[shark]

11.2-4

M-Noon. Bolton 1x7kg Reps Finger warmup then experimented with Max Weighted Hangs. C&J 5x50kg Frenchie style bicep curls. Deadlifts 1x120 1x130lifted it but not straightened out 120 fail rest then 120kg. 1 x 4power pull ups + 3 frenchies
T.
W.
T. Malham. Rainy, muggy, greasy, midgy. Few goes on Oak. Tweaked beta but otherwise a fairly unpleasant session
F
S. Ratho YCS finals. AM sneaked in 3 x weighted hangs on BM and then later routes 1x6b 2x6c+ 2x7a, 2x7a (failing high up on both) 
S.

Had a re-test at Uni on the InBody 720 on Friday. Weighed in at 72.2kg and 8.7% body fat. There is a lot of info on the readout and noticed a meaningful diffrence between the weight of my right leg and left leg. Turned out my left femur (and consequently left leg) is 2cm longer than the right. I've never noticed this and neither have the numerous physio's I've seen over the years. I suspect its been a contributory factor in my wonky back.

Thurs at Malham despite being rubbish gave me an opportunity for a subtle reworking of the set up moves for the throw which might prove to be a game changer.

YCS was mentally busy. Good route setting and a great venue. Poppy achieved her goal of not coming last  and Tom got 5th in his category but it could have sooo easily been 3rd. He was a bit gutted aqt the time but seems super psyched today and will probably drop rugby (not had a good season) to concentrate on climbing 

[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Ditto
Wednesday - Indoor, same as.
Thursday - Nowt
Friday - Sunday - Back in the u.k. for a wedding. Only  climbing action is some trees with the nephew and I'm only using him for cover so I don't look bad. Bored on eurostar.....

Next weeks looking good lack of work wise, just got to check the weather.

[tommytwotone]

STG: GNR in under 1h 58m 18secs
LTG: Font 7b

Bit of a mixed / scrappy week for me.

M: nowt, had to wait in for mattress delivery - 12 noon - 5pm ended up being 7.45pm! 
T: hilly 10k run on lunch in 48min 18secs, followed by beers x lots watching England v Ukraine.
W: up at 5:30am for 6:30am work systems go-live. Long day.
T: Nowt, mate came up for Friday's ODI so we drank some beer / played some pool.
F: ODI rained off = all day drinking session.
S: Writeoff.
S: 10k in 49min 30secs after a lie-in.

Good to get a few miles in what I knew was going to be a knackering, boozy week. Beer abstinence starts now as the next big thing I've got is the Eccup 10 mile on 15th July.

[csl]

Goals for June
Onsight E5
Onsight 7a done
RP 7c done
18.20 5km

Mon- kilnsey - did comedy first go of the day! First 7c. Pleased! Then tried dominatrix.
Tue- kilnsey - tried dominatrix again then sacked it and put the clips in sticky wicket. Lots of silly mistakes cost me a couple of RP's
Wed- sticky wicket first go of the day, felt like it could be 7b+?! Worlds in collision e4 flash On mates gear. Highway 395 Onsight.
Thur- malham - Brooklyn girls Onsight, and Frankenstein after failing to flash a couple of months ago. Nice to onsight a 7a at malham.
Fri- Leeds wall - bouldering. Onsighted up to v5. Then routes ticked a 7a+. Tried some 7c-8a stuff. Had been feeling a bit weaker so good to do some hard moves. 7c felt ok but could only link tiny sections of the 8a. some core
Sat- rest- should have got up for parkrun!
Sun- almscliff. Big 3 day! O/s wall of horrors and big greeny but fell off western front. Was greasy in the sun and I can't jam!

[cheque]

subtle reworking of the set up moves for the throw which might prove to be a game changer.

Sounds promising. That certainly looks like a crucial section of the route.

M- Swiss ball program week 9. Managed it all but with fairly long rests inbetween.
T- Rest.
W- Colehill Quarry. Onsighting up to 6b+. Didn't achieve goal of taking leader falls- should have got on harder routes but good to get onsight mileage done.
T- Shoulder press/ overhead squats.
F- Rest.
S-Willersley. Not psyched to go but turned out to be a better venue than I anticipated. Fun three-star punterage.
S- First attempt at deadlifting. Using UKB-approved method of 5 reps before adding another 10kg made it up to 75kg (1.25 x bodyweight) which is all the all I can fit on my bar due to my weights being largely bulky light vinyl ones. Felt like I could lift more.

STG- Take leader falls, but more weights.

[shark]

subtle reworking of the set up moves for the throw which might prove to be a game changer.

Sounds promising. That certainly looks like a crucial section of the route.

Yes it's a stopper for me. This new way means I keep my feet lower for 2 moves so dont use so much burl and also I can put my outside right foot up which means its a more static move to the horn than the front-on method I was using.

Also now that I have discovered my right leg is 2cms shorter I can play the shortarse/morpho card.   

[nai]

goals - E4, 8a, 10 (2 done) x7 lime blocs (optimistically set during good weather when it all seemed so feasible)

M - nowt (not by choice)
T - Tor - got on The Ring of Fire, worked then linked post-crux sidepull to top first go up (on TR) & floor through crux 3rd go.  Partner had a better way of doing crux than my way so need to investigate that and fine tune clips but will be starting RPs next session.
w - rest
T - Rubicon & Tor bouldering, not very good.
F - garage 3x4 2mins on, 3 mins off, 6 mins rest. Failed set 10 -5s, 11 -18s, 12 - 38s, 5k run.
s - 5k run (visiting mum's in flatlands, a whole 5mins faster than same distance in Sheffield!)
S - garage 4x4 60s on, 30s off, 2 mins rest. Failed sets 12 -5s, 15 - 5s, 16 -15s. Rested 5 mins & did 4x60s on, 40s off quite easily

A question, Power Clubbers, I feel like I have been failing in the latter stages of my foot-on-campussing partly because of being pumped (obviously) but also because I am getting so exhausted, actually finding myself breathing heavy even though I'm barely moving.  Obviously one answer is get fitter, I do keep neglecting going running so it's been a prod to do that.  But what of recovery times between sets, 2 minutes isn't enough to recover my breath fully between a set of four 60on/30off so I'm starting sets 3&4 not only increasingly pumped (expected) but also still physically tired.
Is it better to lengthen the inter-set time to allow more recovery for the next bout of exercise which may target the forearms better, or to keep it lower thus climbing pumped & tired?
E.g. two scenarios that have the same overall rest time, which is best?
4x 60s on, 15s off, rest 3 mins, repeat x 4
or
4x 60s on, 30s off, rest 2 mins, repeat x4 failing on later reps as Sunday above

[cheque]

STG- Take leader falls, but more weights.

That was meant to say buy more weights. I also did repeaters on the Beastmaker this afternoon but forgot to mention it earlier. I think I was still dizzy from the deadlifting.

my right leg is 2cms shorter I can play the shortarse/morpho card.   

Or half of it at least. 

[shark]

Sun: abandoned fingerboard session, felt potentially tweaky ... too soon after Friday?

Easy to get carried away if you've hit PB's and get injured.

Also Eve Lopez recommends recovery period for max stregth work as 48-72hours. Anything less could be compromising gains. It your sessions were fri night then sun morning it would be less than 48 hours.

[wsmith]

Week 24 of plan.

M.
T. Warwick. 30min campus board - laddering on small rungs. 40min bouldering. Routes- 3x doubles and 2x triples on 7c,7b+ and 7bs. Felt fit.
W. Garage. 40 min bouldering. Ancap - 2x6 reps of 16 move circuit. Rep rest reduced to 1min 20. Set rest 4min. Did surprisingly well considering the reduced rep rest.
T. 20min run
F. FB. 2x5 repeaters. Felt ok but fingers quite stiff.
S. Northampton. Long routes session - did the 8a there after falling off it on previous sessions. Some 7c+/c/b+ routes. Fell on some but good on others. 3x doubles to finish off but was boxed so had to drop the grades.
S. Garage. Aerocap - 4x 20,10s.

Was hoping to get out over the weekend but didnt happen. Good week though. Fingers/wrist/shoulders all starting to feel slightly tweaky and need some rest so will try to take it a bit easier next week and then ive got a weeks forced rest after that.

[wsmith]

Is it better to lengthen the inter-set time to allow more recovery for the next bout of exercise which may target the forearms better, or to keep it lower thus climbing pumped & tired?
E.g. two scenarios that have the same overall rest time, which is best?
4x 60s on, 15s off, rest 3 mins, repeat x 4
or
4x 60s on, 30s off, rest 2 mins, repeat x4 failing on later reps as Sunday above

I would think the first scenario is better. That way each set is effectively 4 mins of of fairly continuous contraction, possibly being closer to simulating the time spent on a route. The longer rest between each set allows time to recover and give the next set a better quality effort. You should be failing on the last reps.

That said, dont get hung up on getting rest/work times perfect.

Theres my 2 unscientific pence.

[duncan]

Sun- almscliff. Big 3 day! O/s wall of horrors and big greeny but fell off western front. Was greasy in the sun and I can't jam!

That's a good day but WF is much the easiest of the three! If you can jam.

Goals for June
Onsight E5

If you can onsight BG then it might be worth giving Orchrist a go (no jamming required).  Take two good belayers.


STG - rehab. shoulder; 700m of 6c in Switzerland
MTG - 7b, E5.

M - Short hill run
T - Legs
W - Short hill run
T -
F -
S - Dancing Ledge: teaching beginners; soloed various easy stuff in the beginner's area.
S - Longer hill run

+ Cuff, scapular stabilisers, thoracic spine stuff most days

Shoulder felt weak and vulnerable but not too sore...  onwards and upwards.

[nai]

Sun- almscliff. Big 3 day! O/s wall of horrors and big greeny but fell off western front. Was greasy in the sun and I can't jam!

That's a good day but WF is much the easiest of the three! If you can jam.

Good day but also a great week, big ticks at Malham & Kilnsey, effort.

[tomtom]

Nothing this week.. Rain and lots of work

Nothing for the next two weeks either.. Away with work. At least it's 27 degrees here though and the guy I'm staying with is a fitness person, so I expect to return not too much fatter - given the enevitable cycling, running etc.. I'll be dragged into

[Nibile]

Crucial week.

Mon. Board, isolation moves and good links on projects. Quite strong.
Tue. Board, as above. Very weak.
Wed. Deadlifts. Yessss! 130 kg, technique not bad. Can improve!!!
Thu. Went to the boulders to get a stashed pad back, and should have done nothing but that. 37 degrees. Horrible.
Fri. Active rest. Climbing class.
Sat. Rest. Played bass a lot though.
Sun. Bouldering with a big group of friends and beginners. Climbed a lot.

So, I need to be smart. My left wrist is very sore. I struggle at falling asleep at night and I'm overally very tired. Overtraining? I need to rest and change. Weights could be the best option. Too hot to train on the board, 29 degrees on plastic is like playing on a cheese grater. Also, climbing outside is not an option, unless I resolve to take out rope and harness.

[tommytwotone]

So, I need to be smart. My left wrist is very sore. I struggle at falling asleep at night and I'm overally very tired. Overtraining? I need to rest and change. Weights could be the best option. Too hot to train on the board, 29 degrees on plastic is like playing on a cheese grater. Also, climbing outside is not an option, unless I resolve to take out rope and harness.

Do you do much running Nibs? That's my normal respite when it gets too hot / humid for me (which is anything in double figures!).

[Nibile]

I used to. As always I got obsessed with it and it became a problem... Teamed with a not so small eating disorder...
When I finally managed to stop running (a story I'll tell sooner or later) it was a great relief. Still now I really want to avoid it. I'll just try to take it easy. One week off and then some weights should see me fine...
But thanks for your post!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always.

M-W: Nuttin, sore foot raised up, sat on the sofa, watching football 
T: Foot still sore but threw caution to the wind and went to the Works - Warmed up with 1 foot bouldering and easy monkeying around, 1 foot on campusssing 6 x 50moves @ 4mins max rest.
F: Nuttin, sore foot raised up, sat on the sofa.
S: Walked a bit on foot - getting better.
S: Managed to get climbing shoe on so had a board session - Good hard session. Din't do myself any favours tho as foot's fucked today 

Arse! Off the antibiotics and no sign of infection but just gotta take it easy... Going stir crazy!

This week: Fuck knows!

:D

[James Yeah]

Joining in as i've started training again.   I was slightly thrown by the fact it says 18-24th of April though.

Goals - Six pack (gaaaaaaay) and boulder 7a outdoors as well as lead 7a outdoors.

Current weight 158lbs and 6ft tall.

Mon - P09X - Core Synergistic - 1 Hour.
Tue - P90X - Back and Biceps + Ab ripper - 1 Hour 20 mins.
Wed - Boulder Central. Felt a bit weak after Tuesdays P90x. V1-2 warm up. A few v3's and v4's. Felt destroyed.
Thur - Rest Day.
Fri -  Insanity Asylum - Speed and Agility Cardio- 1 Hour.
Sat - P90X - Chest and Back + Ab ripper session. 1 hour 20 mins
Sun - Boulder Central. - v1-2 warm ups. Few v3,4,5 and 1 v6 - 3 Hours climbing - Felt very tired after.

Cut my eating habits to only include healthy food and trying to get enough protein into my diet to help my muscles (or lack therefore)

[fried]

Joining in as i've started training again.   I was slightly thrown by the fact it says 18-24th of April though.

This sometimes happens if I start the thread after a long, long Sunday lunch. Shark?

[shark]

Joining in as i've started training again.   I was slightly thrown by the fact it says 18-24th of April though.

This sometimes happens if I start the thread after a long, long Sunday lunch. Shark?

 

[Duma]

 
and I've aquired a minging sore throat over the weekend.

67kg though.
physio appt on wed.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (currently 171)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (3/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Wtd Hangs in AM(248# total wt), Run 3mi PM
Tuesday - Run 3mi PM
Wednesday - ARC, 3mi run, Michael Franti Concert
Thursday -  4x Wtd Hangs in AM (255# total wt), Run 4mi PM (hungover and short on sleep meant not the best morning session)
Friday - Boulder in Hatcher Pass - put up/climbed 7 new problems up to 7C+, plus figured out all the moves on a new 8A which should go down in 1-2 sessions!! (Check out the blog www.akclimber.com)
Saturday - Rest - helping in laws move, I guess that counts as a lifting workout  
Sunday - 6mi run

I'm really feeling stronger and stronger over the last 3 weeks.  Only major change is starting Ms. Lopez's FB training and getting outside regularly.

Another great week! Psyched to get out even though tons of in-laws in town.

[iain]

Some good things to read this week, and hope folk get their injuries sorted.

STG: More E4 onsights.
MTG: Had a look, so now try Infinite Gravity.

Weight: 62.1kg Monday morning, 0.7 is a lot to drop over the previous week but I reckon there was some leftover from all the meals out. I'd still like to average 62kg for a week, but I think I need to be more focused for a few weeks to make this happen.

M: BM max sloper hangs and strength work. Felt good.
T: 3x4min repeater sets on 1st joint half crimp. Almost completed the full set on this hold which is a big improvement.
W: BM max sloper hangs and strength work. Felt very good.
T: Started to warm up for repeater sets but felt weak and tired so stopped.
F: BM max sloper hangs and strength work. Weaker than previous sessions but still good.
S: Weather not playing for trad so wound up on Portland. Glad I did as had a great day in good conditions. 7 routes including RP'd The Racing Line whilst 'just' putting the clips up, and flashing 2 7b's, Nihil and Shape Shifter (given 7c in the guide but it's not).
S: Much needed rest turned into an amble along the swanage cliffs and an impromptu look at Blacker's Hole from the top. Couldn't see much but at least I know where to go.

Saturday was a bit of a landmark for me, not the highest grades but the quantity and consistency is new. I have objectively improved loads this year and I've been thinking about why I've seen improvement despite my lack of a 'structured' training program. The conclusions I've come to are that's it's all about the 'soft' training:

1. The fuzzy mental stuff. I'm much better at climbing without expectation but still being able to try really hard when it matters, a personally overlooked skill. (Still got a long way to go though.) I'm also dealing with the fear far better than I ever have, conscious of it without letting it affect me too much, (although if I'm sleep deprived that goes out the window)
2. The weight loss. The equivalent of 2x2 litre bottles of water less hanging in my harness since new year is bound to make a difference.
3. The yoga (much as some don't consider this training.) Partly because of the increased flexibility but also I think because my body awareness is better and I'm making subtle adjustments that improve efficiency. Hard to quantify this but I can feel it when climbing.
4. When I do train I'm motivated and try really hard, rather than doing it because it's on a plan. I'm not sure I'm capable of following one anyway, too many things get in the way including can'tbearseditis.

Aim for this week, that the weather is good enough to get on trad 

[csl]

Cheers duncan and nai! Feels good to be getting some consistency in my climbing. I got on an E5 yesterday and came close to the Onsight but fell stupidly and got it second go. Feel like if I keep getting on them I should get one Onsight soon.