[tommytwotone]

Pretty much a Font trip report for me...preamble to this is that I've not updated in a while as I spent the first 3 weeks of March in Australia with work, came home for 2 days and then jumped in the car to go to the forest!

It turns out Font isn't the place to climb oneself back into form / shape!

M - 95.2: struggled up a 6a, failed on Rudeboy, failed on Retour Aux Sources. Went out to La Padole (as it was up the road from the gite) in the evening and didn't get up anything there either!
T - Went to Paris.
W - Cuisiniere: long day, started on Reds to get eye in and finished up having done 6a, 6b and 6c.
T - Cuisiniere II: less good day, failed on a lot.
F - Cuvier Rampart, did Angle Allain, Laser and Scarface - all great problems.
S - The long drive home.
S - Nowt.

Vid to follow.

[csl]

April Goals
At least 20 sessions climbing 3/20
Rehab finger
7b indoors
Get outside twice 1/2
Run 17.50 Parkrun

Mon- 6.3km run, 28 minutes
Tue-
Wed- Hen Cloud - Good to be out, though I'm frighteningly bad at rock climbing after all this plastic. Routes up to VS, Fell off an E1! probably best not discussed.
Thu- 10.3km run, 44 minutes.
Fri- climbing, kelsey kerridge. Boulder up to V6. Some more fingery problems feeling ok. Then on the minute bouldering on everything i can do under v5 for 20 minutes.
Sat- climbing, kelsey kerridge. 2x 12 minute recovery intervals. 25 minutes ARC.
Sun- Should have run and gone climbing, but BBQ and bicycle repair took over.

[Muenchener]

STG: Climb outdoors on real rock. Redpoint 7a (most likely indoors)
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

The Night They Tore My Project Down.

M:
T:
W: Bouldering, Bradgate Park. Hardly a world class venue, but at least it's outdoors and made of real rock. At long last.
T: Fly home from UK family visit
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. My project has been taken down: this is what I get for having an indoor project. I start work on one of the replacement circuits at the same grade. This one turns out not to have a desperate stopper crux right at the end - plus! - but instead is a 40-move straightforward pumpfest. Best attempt 33/40.
S: Half an hour mobility & plank exercises. I have done far too little of anything other than the most narrow climbing-specific training lately; at my age i need to do more to take care of my general health.
S: Climbing! Hurrah! Konstein. Warm-up routes 5c, 6a, 6a+ then had a few goes on a short, sharp, bouldery 3-bolt 7a. Did the moves but didn't feel close to redpointing it; I think that would need another day's work. Still, good to be trying harder things and gathering experience.

[Luke Owens]

STG - F7b+ and Font 7A+ (In recent light of lack of endurance this may take longer than a few months now!)
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Pantymwyn Bouldering - Sent Embers (6C+) 2nd go. Great problem, got really close on the extended start which is a 6A+/B traverse problem into the 6C+ giving a 14 move 7A. Kept getting pumped on the 6C+ crux (Need to work on Power Endurance).

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Nesscliffe Bouldering - Short evening session, girlfriend and I took the little one out with us. Had some burns on The Highwaymans Traverse (6C+), got through the crux 4 times and kept getting pumped on the 5+ (V1) bit 10 moves in... frustrating failing on a problem again in the same week due to powering out...

Friday - Rest (Son was ill)

Saturday - Rest (Son was ill)

Sunday - Llanddulas Cave - Warmed up flashing Field of Dreams (F6b+). Brilliant hard to read route and a great warm up. Belaying my mate on it first didn't really help at all for the flash...

Got on Pump Action (F7a) - dogged up it to work the moves. Great climb, the first section is a really steep flowstone featured cave with a wicked throw for a jug off a 2 finger pocket and toe hook! A bit of Spain in North Wales...! The top section is your typical crimpy sustained UK route but great moves. A really cool contrast of half's!

After working out a sequence and basically flashing all the moves I rested for a redpoint attempt. 1st redpoint I got to the last bolt and just completely powered out. Again the moves aren't hard for me in the slightest, I just don't seem to be able to sustain anything lately! My redpoint tactics are fine, I knew all the moves, used the rests and certainly don't have any mental/falling issues... Same thing as above happend on the following 2 redpoints, not good!

Is this a clear indication I should go into a full on power endurance orientated cycle? I'm thinking so... I'm going to start doing moving hangs on my fingerboard with feet on. I also have a 20mm campus rung under fingerboard so I should be able to get a good pump going using both.

Anyone got any advice?

Cheers!

[iain]

Is this a clear indication I should go into a full on power endurance orientated cycle?

Not all PE is the same, Muenchener asked a similar question from the training side recently:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22006.0.html

Edit: So being pumped or powered out are different things, (see Abarro's post in above thread,) but whatever it is you've been training it already this week, do more of the same.

[Luke Owens]

Thanks Iain, so actually going to failure in training rather than pushing it just below that powering out stage would be more beneficial?

[duncan]

STG - touch dry rock. Oh Yes!
MTG - E5
LTG - Various LH+F on Alpine Rock and USA

M - Short run
T -
W -
T -
F - Pembroke - Dry rock! Glorious weather! Hurrah! Routes to E1.
S - Pembroke - More of the above.
S - Pembroke - Half day of the above.

Pembroke was as lovely as ever and completely deserted.  We were the only people on St Govan’s on an fine April Sunday. Where were you!? Snowballing or on last minute trips to the Costa del Vomit?

No training due to hurty hand this week, now a lot better due to the magical healing effects of Easy Trad.™   

Easy trad. felt quite hard (the moves easy, everything else not so) and E5 seems a long way off. I suppose this is inevitable given 3 months of crap weather, repeated illness, no climbing outside and what little training at a bouldering wall that is mostly too steep and too blobby. I need to do almost everything other than slappy 3 move problems. Most of all I need to climb outside.

[Muenchener]

being pumped or powered out are different things

This is quite a new phenomenon for me, probably because I've started trying harder things than I ever have before. On the short, bouldery 7a I was trying yesterday, I could do the moves in isolation, and I had no feeling of pump or lactic acid burn, but when I tried to link it I just couldn't hold the holds.

[tomtom]

Having snuck in a belated 4 week overdue report at the end of last week ( http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22011.msg402729.html#msg402729 )

I can get in on time now...

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 25   
Indoor:1 
Training 5

Back from the States early Tuesday morning left me feeling pretty smashed for most of the week.. All this talk of snowballing was really interesting, but also a bit intimidating (to a man with the cahunas the size of a shrew) so I opted to lurk about at home and catch up on loads of work/email/TV that I'd missed in the previous week..

But by Friday, my sloth had broken, and I headed back to the Cliff for the first time since Keel times. I'd tried my best to 'keep my oar in' fitness wise over the last three weeks of travel, work and eating - but its always a bit of an unknown quantity when you pitch up after a break. Thankfully all systems were firing-- really well to be honest. I didnt want to do anything new - more just go over some wired problems and judge how strong or weak I was... DWR, the Slap and Crux low trav all went (on the flash apart from the slap.. grr.. I blame the wrong shoe!) and the crimpy stand to stu's/ste's (I forget which) LH felt good and nearly went (a little tester I put myself through on every visit)... Having spent so long on it, I was drawn back to the keel, and nearly got it on the first go - but didnt Anyway, my internal testing/calibration was over, and the report was that I'm in pretty good shape \o/ 

Sat - Sun - trip to London for family shizzle... went up the Shard on Sunday - was pretty cool... visibility was good - lots to see..

[highrepute]

After working out a sequence and basically flashing all the moves I rested for a redpoint attempt. 1st redpoint I got to the last bolt and just completely powered out. Again the moves aren't hard for me in the slightest, I just don't seem to be able to sustain anything lately! My redpoint tactics are fine, I knew all the moves, used the rests and certainly don't have any mental/falling issues... Same thing as above happend on the following 2 redpoints, not good!

Anyone got any advice?

Cheers!

Often when I've experienced powering out on a climb (you describe not being pumped and the moves being easy) the actual problem is my approach to the move. My most memorable experience of this was on privililege du serpent in ceuse. I kept getting to a move that I could do fine when dogging, I wasn't feeling pumped but I just couldn't muster the power to crank to the next hold. I finally realised that I was going really statically when trying the move on the dog but feeling a bit tired (or just stressed?) on the RP i kept trying to go for hold slightly more dynamically. The next RP after realising this, my 5th of the day, I pulled through statically and sent the route. Since then, if I'm repeatedly falling off a move, I always make sure to to spend a good length of time really analysing how I'm doing the move. Subtle things like the position of your thumb or how you set for the move can make a huge difference. next time you get on the route I'd say this is something you should consider.

Training wise - I don't feel I can offer much advice. Try to simulate the route you are trying as closely as possible. Longer rests that you are taking would make sense.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Think I missed a week

M-Th: AeroCap x 2, AnCap, Fingerboard, and hard(ish) bouldering -  Rest of week nowt as was away.

M: Bouldering @ Portland - Baltic, did a 7a and that's about it.
T - F: Nowt.
S: Stanage - Snowball fun - Sketched up breadline to warm up(!!), then did Big Air and Archangel - Ace!
S: Went back and did Ulyseses (after much faffing about - finally succumbed after removing the tape from my dodgy finger and putting socks on to make my sloppy boots tight enough to stop them rolling off the biggest foothold on the route!) - Nearly crapped my pants downclimbing the piss wet HVS to the left - had to give myself a good talking to after that! (massive thanks to the guy spotting (Chris I think??).

Good week all in all, not really training as such. Was supposed to be in the SW for the weekend but bailed early due to cold and a poorly daughter and am so glad I did! Never thought I'd get a chance to do Big Air being a complete pussy and really excorsised the demon of watching my mate deck off Archangel 10 years ago (ending up in the Northern). Don't care about grades and all that, just amazing climbing! Saturday was without a doubt the best day of the year so far by miles!

:D

[iain]

so actually going to failure in training rather than pushing it just below that powering out stage would be more beneficial?

Good question, I don't know the answer to that, hopefully someone else will.

My approach for any type of PE has been to make sure I get the training time, even if it means resting or lowering the intensity to complete a rep, based on something I read by Steve McClure a long time ago.
ie. if I was training for a route that took 4 minutes to redpoint I'd do 3 or 4 x4 min circuits as hard as I could and up the intensity or shorten the in-rep rest each session with proper rests between reps. Grip type is important too, if it's crimpy make sure your circuit has that, simulate the route.

and what highrepute said.

[shark]

Weight 11st 5-7

Mon. Lunch. Malham. Sunny at times. Progress on the Oak. 6 decent goes from the ground touching the horm on the 5th go. 
Tues.
Weds.
Thurs. 
Fri. Chaotic early morning then drove to Malham. Could scarcely pull on the Oak. No idea why. Ended up taking a chunk out my left ring finger. Despair     
Sat. Drove to Font 
Sun. AM. Fingertaping masterclass. Cuisiniere. Beautiful morning. Chuffed to do Bizarre, bizarre 7A but foxed by the assis

Difficult week with the kids on holiday, stuff to do at work and Sonia down in London for 2 days embroiled in a project that had gone live.

[chillax]

STG: Rehab ankle (getting better every day)
MTG (this year): E4, 7B

M - CWP fingerboard session
T - Gym. 1.5hr stationary bike. WFH Arms & Shoulders. Core.
W - Gym. WFH Back & Chest. Core.
T - Scouting projects in Wicklow. Found a few things to go back for soon. Ran a few laps on a 6C low ball lip traverse problem that I couldn't get close to when I tried it a couple of years ago.
F - Gym. WFH Phase 2 Arms & Shoulders. Core
S - 
S - 

Managed to get through the first month of John Long's Workout From Hell on my third attempt. It was brutal. YYFY. On to the second month of only doing sets of 15 reps. That combined with doing more core strength work than ever before, means I feel quite strong. Need to keep it going until I can get back on Big Trad. Generally quite Psyched

[cheque]

STG- Regain ability to stay calm when more than a few metres above the ground.
MTG- E3, 7b and 7B in 2013.

M- Portland Cuttings bouldering. Freezing cold gale and coming down with a cold. Couldn't seem to warm up. Did one 6B then sacked it off for a more pleasant coast-path walk. Checked out the sport crags there and I'm now psyched to return.
T- Ill.
W- Ill.
T- Ill.
F- Rest.
S- Stanage Plantation. The alien landscape of sun, more snow than I'd seen in my life and psyched friendly people (Hi Duncan D!  ) 'gang-banging' things I'd never seen attempted before was disorientating but ace. Did Breadline fairly quickly (quickest I've ever done a 6C  ). I'd planned to do Big Air but got distracted by how easy Archangel looked. I swiftly realised that this combined two weaknesses- laybacking and (new for 2013!) gaining any kind of height without mental meltdown stopping me making even the easiest moves succesfully. I must of fallen off the fucker 20+ times, from higher and higher before giving up. It's amazing how high you can fall onto one mat when it's on a nice flat snow platform... the fact that my last go was the highest (two moves from the break) is surely a positive result of my endurance training at least. In the meantime I did Cresent Arete first go of the session (never done it before) which was nice but felt scant reward for blowing the chance to tick Archangel. Still an ace day though.

S- Rivelin. First time on trad for more than 6 months! Great dry conditions- full-on crispiness in the woods below the edge. Decided to cruise Croton Oil to warm up before waltzing up blizzard Ridge for a nice easy day. In reality I got freaked and backed off Croton Oil and realised I'd better start from square one.  Soloed and seconded some really basic routes then got on Altar Crack. Made an absolute meal of it and fell off one move before the massive rest!  Led it second go  but it still felt a bit of a struggle, mentally rather than physically. Fuck's sake.

Coinciding neatly with the clocks going forward, this week has been the complete opposite of the previous 6- three days rock climbing and no training. Great fun but I've felt like an absolute punter. Some serious donkey work is clearly required to get over whatever mental block I have about gaining any kind of height. I am, however, encouraged by the fact that nothing I climbed (or tried to climb..) felt physically difficult- feels like I have a strong climber's body with a total beginner at the controls, which is pretty much the reverse of how I felt when I was going well last year. If I can get to the median point then I'll be a happy man!

[Dolly]

M Back on ANC but no spot so no chance. Worked out how to do 3BM but had more tape than skin so kept piling off and leaving plenty of blood and skin on the rock. Off to meet Lagers @ plantation. Failed on big air so did Breadline as a consolation which was great
T
W Sneaked off work in pm and bottled ANC for the last time. My head was just wrong for it. Good go 3BM but my shoulder killed. Failed on Witness the Gritness as well. Despondent
T tennis but shoulder and elbow hurt
F Foundry lunchtime
S short run off and on road limping with my achilles, but good to be doing it again. Tennis
S Craig y Llyn. Voie Normale stand and SS. Sitter was very powerful . Defo 7a+. Not sure if its one of the best problems of the grade in N Wales but it is good.


Shoulder not great. No better no worse. Achilles maybe slightly better

[webbo]

Mon. Travel back from Germany. Massive coughing fit,so chest still not right.
Tue. Home board manage to repeat a couple more old problems. Bike 90 mins first rde outside for 3 weks felt ok.
Wed. Nothing.
Thurs. Rockcity 2 steady circuits. Bike 1 hr 20 secs on 40 secs off 3 sets of 5.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Woke up feeling shit coughing,cried off going out down the Peak. Afternoon felt better, board repeated a problem 2nd go that took 3 sessions when i first did it, climbed quite well did a couple of mini projects. Weights. Coughing fit while eating lunch.
Sun. Bike 70 miles in 3hrs 59 mins 17 mph+ going ok no problems with my chest, arse hurt though.
Not sure whats going on with my chest infection feel great one day shit the next.

[fried]

Monday - Canche aux merciers - Didn't do much new but nice to be out, felt a bit achey so mainly did easy stuff and tried to get my outdoor mojo back before it gets too hot. Tried in vain to get off the ground on a red slab, but felt better when a couple of old bleusards told me that all the holds had worn off it since it was put up. Tried another red with no great success.
Tuesday - 2 sets of repeaters between other stuff
Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday - Folks arrive for 4 days which puts paid to any climbing next weekend.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Walk around Dame Jouane and Manoury, then beer and chips in the chalet. Lovely weather but again nice to be out.
Sunday - Organised my balcony, sat on my balcony, admired my balcony. I've never had a balcony beffore.

Weight 74.4kg slowly going up.

[Duma]

Sunday - Organised my balcony, sat on my balcony, admired my balcony. I've never had a balcony before.

sweet.

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T - TCA, no psyche, generally couldn't be arsed but managed some 90 odd move circuits to get a pump going.
W -
T -
F - TCA, brief 1hr session before eve shift. little better but still not really bothered, did a bunch of problems from the 5+ to 6C circuit. Made appt to see Osteo re golfers on Mon. Pub after work, foolishly attempted to catch up with those who'd been out all eve.
S - hungover
S -

70kg - poor effort over last few weeks.

[chillax]

Managed to get through the first month of John Long's Workout From Hell on my third attempt. It was brutal. YYFY. On to the second month of only doing sets of 15 reps. That combined with doing more core strength work than ever before, means I feel quite strong. Need to keep it going until I can get back on Big Trad. Generally quite Psyched

Hey Paul ... you are still training your strengths! I prescribe some crimping.

But training strengths is fun, and that's what its all about right....  The problem I did last week actually had a crimp on it though. Think the CWP finger boarding is helping that side of things. Have some rather crimpy projects in mind for when I can put some power through the gimpy foot. Soon hopefully...

Good luck on the new project!

[chillax]

True, been lazy on that front. Will address that this week.