[Pantontino]

Ding Dong had a very brief look at Monoblock, but aside from that no-one else tried it.

The general consensus was that 7a+ for Catalepsy and 7b for Breakaway was about right. Ding Dong did comment that he thought Bernie felt about the same as Catalepsy.

There was less agreement about Hart's Arete - some people seemed to find this harder than Catalepsy! In the end a begrudging 'top end V5' was accepted.

The main complaint about the grades was on the easier problems, which seemed to be given very harsh/inconsistent grades. That said, this was just a flying visit and no doubt there are tricks that the locals know which would even the grades out in the lower range.

[Scouse D]

Have to agree with the hart's arete thing, I've never managed to get it totally wired. Bernie on the other hand seems much easier than catalepsy- prob right at 7a/V6. I also agree with catalepsy and breakaway grades.

[dave]

i found a good sequence for hart's arete, made it feel fine, bout V4. you basically only use one handhold to get to the crimp beneath the jug. see photo from couple of years back - key for me was getting the thumb on the pebble enabling a good pinch grip, high left foot and sit up into it. note that this beta won't work for stumpies or those with doll's hands. no idea how i came by this beta though.



need to get back there when its not raining and do more stuff. great crag.

[andy popp]

Thanks Simon and others. Actually did both Catalepsy and Breakaway today - first time I've been on the former in several years. Seemed perhaps a little more than half a grade difference but then its only grading. Hart's Arete is of course the ultimate example of the mythical 'Pex 6a'

Simon, I'm not surprised re: your comment on the easier lines - was this on the same wall or on the 'bouldering wall' (Pisa)?

[Andy F]

I use a similar sequence, go to the middle side-pull with your right, left foot on the big foothold low down, right foot on a smeary dimple just left of the first side pull and then pop up to the slot (or big jug above) with your left hand. Can also be done one handed by popping up with your right hand, not touching the rock with your left at all. No need to use the horible pcket out right  

BTW did you know it was given V2 by Pete Chadwick in the Cheshire guide  :shock:

[r-man]

I'm getting quite inspired by these photos. Maybe I'll try and convince my friends it's worth a trip from sheffield. I've never been before so:

1. What are the conditions like at this time of year? Does it dry fast after rain?

2.How long does it take to drive from Sheffield?

3.Are there enough quality problems in the 7's? ...Or should I resign myself to struggling on infamous Pex 6as for a first visit?

4.Is the western grit rockfax currently the best guide, or is there another? Anything online?

[dave]

we were there whilst it was raining adn then it stopped but it didn't seem to dry mega fast, suppose it depends on how windy it is and how clean the place is. the consolation prize is that the steep bouldering bit awards you with a few good fallback eliminate dyno ticks which stay dry.

[Andy F]

I'm getting quite inspired by these photos. Maybe I'll try and convince my friends it's worth a trip from sheffield. I've never been before so:

1. What are the conditions like at this time of year? Does it dry fast after rain?

2.How long does it take to drive from Sheffield?

3.Are there enough quality problems in the 7's? ...Or should I resign myself to struggling on infamous Pex 6as for a first visit?

4.Is the western grit rockfax currently the best guide, or is there another? Anything online?

Yep, worth a visit. It's been very dry over here so it's in decent nick. Parts stay bone dry all year round. From Sheffield I'd guess 2 hrs max. There's a few good problems in the 7's, more than enough for a visit. The best available current guide is Western Grit, but as I stated earlier I'd be more than happt to give you the tour.

[andy_e]

I'd be up for seeing some pex... so to speak.

r-meistro, where be thee next weekend? You up for it with the Draisey and the Sainsbury?

[r-man]

Cheers guys, sounds good. Andy F, I'll get in touch if we come up, though unfortunately I'm not the driver so I don't have the last word... Anyone got any more photos showing off Pex's finest fingery feasts of fun? They might help me persuade...

Andi_e, like I said, I'll have to wait and see what tothers want to do.

[Jim]

photo's won't persaud you but there is some good climbing plus the most sandbagged problem in the world!

[Andy F]

Which problem is that then? Oh, who ever goes, you've got to do the Knife, it's the best line in the place.

[andy_e]

What grade is the Knife? What classics in the V0-V4 range?

[Andy F]

The Knife is E5 6a (sort of very highball V3/4ish...).  Classics are Lady Jane (V1), Lady Jane Direct (V2), Creeping Jesus (V2. Highball), Bermuda Triangle (V4), Pisa wall Traverse (V3), Cosine Alternative (V4), Algripper (V2, quite Highball), Twinscoops direct (Soft V3), Mankey Road (V2), Cornea (V2) for starters...

[clm]

NW overhang - SANDBAG

[andy_e]

Jeez!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=167201&v=1
Just thought I'd alert your attention

[nik at work]

For some reason I thought Harts Arete would be... well an arete.

Oh well.
Is it all sodden now after last nights rain or could it potentially be dry tomorrow/friday?
Any updates on condition appreciated...

[BenF]

The Knife is E5 6a (sort of very highball V3/4ish...)

Advice for anyone heading to Pex to try this "sort of very highball" problem.  It's a fantastic "problem" but take plenty of mats, it must be at least 30 foot high.  And doesn't have the best landing in the world.  Top sandbag there Andy.

All the rest of Andy's suggestions I'd agree with and add that there are loads more excellent things to do there, including some good traverses of course.  

In response to Nik, it's probably still reasonably dry at the moment, but much more rain will probably leave just Pisa wall climbable (admittedly this is an excellent little wall though).  If the forecast for dry weather proves correct, then it should be pretty mint come Friday.  But don't hold me to that...