firmly stretch DIP joint extension without putting any large load through the joint.  Like this:



Start gently (10 second holds, 5-6 times?) and see how the joint responds.  If it isn't sore, gradually increase the dose (hold time, number of repetitions) and pressure exerted.  You are aiming to get close to similar flexibility to your unaffected hand before crimping with any load on it.  This might take several months.  Then try crimping on your board at 10% bodyweight (measure with feet on bathroom scales) and build up from there. 

If you can't do this without the joint becoming sore after then you need to talk to a professional.  You should probably do this anyway. 

[douglas]

My DIP joints don't hyperextend (they used to) so I basically just crimp on the tips. If I bend just my PIP joints my pads don't touch my hand by about a centimeter (they used to). I also can't do that thing- here's the church, here's the steeple with my hands either (I used to)...

I think this used to hurt, I remember having slightly swollen DIP joints but they're fine now and I just climb as I like. I definitely cannot make the position in the photo in the last post, my middle finger is not flat on the table and the index finger is straight at the DIP joint.

[Lopez]

What was the final diagnosis and have you asked anyone professional what to do about this? 

Nope. My doctors diagnosis and treatment for anything and everything is: "Nothing wrong here, have a Nurofen if it hurts". 

Is there a limitation to the flexing, ie pad coming closer to the palm, as well as extending? 

Not really, but that's probably 'cause i noticed long time ago i was having problems to make a fist and have been stretching accordingly.

I like the idea of the table-top stretches, so far this is as much flex as i can achieve, and i was making considerable force!



Thanks

[tomtom]

Thats about as good as I can do.. and theres nothing supposedly wrong with my claws fingers! eek!