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UKB Power Club Week 123 Mon 18th-Sun 24th June (Read 13373 times)

cheque

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Every week your entry is pretty much a list of my LTGs csl! You're allowed a week off you know.  ;)

Sasquatch

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Saturday was a bit of a landmark for me, not the highest grades but the quantity and consistency is new. I have objectively improved loads this year and I've been thinking about why I've seen improvement despite my lack of a 'structured' training program. The conclusions I've come to are that's it's all about the 'soft' training:

1. The fuzzy mental stuff. I'm much better at climbing without expectation but still being able to try really hard when it matters, a personally overlooked skill. (Still got a long way to go though.) I'm also dealing with the fear far better than I ever have, conscious of it without letting it affect me too much, (although if I'm sleep deprived that goes out the window)
2. The weight loss. The equivalent of 2x2 litre bottles of water less hanging in my harness since new year is bound to make a difference.
3. The yoga (much as some don't consider this training.) Partly because of the increased flexibility but also I think because my body awareness is better and I'm making subtle adjustments that improve efficiency. Hard to quantify this but I can feel it when climbing.
4. When I do train I'm motivated and try really hard, rather than doing it because it's on a plan. I'm not sure I'm capable of following one anyway, too many things get in the way including can'tbearseditis.

Really good insights here. 

All the training in the world won't make you a better climber if you still can't use what you learn properly. (Numbers 1 and 3)
Body composition matters (Number 2) (no matter how much I wish it didn't)
The best of intentions mean nothing without follow-through. (Number 4)


Nick S

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7 routes including RP'd The Racing Line whilst 'just' putting the clips up, and flashing 2 7b's, Nihil and Shape Shifter (given 7c in the guide but it's not).

You neglected to mention flashing the 7bs! You total beast. Got any interest in Trance Mission and/or any of the other the link ups on that wall?

Fiend

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STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Outdoor trad @ Elgol, 2 warm-ups, 2 big leads - great, did a couple of brilliant routes, one of which was pretty intimidating.
T - Rest.
W - Outdoor bouldering @ Craigmaddie, easy circuit - mediocre, didn't do much and elbow was sore from being careless.
T - Nothing - suck.
F - Weight session, strength-orientated sets - good, did some heavy weights, no motivation for CV afterwards tho.
S - Indoor routes @ Ratho, mid-grade mileage and a few falls - fine, did okay, stamina still bad but not lost too much wall fitness, falls okay but should do more.
S - 6 mile walk for charity - good, legs and everything aching after Fri, kept a good pace and good active rest.

Weight - 11 stone 12 (fuck this kg bollox).

Decent week. Last bit of proper trad for a while was good, finally feel like I am climbing with confidence. First gym and wall sessions for ages were fine, although I can see a big struggle to motivate myself to do CV after weights, and I need to do more falls per session indoors. Weight is holding steady.

shark

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Attain consistent climber's lifestyle;

Something like this?

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=362576863808495&set=a.270388289694020.62421.178411122225071&type=1&theater


Duncan Disorderly

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iain

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You neglected to mention flashing the 7bs!
I was a bit embarrassed at how well things had gone ...

Got any interest in Trance Mission and/or any of the other the link ups on that wall?
Absolutely, although I'd need to do Info Freako first. Tried to have a quick look on Saturday but I'd run out of skin and energy.

Muenchener

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STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Stressful life circumstances brought about a climbing-free week. Probably does no harm to have one of those once in a while, & decided belatedly to keep up my posting record on here anyway.

M:
T: Alpine approach training: 25 mins step-ups w/heavy rucksack
W:
T: bike to work 25km
F:
S, S: family camping weekend in the mountains with friends & kids. Hiking w/18kg rucksack full of food & camping kit is good Alpine Approach Training.

 

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