[Houdini]

Seconded.

So beta dependent it's almost crap.  Not that anything at Pex is crap, you understand.

[Zods Beard]

Hart's Arete start at Pex if you're going on Pete's guide (V2/Eng 6a!) and there's no locals with beta handy.

 

[Andy F]

Hart's Arete start at Pex

Just leave it at that Andy. The essential sandbag.

[Banana finger]

Wavelength in the pass. Ting is nails! Im no beast but i certainly know what a 7b+ should feel like n this aint it.
Is there some trickery/faggotry that im missing out on?
Mind you saying that quite a lot of the things in the pass feel reasonably hard for their grade. Leos dyno for instance....7a?!

[r-man]

Leos dyno for instance....7a?!

Gets 7a+ here:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Llanberis%20Pass%207+8s%20Version%205.pdf

[Richie Crouch]

I thought Loose Cannon harsh at 6c/+?! Leo's was fine in comparison 

[Doylo]

Wavelength in the pass. Ting is nails! Im no beast but i certainly know what a 7b+ should feel like n this aint it.
Is there some trickery/faggotry that im missing out on?

right toehook round the arete works for some, agree its nails!

[Jim]

that vid reminds me.... pebble wall at almscliff
so hard. maybe one day I'll do it

[BenF]

Hart's Arete start at Pex if you're going on Pete's guide (V2/Eng 6a!) and there's no locals with beta handy.

I thought you wanted all the Pex grades kept harsh.   

Oh yeah, you didn't actually say that the grade should change did you?  I know people that reckon V6 is right for it.  I also know people that climb harder than V6 that can't do it. 

[Shy Ted]

most problems in yorkshire are nails but a few stand out:

pedestal arete at caley with heelhook: 7b+ my ass

new jerusalem sitter: again, 7b+!!??

handy andy's at earl: 7a, wot the fock?

[SA Chris]

that vid reminds me.... pebble wall at almscliff
so hard. maybe one day I'll do it

It only took me 2 years of constant work, visiting Almscliff on a regular basis.

[dave]

most people I know do the keel before doing pebble wall!

don't think handy andy's is too bad for 7a, certainly no harder than middleing 7a+. i think it looks and seems a lot harder at first, but it is pretty basic.

[Shy Ted]

i think it looks and seems a lot harder at first, but it is pretty basic.

exactly, you must have a certain amount of strength to do it.  i don't reckon ur average 7a climber would find that problem ok

[Stubbs]

I think the fact that it's basic means it's very hard to grade if you're stronger than the grade of the problem, which is why I guess Steve downgraded it.  I think it feels closer to 7B.

Pebble wall, as with most things is all in the beta, left heel in the little cup with the side of the foot locked in against the wall below, thumb spragging lower pebble with the right. I guess it's the foot hop that most people don't get on with, but there is an alternate step through sequence too.

[Bonjoy]

I wouldn't argue with 7a+ for Handy Andy's. Seem to remember it being little easier than Sloping Beauty. But it's been a few years since I did them.
Pebble Wall feels fine with the right beta, but would still probably get 7a if it was a random problem at a random crag rather than an old school classic at Almscliff.

[SA Chris]

I think I tried about a zillion different sequences over the years. Heel in the little cup never worked for me (too tall?), I could only ever do it with ball of toe in little cup (beta courtesy HKStuey, I believe) and bear down like mad on right hand crimp / edge to reach high pebble with left. Tall man beta I think.

[Jim]

easy 7b for handy andy's in my book, basic but hard pulling. Did soping beauty before this
Pebble wall, despite being shown all the sequences under the sun, I still can;t do it. Also I think the keel is easier than this