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Who can suggest me some quality peak 6's? (Read 3127 times)

rginns

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Who can suggest me some quality peak 6's?
March 19, 2008, 01:30:32 pm
Having bouldered my first Brownstones 6a on Tuesday (cheers for the spotting GCW!) I'm looking to draw up a list of quality 6a's and some 6b's to aim for this year.

Can anyone suggest some? style of problem doesn't really matter as I'd like a bit of variety!

preferably Lancashire / Western Peak but anywhere really!

Cheers!
Rick ;-)

cofe

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3 pocket slab at The Roaches - think that's 6a-ish. a fine problem.
Fielder's Corner at Baldstones - 6b?
Ripple at Newstones - 6b.
Staffs Flyer - 6b and amazing.

fairly varied too those are, to be sure.

dave

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that thing at the 3rd Cloud - Persistence, is very good, as is the very smeary slab problem further on. Also while you're there if you're feeling bold have a look at finger of fate, its a stunning line.

also go to the newstones, everything there around 6a is great.

rginns

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cheers chaps

I'll give them a look for the list.

any more for any more?

andy_e

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Get on Conan the Librarian (6b+ at Mother Cap). Your quarried crimping skills will be useful and it's an amazing problem!

paul hesketh

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fish groove and fish arete are very good at wimberry

also slap happy on sloping top

Ste_d posting as P_H

Andy B

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Western Peak:

Think Tank at Wimberry

Swivel finger at nth cloud

The Pinches at ramshaw

Just in case you happen upon it: The Gates, at the Roaches, is given B5 in the old rockfax guide, 6a+ in Ru's guide, is brilliant, and is the most undergraded problem I have ever come across.

Eastern Peak:

new york new york at stanage

All quiet on the eastern front at burbage north

technical master at millstone

A beagle too far at baslow

the arete between the quarries at burbge south (only 5+ in Ru's guide but very good)

Go west at burbage west

My left foot at Stanton
« Last Edit: March 19, 2008, 07:26:31 pm by Andy B »

Somebody's Fool

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Summit Arete is probably the essential tick for Western grit climbers.  It's kind of borderline between the sixth and seventh grades so is a good one to aim for.

If quarries are your bag then Hobson Moor is also a must.  Loads to go at there with a good imagination/Jim.

cofe

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Summit Arete is probably the essential tick for Western grit climbers.

have you been cold chilling with puff the magic dragon?

Jim

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smoking crack pipes more like.
Hobson moor is good tho... really good infact

rginns

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cheers everyone looks like there's plenty to be getting on with ;-)

GCW

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Just to clarify, rginns did his first British Tech 6a.

Suggestions for Font 6s:
Wimberry 
Local hero/ Baxter's Wall
Groove on the Stream Boulder
Slap Happy
Think Tank

The Roaches
I'd second 3 pocket slab.  Great problem.
Start to Ascent of Man (go as high as you dare)
The nose thing on the boulder below Roscoe's Wall

Burbage and Curbar have some good things.  Strawberries and The Remergence Arete thingy spring to mind.

Also within reach for you:
Loads at The Kebs (Bridestones) Shhhhh
Almscliff and Caley (and Ilkley) aren't too far and have good stuff to go at.  Flying Arete, Morrell's Wall, etc

Fair bit to go at in the South Lakes/North Lancs area too.  Burnt Heather at Thorn is awesome, and there's plenty more there too.
Give me a shout if you're heading out.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2008, 11:31:09 pm by GCW, Reason: Spelling like a prat »

Jim

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Wimberry should be just coming into condition as well me thinks. Time to get down there

Johnny Brown

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Quote
Summit Arete is probably the essential tick for Western grit climbers.  It's kind of borderline between the sixth and seventh grades so is a good one to aim for.

This is nonsense, its a proper 7, back when The Fool was climbing similar grades to the OP he was in awe of it. Don't waste your time on a visit unless you live in Congleton.

There is some nice mid grade limestone bouldering at Hutton Roof near Kirby Lonsdale. Just the ticket for a May evening session.

Jim

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Can this be?!??!! Johhny recomending bouldering on slimestone?

GCW

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You are hallucinating, Jim.
To be fair, it's a pleasant outlook with some clean, lower grade problems.  And it isn't Silverdale, so no insect bumming is needed.

Andy B

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Hutton Roof is indeed a lovely spot wth nice rock, although I would have regarded most things there as short routes rather than bouldering. Similar in height to Scugdale or the majority of Slipstones.

Johnny Brown

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Hutton roof, lets see - problems above chest height - tick. problems go to the top of the crag - tick. Then actually top out - tick. Lovely open setting, nice views, flat grassy landings. All in all a suitable place to go bouldering.

Its too short to bother with a rope, and most stuff eases considerably after the mid-height break.

Jim

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sounds good for the summer then. Is it ok to get to with a baby in tow?

Bonjoy

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Winmore End ticks all those boxes too, but is maybe a bit to far away

Jim

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where is this jon?

Bonjoy

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It's near Appletreewick, north of A66 Scotch Corner to Penrith road

Bonjoy

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Nice for highball 6s, mostly pretty vertical. Flat grassy landing and top-out.
Typical shot

Andy B

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Hutton roof, lets see - problems above chest height - tick. problems go to the top of the crag - tick. Then actually top out - tick. Lovely open setting, nice views, flat grassy landings. All in all a suitable place to go bouldering.

Its too short to bother with a rope, and most stuff eases considerably after the mid-height break.

I would agree with all of this except that it's all very well too say its too short to bother with a rope when you're confident and experienced enough to be fairly sure that you're not going to fall off. There is good bouldering at Hutton Roof, but is it mainly routes, many of which I lead.

Careless Torque eases considerably with height, but I still wouldn't want to fall off the top. It's all relative to your grade.

lagerstarfish

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Get on Conan the Librarian (6b+ at Mother Cap). Your quarried crimping skills will be useful and it's an amazing problem!

 :goodidea: I can't crimp to save my life, but this is one of the best sixes around  :thumbsup:

 

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