[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 30   
Indoor:1 
Training 6

A double weeks post this week - as I seem to have over-run last week...

Worship the Crimp

Two weeks ago on Monday (8th April) I was off on more work travel to Vienna in the afternoon/evening - so I had enough time to get out in the morning to Helsby in the woods. All was good - except on my third problem I pulled a beautiful crimp off of one of the problems there.. It wasnt wet - it just came off complete in my hand as I pulled past it. This really took the wind out of my sails - as its one of the nicer natural Cheshire sandstone butressess, and I had just ruined one of the nicer featured holds on it... Theres not a great deal you can do with Sandstone as I understand it - I have the hold, but I dont know who well it will respond to glue.. the problem still works - its just harder as the decent crimp hold has now gone... I sat under the crag for about 20 min feeling a bit glum, then (surprisingly) flashed the V6 traverse - feeling light and glidey - but enthusiasm suitably dented I left. Packed up and off to Vienna until Thursday...

So, a week of talking, conferencing and working - but friday was free - and I wanted to get out. Sadly, UK weather PLC has having a grey claggy one - and not much looked on. But first I need to witter on about limestone. Last summer I didnt touch any limestone. Nada. Not a jot. Nothing. And I had a very good summer... Previous summers I have tried to get into the lime, but just ended up with tweaky fingers and sore elbows. So last year I just had some warm grit and spent some time on the sandstone in Cheshire - which is pretty accommodating of the warm conditions...

Having felt light, glidey and pulling well on the smaller holds I decided to head to Rubicon on Friday - everywhere else seemed damp - and I figured there was a fair chance of finding some OK rock. Rubicon is a bit of an odd place for me.. I can do none of the 7's... (I dont include the new one that blatantly isnt a 7..) and it seems I always flail up a *bigger *splash* *prize *tail (re-arrange the words after the * in any order to give the problem name) etc.. Arriving there about 11, it was damp but OK underfoot - though the RH side with the few 6's and the warm up traverse was spoogey. Slimey really in that limestone condensation style. Some lads over at Kudos said it was OK - so I wandered over and started work on a Millers Tale. This problem probably is a 6 something when you know it - but at first aquaintance and if you've not been on it for over a year - it takes a while to work out the 6 something sequence rather than the probably 7 very inefficient way... 3 or 4 go's in (aware I was looking like a total punter to the gents powering up harder things to my right) it went OK. In fact it felt very good - tight - feet stuck, body moved nicely, fingers crimped vice like on the edges.

"I think I might be enjoying this" passed (briefly) through my mind - I'd not had lime feelings like this before or for a very long time. Actually probably never..

So, I udged over to bigger splash trout prize eliminate kudofrazzle X (the one that rises and traverses R-L via the flakes and the finger mincing pocket to start with.. and it felt OK.. I got about as far as I've ever got, and felt out of condition but plenty of promise... trying one to the left (hanging from two crimps rising rightwards etc..) had two good go's then it felt like I was out of beans - made my excuses and trundled back to the car. But this was odd, as I may have had a pleasant Peak limestone bouldering experience.. It was blatant to me that my crimp was on. The small hold was feeling good this year - maybe consolidated finger strength, maybe weight loss, maybe I needed a hair cut - whatever, it all combined and I was feeling some love for the smaller hold...

Then the weather was shit and I spent 90 min on Sunday hanging from the Beastmaker - on small holds - and they felt good again. What was wrong with me!

Anyway, one week turns into another and now we're into this power club week.. Work monday > wednesday, and I nearly went out on Tuesday evening to the Cliff of righteousness, but it was blowing hard in Hull - which meant it was dangerously windy there.. so I didnt. Instead I made plans to get out on Wednesday on my commute back to Manchester. Wed was still windy - and not really sure of a venue with showers forecast pretty much anywhere, I settled to head up to Holmfirth. It should be sheltered from the strong S/SW winds and I needed to meet up with Grubes (from Hudds) to give him a bouldering mat I was selling.. I really like Holmfirth. I dont know why - but I do - in particular the wall with Holmeward Bound (6C) on it - which has some fine crimpy balancy problems. It took me 3 or 4 tries to get it - but again, body position and fingers were working well with the smaller hold..

I then moved left to try 'mad mantle' - at 7A+ its probably the hardest problem at the crag and (according to Grubes) has not had a repeat for many years. This is probably due to a ledge at knee height (from standing) which sticks out about 15 cm.. enough to cause some damage but small enough to be able to avoid if you jump rather than slither from the wall above.. It involves pulling on with a good (RH) 1cm flatty hold and shitty (lh) two finger mini crimp, getting both feet on reasonable smears, then bringing the RF up to share the RH hold then stepping up to a large flatty and the mantle - which isnt mad, its really quite easy. But the moves below are quite mad - and really very very good.. Grubes had turned up by the time I managed it (6 or 7th attempt) and it was a bit of a YYFY moment... one where you're not sure you're going to get it and - boom - it all works out I then spent 30 min trying the 7A left of Holmeward bound - which really nearly nearly went, but I snatched a defeat - and gave up as skin was in desparately short supply and about to go through on my right tip.

Friday. A lovely day, and I had a text from Andy Popp, who was heading out to Harmers to try some new problems in the now clear middle quarry. Its not very big, and probably will only yield a couple of lines but is a worthy addition to the circuit and is 15 seconds from the car park.. see below:

Put up by Andy Popp on Friday.. In the small quarry in between the two main ones. Line immediately to the left went today to Andy as well.

I didnt manage it - Andy is the crimpy rockover meister - and I am not! I got to Andys position in the pic with a desparate undercut and some foot udging - slapped for the top and didnt hold it We had a play in the main quarry too - that was in fine condition - I had a play on Babybloc (7A+) and Andy pointed out a nubbin for my feet that I'd not seen before. But I wasnt feeling fresh so left it for another day. In the third quarry - the far LH one, we finished the really pleasant afternoon with a superb V2 arete - and a fantastic problem up the two big flakes/cracks running up the RH wall. Brilliant sideways mantle reach move - the kind of move you get on a 3* VS

So Sunday - today - and with rain forecast late morning I dived out of bed at 8:30 with the intention of heading to Harmers before it got wet. Psyche was high but controllable, and I was gunning for Babybloc with my new nubbin based beta! Warm ups, aretes, walls (its a lovely quarry) and I was feeling relaxed and flowing well.. First attempt - felt tight but getting the foot up to the nubbin worked. Next go - same point, then tried moving my LF up high to a waist height hold (at this point your just in balance holding two high thin crimps - its a real stretched out balancy position) - and nearly. But it felt within me. 3rd attempt.. sketchy start, slithery feet but outside of RF on nubbin - felt good, LF squeezed up to the hold. Wow. Felt perfect, udge up and a reach with the LH - new hold and progress.. RH up too, feet up, snatch to a good ledge and all over. Brilliant - a nemesis of about 3 years done! what a great problem too - delicate, some cimp pulling and dainty footwork required, but when all the numbers lined up it felt perfect.

So, on a roll, I moved over to Yates Layaway (6B+ I believe) which follows a faint rib and a testy final move - that I've never done! Great climbing and - well the clip tells the story..



Sadly, I hurt the A2 in my RH pinky on the send (well at least I got it!) - if you turn up the sound at about 1:43 you can hear the scratchy snappy noise (and watch for the mincing victory dance on the way down!). Like the last time I did an A2, there was no feeling just noise - then it went a bit numb. Taped up at the moment and its not completely buggered, just stretched/torn a little So a little NNFN at the end of two YYFY's... at least its my pinky - so wont get in the way of climbing too much. Though I'm not sure how much its going to change my new found love for the smaller hold....

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Brief session at TCA on the new Mothership set, didn't do anything too hard, but some good looking problems with some cool new shapes to try over the next few weeks.
T - Wall with 3yr old daughter, just spotting her and chatting.
W - Cheddar in PM with Cha1n, Lukeh and Paul T, to try Ben West's new 7C . Great problem, can't believe I never tried it a couple of years ago when Omar15 was projecting it. PE problem, 12 moves by my sequence and no real crux. Got the moves quickly, then failed three times on the last move, two of those with my hand on the finishing jug, plus twice more on the penultimate move good session overall though - should go next time, and it's a nice spot.
T - Aching pecs, and weirdly, triceps from tombstone - don't often get proper muscular ache from climbing, need to do more compression...
F - still aching pecs and triceps from weds, TCA session in evening on new mothership set, did two around the 7A+/B mark, couple of easier ones, and worked the moves on a few harder things.
S - work
S - work

Not weighed myself this week, but expect I'm still 69-70 ish

Nice to have some psyche back.

[fried]

Good report TT.

Today is a good day, it's officially the end of my period of moving, family parties and I've been given the freedom of the forest now I've upheld my duties as gracious host, blah, blah, blah.

Monday - Work
Tuesday - Indoor - Bit of a chesty something but climb O.K. Lots of strange competition problems i.e. Technically easy but thought provoking balancy traverses that are rare indoors, love it.
Wed - Thurs - Nothing.
Friday - Brief BM session, too much shit to prepare.
Saturday - Missus' birthday bash. Lots more work, but fun as I'm in charge of making Margaritas.
Sunday - Hungover, relax, read, nice day. Don't wish I was in the forest too much. And manage a couple or sets on the BM.

[csl]

April Goals
At least 20 sessions climbing 10/20
Rehab finger - feels like its not really improved in a couple of weeks.
7b indoors
Get outside twice 1/2
Run 17.50 Parkrun

Mon - climbing - hard circuits and ARC
Tue - some hard problems then 20:10's and ARC
Wed - wall being reset - felt ill anyway
Thu - ILL - went to the wall anyway. New problems are all pretty shit and overgraded. O/S lots of problems, realistically up to about v5 - not the V7+ listed.
Fri - more climbing on new problems up to V5 probably. Bad skin from the new/newly cleaned holds.
Sat -
Sun - will attempt to go to the wall a bit later when it's going to be quieter. Need to make up some new circuits and do a PE session.

Been ill this week, feeling better now. Had a fairly major change in circumstances Friday so now totally free of commitments to live in the South. Psyched to try and move up north again, just need to find a job in Leeds or Sheffield.

Finger (A2 pulley strain) was injured around 2 months ago now, it got lots better quickly, but has not really been improving for a few weeks. I'm very lazy with icing etc and tend to just massage it. Does anyone think icing will make a big difference to its recovery?

[Muenchener]

STG: Redpoint 7a (most likely indoors). Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T:
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short endurance circuits session after work. Finished a 6b+ second go, which wouldn't be that big a deal except it's the first time I've actually finished anything since February. So, good.
F:
S: Planned Frankenjura weekend was rained off. Spring-cleaned the flat; yoga
S: Consolation day out to Auerwandl: little sport crag in the Bavarian Alps. Pretty much my first ever venture into proper sport climbing: belaying a new climbing partner on his 7c project. My project turned out to be a 6b involving hold breakage, a crux dyno to a hidden wet jug, and much falling off on both accounts. No tick, but the most falls I've ever taken outdoors in a day, which will do me more good in the long run. Made my way to the anchors on the 7c, half a move at a time on a bowstring-tight toprope: good experience to see that something like this is at least conceivable.

[nai]

good run, tomtom.  Shame about the finger, hopefully won't slow you down too much

slow week, still injured, swam 1km on Tue and ran 6km on Thursday. Did some core Wednesday too, tried again on Friday but 10s into first plank decided to have a beer instead.

Beginning to think elbow problem is actually a shoulder problem manifesting in the elbow, seeing physio again tomorrow so see what he makes of my research/internet diagnosis.

[chillax]

STG: Rehab ankle (getting there)
MTG: E4, 7B
Weight: 69.5kg

M: Nowt
T: Gravity. Decent session. Actually fell off a couple of times.
W: Zilch
T: Gym. 1hr bike, WFH Back & Chest, Core, Ankle exercises.
F: Glendo. Tried various crimpy projects suitable for gimpy attempts. Need slightly stronger fingers, and to shift the last of the America/Aid climbing pudge, then might be able to do something reasonable.
S: Nothing
S: Gym. 1hr bike, Core, Ankle exercises. First midge sighting of the year. Arsebiscuits.

Ankle well on the way to recovery, which is promising. Weather might be getting a bit too warm to be able to do things in Wicklow without alpine starts or night sessions, but where theres a will theres a way. Need to shift the last of my aid climbing belly and get back to fighting weight.

[csl]

April Goals
At least 20 sessions climbing 11/20

Sun - Climbing - Strength and PE. Some hard boulders then 20minutes density

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime. Felt tired but then was OK and even did a 3 I hadnt done before
T Drove to Aberystwyth after work and had some great beer when we got there from the Salopian brewery called Lemon Dream. If you ever need or want to go there stay at the Glengower hotel. Great sea view rooms. Smart beer and very good service at a good price.
W Beastmaker when got back from Aber
T Foundry lunchtme. Similar to Monday where felt tired but felt good and strong after a while
F Bradley edge on way home from Coventry. Few problems including Morris Dancing but the thing to go back for is Swingers party which looks like great fun
S big gardening sess
S Gardoms where I failed on lots of things including the last move of English Voodoo. Did a fearful orange which I found harder than I expected bt very good.


Achilles about the same as is shoulder. Will try and see Steve Hodgson this week if
i get time with work. Off to Aber again tomorrow

[Muenchener]

tentative yoga session with local dominatrix ... attention was drawn to my terrible posture, inability to breathe, etc. Useful, I think?

Iyengar? Well taught yoga is generally a good thing, but I personally never got on with the constantly-criticise-everything style that seems to be typical of Iyengar yoga teachers. (although BKS Iyengar is a genius, absolutely no doubt about that). I preferred to look for a more constructive teaching style.

But if you enjoy it ...

[Luke Owens]

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+ and stop overtraining...
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Rest - Son still ill

Tuesday - Rest - Son still ill

Wednesday - Feet on Fingerboarding -
3 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)
2 x (1:00 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)
This session almost killed me! I've never been so pumped in my life...

Thursday - Weighted Deadhangs

20mm edge
Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10 secs, 5kg - 10 sec, 7.5kg - 10 secs - 3 minutes rest between.

Main Set
10kg 5 hangs with 3 minutes rest between - 7 sec, 7 sec, 7 sec, 8 sec, 7 sec

Should of done this after a rest day, seriously tired...

Friday - Pinfold - Amazing weather, felt like summer!
2nd a mate on an E2 6a, felt like a good warm up, nothing too hard

Dogged up Lickin' Lollipops (7b) - Intense fingery affair hardly steep at all, really technical climbing (move a hand move feet twice kinda thing).

Enjoyed the moves, felt hard initially but once sequence worked out felt OK but a lot to remember. Let my mate have a go, he worked out his own beta.

I had a non-confident redpoint attempt as it was getting late. Got to the crux and just as I thought I'd forgot everthing, fail. Obviously didn't know it well enough.

Lowered so my mate had time to try. He got it first RP, I had a go on top-rope at dusk and managed a better sequence and confident I can have a good redpoint attempt next time.

Saturday - Static Bike - 22km in an hour. Should of rested felt so tired...
Did some Antagonist training too, weights - Shoulders, Triceps, Biceps and Forearms.

Sunday - Llanddulas
Well psyched to get out but felt stupidly tired. Got completely pumped into oblivion on a warm up 6b and fell off... Felt like cramp in my right forearm and golfers elbow was playing up...

Put the clips in a 7a I had tried previously. Fell off the first move on redpoint... then managed to scrape my way past the first 2 clips next go almost powering out on easy moves on jugs then slipped off an easy move higher up. 3rd go I almost fell off the start again then just got stupidly pumped higher up. Felt sacked and belayed my friend all day instead, felt like my arms stayed pumped all day...

I think I've become a victim of over-training, I definitely haven't been listening to my body and I'm really annoyed at myself. Training is supposed to be about getting stronger/fitter to climb outdoors yet I'm hitting the crag unrested, unfit and getting annoyed at myself for doing to much.

I've always been able to push myself to train that's easy for me and I always think I'm never doing enough even, but I neglect the fact my body can't keep up!

I need a much needed rest now, live and learn!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always!

M: Works bouldering - Hard(ish) did whites and the odd blue.
T: Rest.
W: Works bouldering - Tired, did more whites tho! AeroCap to finish.
T: Rest.
F: Works bouldering - Tired again. AeroCap to finish.
S: Walked up to Rivelin but forgot the guide, tried to locate Sparks but went the wrong way. Did some soloing (scared myself) and tried summat nails!
S: Frenchies and hangs while waiting for the kids to get their shit together to go for a walk.

Not a bad week: Definitely feeling stronger although think I'm sickening for something as I'm exhausted and full of snot! The plan was to rest this week anyway before the PE stuff starts in earnest this week so I'm not too worried.. Reckon I'm gonna be shit tho!

:D

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Pleasley Vale bouldering. Repeated lots of problems, did the 6A+ I couldn't do last year- felt easy. Interested to see that extensive vegetation removal has taken place! 
W- Notts depot. Felt way too hot- need to start taking shorts. Tried to take up where I left off on the circuit board but only managed 3.5 laps with two minute rests. Did some bouldering after but was crap.
T- Rest.
F- Rest. Drive down to Portland.
S- Wallsend. Great weather (although it was a bit greasy before the sun came round)! Did a 6a+ then a 6b. Feeling very shaky on lead and hung on the crux of the 6b without trying it. Top-roped the 7a+ my mate onsighted- felt ridiculously hard. Lots of boulder-hopping as we tried to find further bits of the crag that weren't coated in mud. Ended up at Battleship- got on lead on a 6c and suffered total mid-melt 3 bolts up. Lowered off, tried it again, experienced similar (although I at least took a leader fall off it) and bailed.
S- Cuttings. Decided to go for easy mileage to get head straight- 2 6a+s clean, one 6b dog (with falls), top-roped another 7a+ but bailed at the crux. Last lead felt like a bit of a breakthrough- didn't feel apprehensive before and climbed confidently, with the uncertain bits feeling enjoyable at last. Drive back from Dorset.

Not feeling positive at all about my climbing at all this week. Progress on every route at the weekend though.

[kelvin]

Started brightly but ended badly. Bit like my love life the past ten years.

Mon - Warmed up on the new incomplete boulder set at Pinnacle. No grades but flashed the V0/1s that were up. Then a session with Alex Fry. Basically got put through a Power Endurance session, as that seems to be a problem for me. Worked 6b+ (one move higher, get in) then settled on a 6b I can get to the top of with a rest or two. Up, minutes rest and go. Then on a (hard) 5+. Idea being to show me what sort of pump I need to achieve. Then fingers - foot on on campus rail, slopers and flat thing. one set on each hold type, each set 14 x 7/3. Fourteen (?!!!?) was his attempt to kill me. Then after, I went back in the boulder room for a play but rather too knackered.
Tue - Rested. Arms mullered. 50 dynamic.
Wed - Had to work.
Thu - 60 pressups. TRoped 4+ x 2, then PE on 6a+, 6b, 6b+. Finished by getting as high on the 6b+ as I can, then 6c to same height and first go on the other 6c on that line. Got halfway on that but had no rests between the three problems.
Fingers. 1min rest between sets. Sets of 10x7/3 with foot on. 5 sets total.
Fri - Warmed up on V0/1. Then worked a 15deg crimpy hold V3 as that's not my style at all. made some progress as worked out getting too high on holds and crap at rocking over. Tweaked knee on overhanging V3 - home furious with myself for this
Sat - 250 dynamic. Stomach bug. Made best friends with the toilet pan. Was supposed to be going out on my new road bike.
Sun - The Castle for the first time. Crap really. Have a cyst on my eye at the moment and it got so irritated I really couldn't see much. The other eye is damaged anyway. No fun. Did enjoy the slab thing but wrist was playing up too. Sacked it off.

I really am crippled I've decided. 40% movement in my right wrist, two tears in my left medial ligament that needs a brace to stop it falling apart, dodgy eye and a cyst on the other one, the right knee's had three ops now and is looking at replacement... jeez, getting to 7a is going to be an achievement.

The session with Alex - leaves me with a plan to get a bit stronger. Stronger equals more time to sort feet and work out moves.

Also realised this week that the only thing in life I lack confidence in- is climbing. Weird. It's like I'm not me when I climb unless I'm off a rope and soloing easyish stuff, then it all seems to flow. Need to sort this but no idea how.

[webbo]

Goal get rid of bad chest.
Mon. go for chest xray. Home board did a couple of projects.Achilles hurts when I've got my climbing shoes on, ended up cutting the back of an old shoe so it didn't hurt.
Tue. Bike 20 secs on 40 sec on x 5 3 sets.
Wed. Home board worked a couple of projects could do a r/h version of one and the l/h version of the other.
Thu. Turbo.
Fri. Osteopath lots of painful work on my heel.
Sat. Heel very sore first thing got easier as the morning went on. Bike 70 miles 3hr 58 mins.
Sun. Heel feels much better. Home board did the mirror image of one of Thurs problems, did 40 problems.

Still coughing up loads of junk, usually in a morning. Breathing seems fine when exercising.

[Sasquatch]

Back on the wagon after a couple of months of A2 rehab. 

Started climbing again about 2 weeks ago, and have seen rocket ship progression.  Feels pretty good.  Managed a couple of good climbing sessions, a nice peak bagging hike on Saturday, a couple of runs, and some basic strength training.  Weather is getting warmer and nicer, so outside should be open soon.  Figured it was a good time to set some goals:

1)  Realized I had gained 5kg, so now I'm on weight loss mode just to get back to normal level. Goal drop 5kg by July 1, hopefully earlier.

2) Given the volume of time and effort spent climbing and guidebook writing over the last year and a half, this summer is focused on family, so my goal is to get out climbing with the family once per week. 

3) Based off of #2 above, no real difficulty goals.  Maybe finish off an old nearby route project. 

[duncan]

STG -  Flash 7a by end July. Which should follow  if I can get...
STG - 3 days a week on for 3 months unimpeded by tweaks.
MTG - E5 and couple of big routes in Dolomites/Mello/Wendenstock/Grindenwald areas this August.
LTG - Ambitious LH+F ambitions in Alps and USA


M - Sore shoulder after 3 days on at Pembroke following 3 months off.
T - Sore-er shoulder. Ooops.
W - Rope gun indicates his availability for a whole 9 days this summer.  YYFY!
T - Book flights to Milan. Shoulder still sore.
F - Shoulder stability stuff, finger curls. Shoulder improving.
S - Brief run. Clean and Jerk with small bodyweight load x 10 (whilst anaesthetised by a couple of glass of wine).
S - Very sore shoulder. Idiot...

M - Short run
T - Shoulder stability stuff, finger curls
W - Shoulder stability stuff, finger curls
T - Shoulder stability stuff, finger curls
F - Short run
S - Drove from London to Tiverton, negotiated purchase of item of furniture, returned to Weston, nipped out to Cheddar and grabbed couple of easy routes (6b, 6b+) with Mike Highbury and the former scourge of the sport climbers. Shoulder felt OK.
S - Shoulder stability stuff, finger curls


Schoolboy error with shoulder. This week’s lesson: don’t stop shoulder exercises ever, even if it seems completely resolved. I’ve had a good run for the last nine months and I’d let things slide. Need to rehab this yet again and get fit for Dolomites etc. this summer so...plan: increase mileage but not difficulty for one month.

Also realised this week that the only thing in life I lack confidence in- is climbing. Weird. It's like I'm not me when I climb unless I'm off a rope and soloing easyish stuff, then it all seems to flow. Need to sort this but no idea how.

Have you mentioned this to Alex Fry? All the PE in the world is not going to be much help if you freeze with a rope on. Falls practice would seem a basic minimum.

[kelvin]

Have you mentioned this to Alex Fry? All the PE in the world is not going to be much help if you freeze with a rope on. Falls practice would seem a basic minimum.

Thanks, genuinely appreciated.

Off to lead for the first time since Jan (knee injury) tonight. Should have some fall practice  but yeh, it's a thing that needs working on but it mostly seems to happen on sports routes indoors. It's not so much a fear of falling, I even had a lead winter fall this year with no issues, more I start over thinking everything else including movement. It's holding me back tho.

[shark]

11.8-10

M.
T. Eve. Foundry with Ben and Poppy. did a bit of bouldering
W.
T.
F. Malham. 4 of us on Oak. Good psyche, good session.
S.
S. Malham. Wind and drizzle blowing in. Felt tired, thin skin, did rubbish. Went for a walk around the top of the Cove and came back more positive and linked throw to the top - or would have if I'd remembered a clip for the top draw  .

Feel obligated to persist with the Oak as it is stubbornly remaining in condition. No doubt will transfer my attention to the tor when it starts to seep. I need a sport climbing trip. Or something

[tommytwotone]

Late update from me:

M: Nowt
T: Nowt
W: Depot session - shoulder still playing up so just did easy white circuit as slowly and controlled as possible - surprisingly good fun
T: out after work for a good few pints
F: Feeling pretty ropey, then off down south after work
S: Chilling out in Cambridge, got car fixed
S: At a christening

Shoulder still pretty bad, been keeping me awake at night as it's so painful. Resorted to some codeine this week and it's still pretty tweaky so trying to keep up the "active rest" but might end up on the physio's table soon.

[shark]

I need a sport climbing trip. Or something

It's unseasonably scorchio here in BC. Good time for an AGM? Son #1 is on tour in Germany (football ...) for the middle weeks of May so a road trip might be possible. Skaha/ Smith/ Horne Lake perhaps?

Fucking ace idea