Cheers people.
Teaboy, there are lots of other problems at Troy, though these two and a nearby 7A wall, Troy a Little Tenderness, are the best. The obvious pinnacle in the centre of the quarry has some fun easy stuff. Meat in The Middle climbs the pinnacle to the left of Magic Beans, without the left arete (this is a 6A) or holds in the crack to the right. It's quite good, with a high rockover and a very vague pinch.
This area is Little Buttress and lies just over the boulder bridge at the far end of the quarry. To reach it you can either: 1. Enter the quarry by the normal route and head left to skirt round the lake, then cross the boulder bridge (possibly best on first visit, but takes longer). Or 2. Follow an approach path that leads uphill on the left side of the quarry, then cross a sort of stile at the top of the hill and drop down the slope to the boulder bridge.
There are also some projects in a recessed bay on the other side of the quarry, including an attractive hanging slab. Unfortunately the landing drops away just where you need it, but perhaps with a stack of doubled pads (6 minimum?) you could sort it. It does look really good.
I can send you a topo if you pm me your email.
